970subaru

andyjo, you should cut a profile on the front fenders to bend some tube for, then cut out your rockers replace them with some square tube or some 1/4 slices of big pipe, and connect it all up and then into a rear bumper to match your front. that would be SLICK. also I like the new addition but it would be cool to make it taller and more pre runner looking. damn I need to start cutting up my legacy. there was a 1 ton dodge for sale near me for $500 that would have been a good axle donor, weld up the center diff and do a divorced toyota case etc...

it needs 33's!!! are you going to weld up the rear diff?

did you drain the oil yet? if not, drain it through a cheesecloth or fine metal screen to look for some metal bits.

what about using a rally type material such as 1/2" HDPE or 1/4" 6061 aluminum? or is slide-ability a concern so you want steel? HDPE would slide pretty well and is cheap at a plastic shop. easy to work with also

why not swap a 22re into a subaru?

ej swap seems like a lot of work for ej18. unless its just for reliability/mileage/fuel injection

I think thats what he was saying.

sounds cool. but you need to think about putting a lot of squeeze on that motor if you want to stay NA. throw a phase 1 ej25 shortblock in the ej22e heads for about 10.8:1. you may also be able to use a phase II shortblock for even more, like mid 11's. but I am not sure if the valves will clear the pistons. the best NA option would be a SOHC phase II ej25 with the 12.5:1 pistons, mild porting and some cobb cams. well over 200hp. I am looking for an ea81 hatch to put my ej25/22e motor in, it will RIP. it will get some delta cams and a borla in the process, maybe an SAFC too. maybe think about doing some porting on your throttle body, and definitely do NOT run the coolant lines through the throttle body. just run the block line straight to the IAC. I am interested to see how that AEM does for you, but the ej22e is no powerhouse by itself. pushing 2400lbs it will be peppy though. Good luck! also if you dont mind can you post your suspension setup?

pics? is it going to be centered?

I have no idea if the turbo is ok for your motor, but I seriously doubt that the turbines spinning in the oppsite direction will be an issue. exhaust goes out and air goes in on all motors right?

the 200 seems to be the mixer of choice for 4cyl turbo apps. I dont like how it has a 90 degree elbow on it though, I will probably use a 225 if I decide to go propane on my next motor. your hatch is MEAN looking. got any detail pics of the cage IE in cab, and some of the mounting points?

if you can afford it definitely do it. one of the biggest ways cryo helps is in thermal expansion, which is a huge factor in heads cracking. at least do the pistons, its like $5 a piston. I think you have to do them before you get them coated.

are there any R&P's that will swap into a subaru trans? like 4.44 R-160's? seems there is just no option for using the trans's front diff that is keeping with the spirit of offroading subarus that is cheap as hell and light. one-offing a custom gear set is going to be BIG $$$$$. even to machine it yourself is an insane amount of work and takes no small amount of design skills. would there be any way to combine different gear sets out of different D/R trans'? for the most capable cheapest wheeler, do what my friend did, and has $1500 or so in his truck, not sure exactly $400 for a rusty '81 toyota with carb problems $50 used good carb used dual transfer case setup $250 welded the rear $50 chevy rear springs + scrap metal rears up front free + scrap metal $100 used 33" AT's not sure how much all else he spent and on what but damn, that truck never ceases to amaze me. it needs new steering though. I want to put a ea81 wagon on toyota axles and a toyota transfer case and keep the weight down around 2500lbs. doable I think...

does anyone here run with a welded front diff? seems like it will be awfully hard on everything else and make steering a biatch. not to mention if it breaks there goes a transmission. not like they are expensive but thats a lot of work.

if you havent found one yet, blackbart(frank) in PA has several for sale. good guy, done lots of business with him.

heres a thread I made a while back http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=27324

I have tried emailing the sellers of these things but they never get back to me. I want to try coilover sleeves again, before I had some TOM racing ones(yeah, I dont know either) but they were 400 and 500lb. way too stiff for me. I want some around 250. those honda ones are wicked cheap even with the outrageous shipping cost! you have to wonder at the quality for stuff that cheap.

I'm a newb here and even I can tell you... do some reading!! do some searching!

there are so many of those same car in the PNW(color, condition, trans, probaly miles too) that it probably feels good to cut them up. sick of seeing em. lol

would make a good mold for a wicked fiberglass center console:headbang:

free, hell, do it. if the bends remotely match up to stock, all you will have to do is get the brackets sorted and find a way to hook it to the stock header. the WRX exhaust makes a good amount of difference on a legacy so chances are it will on a ea car. your stock exhaust is what, like 1.5"? probably cost $70 or so to get the muffler shop to do it up.

cnc lathe? a mill isnt going to be the best thing to make a pulley. the chunk of aluminum needed for a pulley isnt going to be cheap either. I would draw a pulley up on CAD for you but I dont have access to a pulley that is off the car for the critical measurements like keyway, crank diameter, offset, etc. I do have a micrometer set and taking a cad class right now so if someone near here wants to loan me a pulley... I'm all about handbuilt parts, and if their CNC'd all the better. maybe you could make them underdrive and silly light!

is it on a turbo car? if so go bigger than a WRX exhaust unless you are getting it for free or close. its only 2.25" good for NA not turbo.

ive always thought cutting off the roof over the trunk looks real cool on the wagons. loose all the glass and sheetmetal that you dare. maybe inboard some tractor spotlights for headlights into the grille kinda like a narrow front end baja bug? cut the crap out of the fenders for whatever tires you want weld up the rear roll bar?

there are issues with the cam sensor, the DOHC heads read differently than the SOHC heads. there may also be differences in the TPS and different size injectors. I believe using a SOHC shortblock(phase II) will bump up the compression on the motor, so you could consider that.