Legacy777

Cool!! Glad you got it working. Send me pics, I'll host them for others to see.

Yeah I have an aluminum stock sized crank pulley.

Did they blead all the air out of the radiator when they serviced it? Did they replace the thermostat? It may be worth resetting the ECU. If it saw some very high temps, the long term fuel trim memory might have gotten screwed up.

No I didn't deal with ABS. With my experience on the cruise control computer, I'd say you'd probably have to swap computers.......however I haven't looked at the wiring to see how everything is wired up. I know the newer models have issues when people have done swaps, but I know ours are less complicated, so there may not be as big an issue.

Guess it would help if I typed the correct url Actually I'm more or less a backyard mechanic....I'm an engineer by day All the turbo legacies had the same ECU, so no you wouldn't have to swap ECU's. You will however have to deal with the same/similar wiring issues as I did. ie the neutral switch, at/mt identifier pin, reverse lights, shift lock, and cruise control. You'll probably also have to deal with abs as well. If you pickup a turbo legacy transmission, you won't have to deal with the rear diff or anything. You will still need a manual tranny drive line, transmission, trans crossmember, and other goodies. You'll basically need everything I did minus the rear suspension, rear diff, suspension, ECU, & gas tank.

Yes the computer will repeat ALL the codes stored in its memory until the key is switched off. So from your post, I'd say you have the following codes code 22 code 13 The computer should repeat all the codes, and not just one. I don't know what to tell you. Try pulling the EGI/TCU fuse, to erase the stored codes. Drive the car and see if any come back D-check If you have done the above procedure, you will likely wonder what the green T-shaped connectors are for. These are for a more active code reading procedure called D-check mode in the Subaru manuals. To perform D-check, start with both connectors disconnected, start the engine, allow it to warm up, then turn it off. Next, connect the test mode connectors (green T-shape). Turn ignition to ON position without turning on engine. At this point if the check engine light does not come on, it is faulty and must be fixed before continuing. Depress accelerator pedal to floor, return to half throttle and hold for two seconds, then release. Start the engine. Now the light can blink in two different ways. If everything checks out so far, it will blink to indicate a number 01, 02, 03, 04, 05, 06, 07, or 08. If a problem is already detected, it will blink according to the chart below. Either way, your next step will be to drive the car with the test mode connectors connected. You must drive over 7 mph for at least one minute, and shift up to 4th gear if you have a manual tranny. Now, either you will discover any trouble codes, or if you have none it will blink at a steady rate.

Look at these pics. You're going to really have to over fill it to get the crank whipping the oil http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/ej22t/2/

Have you read my swap info? www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/swap

It's not good.....however I don't know if it will damage the engine....

www.subarugenuineparts.com www.subaruparts.com www.1stsubaru.com

The impreza tranny would bolt up, but the gear ratios are probably different. Where is the tranny fluid coming through? Like where on the bell housing....bottom, side, top?

There should be a fuse holder under the hood near the passenger strut tower that you can temporarily insert a fuse to disable the awd. If the binding goes away, then your clutch packs probably could be replaced. Have you checked the trans fluid? Does it smell burnt or look brown? I'd change the tranny fluid and see if that helps.

The 5spd AWD system will deliver torque equally to the front and rear. If you provide enough torque to break the wheels loose, both the front and rear will peel out. With the AT AWD system, you'll likely get a faint front wheel spin, but the AWD system will start applying more torque to the rear wheels. It will continue to do so until front wheel slip is gone, or until torque split is 50/50. At that point, both front and rear wheels should spin, like the MT.

Does this happen only after the car has sit for a long period of time, like overnight? If you drive somewhere, turn the car off, come right back, do you also get the delay? Have you checked the transmission fluid level?

None of the bolts on the mid pipe with the second cat are integrated. They're just bolts. Cut 'em off, and just buy some stainless steel bolts and nuts at the hardward store.

moving to old gen side where this will probably have more response.

It's probably the throw out bearing.

I don't think you're reading the codes properly. It will repeat ALL the codes, not just the last or first one. D-check is a more "active" diagnostic mode. You must follow the instructions on my site and....yes you have to drive it around. The ECU will pull readings from the sensors to make sure they're operating properly. U-check just checks for previous codes in the ECU.

Are you talking about the front cat? it's in the header. So you'd have to replace the header. There is an intermidiate pipe from there to the mid pipe with the second cat. Which piece are you talking about?

here ya go http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=2442&page=1&pp=10&highlight=134a Like I said in the most recent post....I'd use PAG 100 oil instead of the esther 100 oil. Other then that, it should be good.

hardware problem....it's back up.

Sounds like your tranny is dead. It's probably going to have to be rebuilt. You could drop the pan and see if there's any metal chunks in the pan.

What ECU did you try to use? I bet all the pins for the ECU weren't the same, and that's why it's not working. You need an ECU I/O diagram for your old ECU, and one from the new car to compare that the pins are the same or not. If they're not, you'll need to rewire them. Last ditch effort. Put a resistor in the EGR circuit to trick the ECU. You'll have to check some manuals to see what the resistance of the EGR valve is, so you can use the correct resistor.

You really should have it professionally serviced. Unless you want to buy all the gauges and equipment to evacuate the system.

here's the scan from the factory manual on the test procedure. http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/coilpacktest.jpg