Turbone

The 82 GLF might work, you may have to take the plastic ends off.

Any shop manual is invaluable, it can keep you from asking questions that may be embarassing :-p On that note, I have driven my Hatch(s) with a welded diff, on the street often. Just dont make u-turns. As for stabbing the throttle in certain situations, you might be asking for trouble. Thats because you take to long, Tex

Looks like I need to stop by on the way to work someday Take a look at the new additions.

You driving, flying, looking for a ride? I believe the weather is supposed to be PNW normal for the weekend, which means it should be nice and muddy! I still need to finish my elec acc rewire, but that shouldnt take to long.......

Theres a spring on the HH mechanism that acts as a return spring for the clutch fork. If you dont want it sticking to the floor, you may want to put a spring on it.

From that side, it looks sweet. The other side dented?(nevermind). It also looks like it has a lift already, must have the susp cranked all the way up?

Exactly. There wasnt enough water in the system to get a reading from. Once it got to temp the TS opened up and away went the what water you had, in a cloud of steam. Glad you got that block from me?

You can do it, but you need to install a spring for the clutch fork return.

Way to go Fox! You made another Cop magnet

Wow, thats a great write up, sorry I missed it. Hopefully I'll be at the next one, in "something" Jason, you'll just have to wait and see

Those are gaskets that fit between the rear bumper mounting brackets and where it goes thru the rear splash pan.

Wanna sell it?

If it did blow a HG, it could be that it sat to long without having the water in the cylinders drained. That would pit the walls and might cause these problems. It might be a shot in the dark too

Yeah, I think he was a little whacky. Hasnt even got the car on the road yet

I had a EA81T and a have a EA82T that do it also. I attribute it to leaky valve seals and rings.

My 86 GL-10 Turbo Wagon doesnt :cool: Thats a nice looking Soob, for a 4dr :-p If the owner will not take $100 for the car, the landlord can fill out a form for an abandoned vehicle on his property. You may need to get a release from the owner, maybe not. It depends on the law in Cal.

Get in touch with Carfreak, he has the conversion on his turbo wagon.

The 83 and 84 alloys might be bigger due to the vented discs and calipers. More like diagnose the owner thread

My 86 Turbo Wagon is the only car I have that isnt black The coupe is no longer mine, but I own the others.

Just dont put oil in it, it'll stop leaking eventually Sorry, had to pick on the noob. Subaru's leak every where. This could be valve gaskets, or it could be the crank seal, oil pump gasket, cam seals, or the rear main. That one you need to pull the engine to do. Might have to steam clean it to find out where the leak is. If theres more than one area leaking, it might pay to remove the engine and reseal the whole thing. Smart Service is fairly close to you, if you dont want to do the work yourself. And they have a good rep.

Well heres another headache for ya. The plugs on the back are different, not to mention the whole wiring harness. Theres a few here that have converted from digi to analog, but they dont have any hair left either :-p

Well, it looks like your talking about a digidash for a EA81 now. Over here, a working one is as hard to find as hen's teeth. They can go for as much as $75+, altho I have sold them for less ($50). Any voltage spike will fry the regulator in them. If it starts to squeel, shut off the car and check/replace the alternator. Repair is tough also, unless your a skilled tech its a hard job.

The 4EAT's can be pretty finicky. It could be that the fluid and filter need to be changed. I would also check the connections to the tranny, theres a couple on top of it. Also make sure the tires are theexact same size . If not, it will throw the whole tranny whacky. I do have experience with that one If you havent yet, go over to XT6.net, theres a plethora of knowledge there. Theres alot of well intentioned folks here, some know more than others. It helps to have personal knowledge of the part(s) and car(s) when giving advice tho.

Yup, thier pricey. You can go to a shop that makes bearings and have them match up something, you might save $10 a bearing. Indrid, when you do the front brakes, the pistons have to rotate in not push in. Other symptoms of a bad front end are the splines going bad in the hub. But when that happens the wheel wont move and it feels like the clutch is slipping. Also, when replacing the washers on the axle stub make sure you get the flat washer on the correct way. Its cupped and needs the cupped part towards the wheel.

No. If they are jetted and tuned correctly, they can get better mileage.