Turbone

She's one tough gal, she will no doubt be up and running again soon.

This should help get you running again. Read down a little ways to see how the belts are installed. Kudo's to Miles. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/article.php?a=24

You are going to have to relearn how to RallyX it now You might get some pointers from Qman

Was wondering why you didnt come over with Ed and Pat? Could have looked over my stash for some parts

How about your thoughts on the way it handles now I know when Qman put the rear swaybar on his Brat, there was a distinct difference on cornering.

If the canned stuff doesnt do the trick, the oil pump seal/gasket might need to be replaced. Dealer item, usually around $28 and you need to remove most of the front of engine to do it :cool:

I wasnt there for the tear down, just for the clean up. Hope you got the rest of the walls up. Are you having trusses done?

I would have helped too, but I dont know how good your home owners insurance is :-p Glad you got them up, done my share of walls over the years.

Where? Front, rear? Main seals are in front and rear. Have to pull the tranny to do the front, but the rear you only need to drop the driveline.

Sure hope thier not the "metric" type

Go over to XT6.net (if you havent already) and look for posts by Mr. Radon, he's got a couple of nice ones. There was someone else too, that took some pics over looking Puget Sound that were awesome. I'll do some digging, see if I can find them.

No, thats called a trans vestite I'm glad Paul made a deal with you, I know how bad you wanted that Coupe. Someday I'm going to get another one, they are fairly easy to find out here. This time its going to be a radical change, something that hasnt been done in the States (yet )

Go to Radio SHack and get a 4 AA battery pack(plastic holder). You can hook up the power wire to it to maintain your radio settings. It doesnt take 12v to do it either.

If the car lacks power, it comes down to the driver to make up the difference. Did you go to the RallyX school a couple weeks back, Mark?

Happy B-Day buddy. I'll tip a cold one(soda) to you See you on the next run, soon I hope

Just about everything you need to know is here; http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/article.php?c=2 I think you might be mistaken on what engine you have in the Hatch. If the starter is the same as your EA82, the engine is a EA81, not EA71. Look right below the disty, there should be a casting on the block telling you what engine it is.

You might want to contact Lukas, he's almost next door to you. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/member.php?find=lastposter&t=33850

Etched pints would be nice, dont want to use it-might break. Need to be different from last years. Choice of name would be the same as last years. Might buy a few without names this year, for use.

He might have meant, How much for a pic?

It gets my vote for a transplant. If things like the sub frame are sagging, theres serious trouble coming. A EA81 Coupe just sold on Ebay last week (not sure how much, but cheap), I would find a body shop willing to do the work of converting the old top to another car.

Kinda dissapointed you dont have pics Something to ponder also. Here in the PNW we have lots of trees (duh) and when your out wheeling hard and get into tight spots, not only fenders and sheet metal get damaged. I've seen windows pop when pushed against a tree. This is like throwing your $ out the window if their tinted. Besides, I like to see what I'm getting close to.

Well, what do you drive? It better be a Soob

I know I'm splitting hairs here, but the thread should have been "STI Quad (coffin)" But man, what a way to go. I would love to take that out to the drylake/saltflats and see what it could really do. I think it would also be a good idea to wear a chute

Ed is correct. The binding happens after the weight of a handful of keys for several years wears down the internals. I just removed a lockset from a parts car I have and the anti-theft pins need to be drilled out. The front one is easy, the one in the back you need to drop the steering column to get to. The actual switch is on the back of the lockset and can be removed and turned with a key, screwdriver or whatever. But the key needs to be in the ignition so it keeps the steering wheel unlocked.

The complete system should be flushed prior to usage. If you did a complete swap, the pump and rack, no flushing would be necessary. The question now is, will the XT6 rack bolt up to a EA81/82 x-member? The tie rod ends might be a different length also, if used on a EA81. On a EA82 it wouldnt be a problem as you would be doing the 5 lug swap anyways.