Turbone

Wow, wish I could make it :-\ I think your still to young to retire tho

Wouldnt I get a code if the coolant sensor wasnt working right? But thats fairly new also. I have about 15K on this engine and I have alot of new sensors on it. I havent checked resistance yet on the knock sensor. But the ECU is original, from 89. I have another available and might try a quick swap.

DrivingSports.com has live feed for your computer and some cell phones for the upcoming Rally America Round 5 on June 6th & 7th. Heres the thread from NASIOC. http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/announcement.php?f=14 And heres the direct link to the site. http://www.drivingsports.com/blog/live.html

Thanks, I was afraid of that :-\ I have a 89.5 and have never seen anything inside the dash that looked like a control unit, except for the ECU. If I'm going to be upgrading my injectors, I probably need to get another ECU. I'm running rich, even at idle. I've replaced the knock sensor twice and still get a knock code.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Subaru-BRAT-1-8GL-1985-SUBARU-BRAT_W0QQitemZ110258585436QQihZ001QQcategoryZ6467QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem Not to much on Ebay right now either :-\

Gary, its the knock sensor unit. Its the brain or control unit for the knock sensor.

Well, my FSM says its in the instrument panel Has anyone ever come across it? For EA82T's only.

Its supposed to rain Wed Let me know if you want company

If I was in your situation, I would source another tranny. Your in a location where there should be some available and for cheap. A low mileage tranny should go for no more than $150. It might be cheaper and alot quicker. And I think I would be hitting up my neighbor for a "donation".

The front and rear diffs have to match, or you would have some serious binding issues. The SVX rear diff is a 3.54 ratio, but its close enough to a 3.7 its not a problem. Pretty sure its a R160. The basic difference of the 160 and the 180 is the 160 have stubs for the axles and the 180 dont. Not sure if you can use the guts of a rear diff in the front. But if your using a XT6 tranny with locking diff, you shouldnt need it. And the XT6 5spd has a ratio of 3.9, but you can swap out the 3.5 guts into the 3.9 case. Theres a write up in the USRM for the swap.

If its been like that for a while, its no good any more.

The main seal usually goes in easily, thats probably why its just a tad to far in. Its ok, but I would try (carefully) to even it up.

Happy B-Day buddy! Hope you have a good one

Almost all the ones that I have seen have blown where I have pictured. Yours is the first I've seen like that.

Looks like the PCB seperated from the board a little and a few components look like they have leaked.

It doesnt matter how much he knows about the older Subaru's, he still works for the insurance company. And they dont want to fork out any more money than they have to. Get your ducks in a row. Go out and find your own Brat ads. Look on CL and Ebay I knows theres some on there now. At least have something to fall back on when they try and low ball you.

I'll try and scan some more of the FSM and post it tomorrow. I'm fighting a cold right now(again) and the meds I took are putting me out.

Hope this helps.

Yes, according to the manual you can. Thats why I'm confused at why its binding now. The bearing that further in on the shaft may not be seated now. I'll try and get a scan of the manual and post it for you.

Ditto!

That was you?

Looking at the tranny from the front, on the left side of the plate theres a round head with one side cut off. Is this lined up so the plate misses it? All the gears are pressed on the shaft, so I dont think they could slide forward. Was the seal replaced? It may not be seated all the way in. Theres also a bearing a little further in. I dont know if this is easy or hard to pull. Have you tried giving the shaft a rap with a block of wood and hammer?

Might be as simple as the rotor coming off. All you need to do is pull the cap off to find out. If its still tight, then you can check to see if the drivers side timing belt is broke by cranking the engine.

Find another one. Preferably from down south or out west. At least one with no rust. $800 from coast to coast to ship.

Glad to hear its on the road now. You will have to stop by sometime now;)