lmdew

If you still have the covers off the TBelt take a picture of the timing marks.

Make sure you are using the tick mark in the back of the crank gear and not the arrow on the front. Do you have compression when turning it over by hand? Do you have Spark? Have you tried adding a cap full of gas to the intake?

yes, it sounds like a water pump leak. The water pump is driven by the timing belt, so depending on the milage you may be do for a timing belt and seals. Search here or check you tube, there is lots of good information available. Overheating a Subaru engine is bad! Hopefully you have not done major damage. Find a good Subaru Mechanic or USMB member close by to help you out.

Do you smell fuel in the exhaust? Could be you have a leaking injector and it's flooded.

Usually they are either good or failed. Might check the wiring and plug. When it does not start are you getting fuel and no spark?

Do you know if they were working when the eng&trans were in the RS? Speedo, I'd swap the sender from the old trans on to the RS Trans.

Love my 98 OBS, 326K 5sp and I get 28-29 mpg all the time.

FADE all the way to the front?

Is the temp gauge getting above the 1/2 way mark? The fans are independent and 2 speed on one or both. If the engine is hot a single fans comes on, if you have the AC on, both fans should come on. Is your AC Charge low?

Thanks, used is the way I'll go.

Repair this trans or replace it with a used one? UPAP trans are only $125 and not to hard to find, so I'm thinking replace the trans and then when I have more time I could split this one and see how bad things are inside.

I just picked up a 97 OBS project - 281K - Clutch was totally out, the center had broken out of the disk. A cheap clutch for sure - I put a good clutch in, the trans shifts fine, up and down but will not go into 4th. I have not checked the linkage yet. - The Trans input shaft did have a little play, but not bad for 281K I'm thinking a used trans,but thought I'd ask. Thanks, Larry

You can raise the engine with the mount nuts off or drive out the half shaft pin and slide it out a bit. I do a 6 point socket on a 3/8 universal and 6" extension. It usually works fine.

If you have any other engine maintenance to do, it's easier to pull the engine that drop the trans to do the clutch. Don't mess with the rear main, most of the time people that change it cause leaks.

Is the CEL on when it's running rough? I'd put it in the diagnostic mode and run it to see what comes up.

Dealer or junk yard. I often pull good ones in rust free CO. In OH they are most likely all like yours.

The half shaft slips into the Knuckle. Brake caliper, Brake Hose, Backing Plate, Hub and E-brake cable will do the trick.

I'd get a good look at your's, may be a picture. www.car-part.com from a rust free state will be much less. If your in no rush, I could get you one from Colorado for about 45 shipped.

X2 on Emily's points. a 2.2 swap is the way to go.

I've used the Grip Force Kits off of Ebay and have been happy. Other important things have been covered. Larry

Yes, I'd grab the E-brake cables as well and the brake lines coming off the body.

You can put a threaded insert in the lower starter hole and put a bolt in.

Sometimes it's just the socket contacts and bulb. I'd pull them and make sure you have good contact. You could also try the parking light switch on top of the steering column and see if they work.

Back probed the plug 11.5 volts on both sided of the control coil, = missing ground 11.5 volts on the input side of the fuel pump switched contact. I hit the yard today and got a couple of Subaru fuel pump relays, newer ones and plug one in. It started right up. Hopefully it is a solid fix. I believe the relay did it. 2nd day in a row with many start and stop cycles, has worked each time.

When it overheats, look for bubbles in the overflow tank and check and see if the heat is blowing cold. These are two signs of HG failure. HG can hide and usually happen under heavy loads at first. Are the fans coming on with higher temps?