ballitch

this one is better........ IMG_0104_1.bmp

maybe here is the motor pic.... IMG_0104.bmp

i wanted to use the stock e-brake setup so i went XT6 stuff, however im still having a difficul time locating new wheel bearings for the darn knuckles. every parts store i go to shows me some kind of bearing that i didnt pull out of the knuckle......was there a bearing revision or something? i tried searching here and nabisco and xt6.net and nothing really came up. all those pics were the rear, that was relatively easy and straight forward once i got the rear discs turned and threw some new brake pads on them. if you know of anyone that knows anyting about the wheel bearing situation im having please tell me. ~Josh~

ya...there is sometihng about having most of your low end just above idle......that and the older cars weigh 800lbs less than the newer cars. ~Josh~

and again...

here they are if i did everything right.... IMG_0102.bmp IMG_0103.bmp

well alot of us still want ot use the stock D/R tranny with the really great low range, but it cant handle much more power than a EJ22 or EJ25. unless you go to a different tranny then your kinda stuck in a way. ~Josh~

if i remember correctly, the wrx struts and springs are a little shorter than the legacys struts and springs. so you might need an alignment after you put these in, but one benefit is the spring/strut reaction time is faster than the legacy stuff. ~Josh~

so what your tryin to say is extra effort = shredded gears? i am going to run RWD this summer just to see what all the hubbub is about, i know i dont have enough traction in FWD so we'll see how it fares. im just going to have to remember to go easy on the go peddle, save me form getting a used tranny, but that would be one heck of an excuse to get a rebuilt tranny witha front LSD........... ~Josh~

you want the 2.0 litre sti motor? isnt that a 2.5 litre after a certain year? but knowing the good ole' U.S.A, we got the shaft on that also. do you have a right hand drive car? if so, you could buy a front clip off of ebay for a grand and a half and there is all the stuff you need right there for this swap. ~Josh~

take the starter off. that seems to help me alot. ~Josh~

on your next oil change, put in one quart of ATF and run it for 50 miles or so on the freeway at high speeds, like 70+. after that, change it and add one quart of rislone or mmo in place of one quart of oil, repeat a couple times until the tick subsides or goes away. if it goes away, stay true to the oil changes but every 3-6 months or so, revamp it with a quart of ATF. but dont run atf through your system for too long, it will eat seals and could damage bearings also. ~Josh~

if i remember correctly, and i may not, the only legacy to get a 3.90 VLSD was the 1991 legacy turbo. now, other cars do have the VLSD (WRX, SVX, some legacys, and some imprezas) but that ratio is 4.11, and i dont know if you can swap the ring and pinion gears from a 4.11 VLSD into our 3.90 diff's. ~Josh~

ya do yourself a favor and get a lightweight one, not the underdriven one though, look on ebay, you'll find one. ~Josh~

lots of people have done this swap. you are going to need the wire harness, the motor obviously, the exhaust up/down pipes, a turbo header(from your other car), the turbo engine crossmember, and maybe some other things im missing. but anyway, you will have to strip down the turbo wire harness to get only the "motor specific" wires used to make the engine run. people have integrated wire harnesses but im not a fan, plus if you want to go back to stock, you just pull your turbo wire harness out of the car, but the normal motor back in and hook up all the non-turbo wires, exhaust etc...etc.. if you try over at nasioc.com, or bbs.legacycentral.net, you will find lots of info over on those two sites. now for a crazy idea.......instead of just swapping motors, but some EJ25 heads on your 2.2 turbo block and use the thick OEM head gasket, the turbo headgasket, and then turn up the boost. that combo will net you about a 7.5:1 CR and be really boost friendly. ~Josh~

sounds awesome man, have fun with that harness, i know i did. dont feel like your going slow on your conversion, it took me 4 1/2 months from start to finish. and thats when i had 2 weeks off from work to do nothing but work on the car for 14 hours a day. needless to say, i had no life, and was tired beyond belief.....not to mention....i didnt get much done....too busy figuring out if i was screwing up or not. ~Josh~

the EJ22 and EJ25 flywheels are the same. , use the intake manifold that matches your heads i.e. EJ22=EJ22 intake mani. ; EJ25=EJ25 intake mani. you get the picture. ~Josh~

the thing i am interested about is how it detects power around corners, and what the power "delivery" is like. is it gradual, or is it on and off like an lsd? ~Josh~

you can use the XT6 pressure plate just fine with your stock EA82 flywheel, but get it resurfaced. also, you can use the XT6 clutch disk. if you think you might have a problem with the throwout bearing being too big, use the XT6 throwout bearing. i had my flywheel turned to XT6 spec, and it is just fine for offroading, but then again i do have more under the hood than stock. keep in mind that the turbo cars, the 4WD cars, and the XT6 all share the same clutch disk. the only cars that are different are the 2WD cars, they have the 200mm disk, while the good ones are 225mm. ~Josh~

i would think that for rock crawling you would gain little "finger" bits of tire gripping more surface area, but since you dont do too much of that i would say do it anyway. i really havent noticed a difference except in the wet. doesnt les schwab do it for free when you buy new tires from them? ~Josh~

Oh, i forgot to say this about the radiator choices. apparently a 1990-1992 legacy radiator has the same bottom mounting points as the EA82 radiators, but the EJ22 rad. is about an inch or so taller. and the radiator bungs are an inch or so off to one side, kinda staggered in comparison to the EA82 rad. but it will fit. but i have been using my EA rad. on my EJ22 for about 6 months now. as long as its clean and not plugged, and you mount two fans on it you should be just fine. i only am using one right now and it seems to be working fine, but that other fan helps so much. when the two fans did kick on, they were only on for about 30-45 seconds before they cooled the coolant enough to shut off. ~Josh~

sounds like a good day to me!!!

as far as radiator hoses, i think anyone is probably as good as anyone elses rad. hose, but you can buy the OEM one if you want, but i dont think its necessary. ~Josh~

i say fix your HG. and while your at it, get the "thin" HG form a dealership, they will know which one is the thin one, it will raise your compression a bit. only by about .3 or so, not enough to notice a difference, or change in fuel economy, but it will have a tiny bit more power, like 1-2 hp. but the gaskets cost pretty much the same amount, and you might as well get an extra pony or two out of the deal. ~Josh~

looks pretty good to me....my EA gas pedal worked fine, and my car was carb'd, so if you know for a fact that your throttle cable is a short one, then you might need the EJ gas pedal and cable. but it seems like that was just an urban legend. and yes all of us EJ converts have been "slacking' in a way, but i was in such a hurry, i didnt take pictures, that and i didnt have a digi camera. and one more thing, i didnt upgrade my cars fuel lines to EFI grade hose. if anyone can tell me a good reason why i should i might, but so far it seems to be working fine......now stainless steel braided fuel lines would be the shiznit, no worries about damaged fuel lines at all. AND FO GODS SAKE!!!!!! USE THE EJ STYLE EXHAUST!!!!!! IF NOT YOUR TOP END WILL SUCK BECAUSE THAT SMALL DIA. PIPE WILL CHOKE YOUR CAR TO NO END.............JUST LIKE MINE ~Josh~