Turbone

Just dont put oil in it, it'll stop leaking eventually Sorry, had to pick on the noob. Subaru's leak every where. This could be valve gaskets, or it could be the crank seal, oil pump gasket, cam seals, or the rear main. That one you need to pull the engine to do. Might have to steam clean it to find out where the leak is. If theres more than one area leaking, it might pay to remove the engine and reseal the whole thing. Smart Service is fairly close to you, if you dont want to do the work yourself. And they have a good rep.

Well heres another headache for ya. The plugs on the back are different, not to mention the whole wiring harness. Theres a few here that have converted from digi to analog, but they dont have any hair left either :-p

Well, it looks like your talking about a digidash for a EA81 now. Over here, a working one is as hard to find as hen's teeth. They can go for as much as $75+, altho I have sold them for less ($50). Any voltage spike will fry the regulator in them. If it starts to squeel, shut off the car and check/replace the alternator. Repair is tough also, unless your a skilled tech its a hard job.

The 4EAT's can be pretty finicky. It could be that the fluid and filter need to be changed. I would also check the connections to the tranny, theres a couple on top of it. Also make sure the tires are theexact same size . If not, it will throw the whole tranny whacky. I do have experience with that one If you havent yet, go over to XT6.net, theres a plethora of knowledge there. Theres alot of well intentioned folks here, some know more than others. It helps to have personal knowledge of the part(s) and car(s) when giving advice tho.

Yup, thier pricey. You can go to a shop that makes bearings and have them match up something, you might save $10 a bearing. Indrid, when you do the front brakes, the pistons have to rotate in not push in. Other symptoms of a bad front end are the splines going bad in the hub. But when that happens the wheel wont move and it feels like the clutch is slipping. Also, when replacing the washers on the axle stub make sure you get the flat washer on the correct way. Its cupped and needs the cupped part towards the wheel.

No. If they are jetted and tuned correctly, they can get better mileage.

Your .02 adds up to about $20 each. Thats $40 a side. Not that cheap. You can get them alittle cheaper, but you might be sacrificing quality.

Yes, the bolt pattern is the same. But the offset isnt, the brake caliper will not clear the inside of the wheel.

Thats a yes on the 2nd question. No points to change or adjust. But with a electronic disty, you may need the ECU to go with it.

Arrg, just for that (56K) you are going to have to bring the tape with you when you come over for that motor.

I have never heard of a GL with a D/R (5spd? You didnt say) with LSD and the button you talk about is a diff lock. Its usually in a Turbo car. The LSD will most likely be a 3.7 ratio, so your tranny needs to match. Or you can convert the diff to a 3.9 too. If you want to offroad your car, you need the D/R. Its the best tranny for it. The one you saw with the button on top is a single range.

Digidashes came in EA81's and EA82's. Which one are you talking about? Oh yeah, have fun making it a dual function

I'm on alot, just invis. People are what make up the Board, its always best to meet the folks that you correspond with. And it helps put faces to names. And the suprises you get when you first meet Like "He's exactly like I thought he would be" or, "Damn, he's nothing like his board personality Some people are open and post alot on the Boad and when you see them at a show or meet, they end up being quiet introverts. Go figure And it goes both ways. Just dont take first impressions (on the Board) as what the person is really like.

You most likely sucked water into the cylinders. Take out all the sparkplugs and crank the engine over(disc the coil). Dont stand beside the engine, you'll get a shower Would strongly suggest a oil change also.

Basically, they are only good for smooth terrain. I saw a episode of "Trucks" where they put a set on a 3/4T Chevy and put it thru alot of different terrain. It had problems in mud and on rocks, but did well on snow and smooth stuff. The rougher it got the more the suspension got hammered. It had problems with the track staying on and debris getting in the system.

If you are going to have them blasted, then stripping them prior is unnecessary. Any blasting will remove any finish thats on there (duh)

In the US, we had stickers on the Valve Covers that said "Do not adjust valve clearance". I take it yours did not?

It "might" be part of the gasket, or the grommets that are on the valve covers

The lower control arm has a bushing at the x-member, see if its loose. If you cant find the problem, bring it by my place this weekend.

Eh, whats another year? Happy B-Day John.

I would also check the bearing that houses the axle stub on that side. If you grab the end of the axle thats closest to the tranny and try and move it up and down, and it moves considerably, then the bearing is bad.

XT6 wheels! Cool Again, I cant wait to compete with you Bro

Yes, there is a little trick to the timing belts on a XT6. It has to do with the @(*$&% tensioner for the drivers side adj pulley. Sometimes it cooperates, most times it doesnt. But its nothing that cant be handled by the average Joe. I shudder if I even think of putting my car(s) into a shop.

The oil return line is probably split, cracked ot loose. Its under the turbo and goes to the back of the head. And its a beotch to get to. Sometimes the best way to deal with it is to remove the turbo. Oil out the tail pipe could also mean that the oil seal in the turbo has blown. Lots of owners mistake this for a bad HG, and people like us get a free or cheap Soob

Arrrrrrggg, I'm not ready Cant wait to compete against you Zap On another note, the engine is in the RX, just have to put the intake on and button things up (and clean it out).