Turbone

What do you mean by a high pressure leak? Where is the leak coming from and what is leaking, water or air? Is there evidence of water in the oil (milkshake) or oil in the water? Is it overheating? We need more details.

The EA81T pistons are cupped or dished for lower compression. Also, the fuel injectors are in the heads above each sparkplug.

These are all the wheels that will fit your car. Your best bet would be to find some Peugeuot wheels. They come in 14" steels or 14"/15" alloys. Heres a link to the wheels page. Wheels page

Yes, they did have a optional sunroof for 84. It should have one latch in the front center to be OEM, and it should be removable. I have a OEM peice of glass for the hole if your interested.

Uh, my "other one" is stock. I think I still have some rear air shocks, it would need something different up front tho.

It just came to me, there was a guy at WCSS3 with a XT6 that had paddle wheels. Qman actually bought what was left of the car this year after the owner rolled it. Him and Zap got rides, they have stories about that.

Dont forget that Sweet put ATV tires & wheels on his "Buggy" Anything should fit, with the right offset

Hmmm, paddle wheels on a XT6

Is it the green or orange stuff? I dont think they make that in diet either

Spark plugs and wires?

Darn, I didnt even spell it right either. Pat, you must be familiar with this disease, eh? :-p

Well, how about this? This diagram shows the galleries for the HLA's and also a relief valve that is in each cam case. I wonder if the relief valve could be part of the problem. It gets quite a bath from the looks of it and maybe with enough sludge it could stick open a little. Enough that, if the HLA is lined up in the gallery correctly it could drain out a small amount of oil, thus creating the tick at startup. Altho this doesnt explain the tick that doesnt go away without some cleaning agent. This might be caused by the gallery getting clogged with sludge also.

That looks more like a 6yr old cap. I wouldnt replace it with the same brand, warranty or not :-\

Doh! Dislexia strikes again Your right, drivers side first. See what you youngins got to look forward to?

FYI, I have moved residence to old location. Check PM for new addy.

Carl, if you want, I can loan you mine.

I think its 2in or 1.5in, either one will work. Window may need some adjustment, a FSM will tell you how. If I can find mine, I'll try and get a scan of it and post it.

Pretty much what I said, with a diag

Heres Dr. RX's write up with pics. He was the first to do it. http://corkysrocks.net/Conversion%204%20to%205.htm

On the back side of the bar, run it within 6in of each end. To make the bends just cut the flat part that goes against the bar and bend it to form. Then you can adjust for the bends, tacking it on. Then put a weld top and bottom and it should be good to go. Qman did this on his old Hatch and never had a problem tweeking it after that.

Hey, I'll trade you that hotwire MAF for em

Heres a helpful diagram taken from a manual. Notice the flywheel marks. These are not timing marks, those are a little further to the right. These are 3 marks and you line up the flywheel on the center mark. Do the drivers side first, then the passengers side.

If its not to bad, take it off and use a BFH to try and straighten it out. Otherwise you need a new(old) one to replace it. If your going to get serious about off-roading, its a good idea to strengthen it.

Sounds like the wires on the relay might be wrong. I used to have the wiring diagram, I know someone on the board does? Might try and wire direct to the bulb to see if its not burned out.

I dont think it will come on with the high beams, thats one reason what the relay is for. Does it work with the low beams?