lmdew

Most likely the starter contacts. Check the voltage drop at the starter and then down stream at the starter motor. Corrosion or pitted contacts in the starter solinoid.

There is a little bypass hose off the water pump as well. Take a good look up at the pump and you can see the leak.

Check the brake and clutch switches. I've had a few that the bumper on the bracket comes out and then the switch goes right through the hole. The cruise unit on the Impreza is right below the AC Dryer. If you have 2 cables going to the throttle body, its there.

In the rust belt if you have done that much work, I'd replace both.

Did you change the clearance? As they sit they will bleed down and it take a while for them to pump back up. Give it time, good 5-30 oil will help.

Axle to stub shaft is held together by a roll pin, just drive it out. The stub shaft to trans is held in with a circle clip, just make sure its there and in good condition and then pop it back in. Yes the axles are the same.

It would help with the YR and Model. The Legacy pumps are under an oval cover in the trunk or under the rear seat. The older DL... are under the body back by the tank. If you pull the fill cap and have someone turn on the key the pump will run until it builds pressure. The only sure way to check the output of the pump is to install a pressure gauge and check the flow rate. Is the CEL on?

Brake, clutch switches. You are putting a Legacy unit into a Impreza/Forster. I believe the Impreza or Forster units are different. I know my 98 OBS mouts the Cruise unit on the passenger frame rail in the engine compartment.

There is a 2 blade connector that is on the RH side of the steering column, its black. It goes to the key lock release coil, it has to be energized to release the key so it will go all the way to the off position. Is your key in the off position?

Get a 97 - 99 Outback with a bad 2.5 engine and have a 95 2.2 engine installed. The 5 sp transmission is a much better option as most folks do not maintain the autos as they should and then the can't figure out why the trans failed at 140K when they have never changed the fluid. If you want to keep the 2.5, motor get a 2002 or later. The 3.0 are good solid motors as well and gas mileage will be about the same. 96-99 bodies and interior room are all about the same. Visit you local dealer and check some of them out then have your contacts go hunting for what you want.

The cam gear may be even harder. Soak it good with PB Blaster or Croil. If you lucky, the holes in the pulley are threaded and you can make a puller. If not you can tap the holes. Or very carefully put two large blade flat screw drivers behind the rim and work it out just a little, then tap it back. Keep on doing this until you break the rust free. Understand the crank seal is right behind the crank gear. I've seen the trashed and a new Oil pump needed.

Search the USMB, you can do the gear without dropping the transmission, but its not a easy job!

You can move the crank and the cams to line the timing up you are not spinning at 3000 RPM as you would be going down the road. If you are turning things by hand and it locks up, STOP and turn it the other way. Put the crank in position, then the cams. Install the new idler pulleys, the new belt and then the toothed idler. Release the tensioner, then rotate the engine in the normal direction, at least 720 degrees and recheck the timing marks on the gears.

Yes Interference Yes most likely bent valves, but it would not hurt to check it a little further and see what the cause was. The Ebay Kits belts and pulleys are good. The only way to tell how much damage there is would be to put it back together and do a compression - leak down check or pull it apart. How many miles on the car?

PCB, they are easy to take apart to change the bulbs, disconnect the cable from the Passenger side heater control, much easier than pulling the cable out of the unit. Search the board for lots of good info on replacing the bulbs. If you need a good replacement let me know I have several spares.

I have not used it, but it looks promising and Cheap! http://www.nmvtis.gov/nmvtis_consumers.html

I have a spare replacement remote. I purchased 4 of them off Ebay and only used 2 so far. $25 shipped. I put one of these in on a 96 GT and it needed the additional Driver's door actuator installed. The car did not come with the electric door lock on the drivers door. You might want to check under your door panel and see if that is the case.

Should be fine!

No Heat = Air in the coolant system. Search Burp and you should find lots of info. Make sure you have a good clamp and your radiator cap is allowing pressure to vent when necessary. Look in you coolant overflow bottle, black oil stuff = HG leaking!

Go used!

Just look at it from the bottom, no need to pull the timing covers. Every one I have seen leaking you can see from the bottom, it will run back towards the front drivers side corner of the oil pan. If you have good nice green coolant in the system you should see the leak.

The better halfs cam sensor is going out. I'm in Milwaukkee but will be heading to Madison this afternoon. If you have a spare please let me know. 98 Outback with a 95 2.2 so it has the cam sensor that has the connector right at the sensor. Got one from a friends Subaru so I'm back on the road, Thanks!

Take a look at the bottom of the water pump to engine block area, it sounds like a slow leak and sometimes the water pump seal starts leaking and you will see it. Have you replaced the coolant hoses? If they are original, I'd at least take spares along with me. Have fun on the trip!

Sounds like the switch contacts. I'd clean them or replace the sw.

Could be air in the system. Put it on jacks and have someone step on the brake for you, can you turn the wheel? If so, you are not getting pressure to the caliper or its frozen solid. I'd start with a good brake system flush. How many miles are on it?