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One choice is the manual from the 87 onward RX model. Basically a 10 speed tranny as it incorporated a "shift on the fly" high and low range. The low range is not as low as a duel range tranny. But they are not AWD, they are 4wd. The RX is AWD with a lock for the center diff when ness. You will need turbo half shafts (front axles) as the RX is a turbo and it's transaxle end (DOJ) spline count is different. There also was a rare Alcyone in late 87 with a full time manual. No "disadvangtes" but many "advantages"

This time of year we see many posts that center around this type of problem. Many are due to water that has collected in the gas tank over the warmer months. This now enters the fuel system and freezes in some location. Try a can of "dry gas". A can of "Seafoam" is also a good suggestion. It will clean the carbon deposits and the fuel system. It may take 100 miles or so to work it's "magic". Both available at larger autoparts houses. Another problem you may have is the warm air "furnace" piping not connected or not functioning. This devise brings warm air to the carburetor to prevent icing and other cold weather running issues. It is connected to the underside end of the air cleaner housing snorkel and is controlled by a vacuum motor diaphragm on top of the snorkel. A flexible pipe connects this to the exhaust "furnace" coupling. To see if it working look into the end of the snorkel a watch for a flap to rise when the engine is started cold. If the flap does not rise to direct the air flow, check the vacuum lines to the motor and the thermo valve which controls the vacuum. The "dieseling" you experienced could have been caused by a frozen ADS (anti diesel solenoid). If it happens again, turn the engine back on and then turn it off while in gear with the brake pedal depressed. This dieseling is not good for a gas engine. Good luck Hope this helps and Welcome to the good ship USMB

Miss 'Trisity makes the world go round Jump box with cig lighter plug to cig lighter plug cord My alt went south - I jumped boxed the car started and then made the trip back with the jump box "jumpered" to the car's 'Trisity system with the plug to plug cord. Many other uses for these jump boxes

No one mentioned the fuel bowl vent

Tom is talkin turkey here -listen to the wise man., When the flywheel is machined at the factory There is a section near the hub that is app. 0.5" thick when I turn these I use this as the minimum crossectional thickness at any point on the unit. For accurate chucking in my three jaw I use the factory pressure plate ledge - no adapter Note the crown in the hub area on these pictures The clutch side has a recess in this area where the unit bolts to the crankshaft

I'm sorry I did not describe the location in enough detail for you. The housing where the upper radiator hose connects has two sensors Both threaded into the housing and facing toward the outboard side of the car. . one is threaded in at an angle. this one is for the dashboard temperature gauge. The FSM calls this the thermometer. one is threaded in horizontally below and more towards the front of the engine and has a set of wires permanently attached. This is the FI coolant thermosensor You can test it. The readings should be as follows H20 Temp (deg F)_______Res. (ohms) 14____________________7-11.5 k ohms 68____________________2-3 k ohms 122___________________700 - 1000 ohms as for the dash gauge sensor it can also be tested in a similar fashion but has different values. Once again I am sorry for the lack of detail in my original post. Hope this helps May I add that since no fuel injection type was mentioned I am assuming SPFI

Sir there are two coolant sensors One for the gage (the one you cleaned the spade terminal on) and One for the fuel injection ECU The one that is giving you a engine check light is the second. On the goose neck housing where you found the first unit there is another, this one has a pigtail going to a connector. You could try cleaning the connections but a replacement is probably in the cards I'm sorry I do not know how much they cost.

It could be a possible that the rag got Scott's Impreza numbers cornfused with his Brat? Regardless they both rock

my check mark goes beside a broken belt in one of the front tires if you are serious about fixing this jack each wheel off the ground spin it and watch for irregularities I am also behind Craig in his Lf - > Lr I believe your method went out with bias ply tyres but I'm brain dead so please pay no attention

Whoa - Jackson I am sorry sir, slack has been cut and a chill pill administered. I react a bit hostile before my coffee kicks in when being referred to like as a horse. "HEY" is for horses ain't it? Good luck with your problem. BTW The EGR and the air cleaner "box" are not associated. at least on any of the cars I have seen. and carburetored cars do not have an "air box" last time I looked, now there is a solenoid "thingie" connected to the EGR valve control line. It does look like the one on the metal snorkel that should be located on the air cleaner housing "box" if you will. I am sorry for the confusion please accept my apologies. I will retire now Do you have a carburetor on this car? Sorry again for being a putz Happy New Year Sir.

Tach here is a recent post on the new gen side that may yield some help, see tha last couple threads A.S.S. problems (Air Suspension System) my personal monkier for this system The FSM has an extensive section on trouble shooting this system including getting codes from it's ECU I have wiring and pin outs scanned if you need them.

Rosana I am having a Crimestopper installed next weekend in my VDC I did some searching and the site that has some info is the 12volt .com given to me by another board member COSubes. Here is a insert from the linked to post below "Sorry, you can thank subaru for it. you can only arm and disarm factory alarm from factory remote." Here is a link to the post, you can search the site if you register http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?TID=44902&KW=subaru+remote+start

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I suggest getting a new key made at the stealer from the key number not the offending key my MY00 2.5 RS started a similar act and I have had no problems since.

I suggest a compression test

Maybe they don't sell it in AZ but the substance is called "Dry Gas" Basically isopropyl alcohol You may also want to look at the sparking plug wires

I think it sounds like water in the gas how much fuel was in the tank while you were gone?

HO!! not to be rude - too late I believe he does work for CCR engines you could email Emily or try a search for posts by Roobuilders or rubuilders or Kerry or you could try and help yourself by looking for the "thingie", I told you where it is located, then test it. one can only lead the horse to the water trough

Phil You now know as much as I do now about the solenoid "thingie" Please email Kerry, he will cut you the skinny on the thingie. You can find his email on the "members" list. He knows these carbs better than anyone on the board. Seafoam has indeed been known to work miracles be aware it may take 100 mi. or so to work it's magic.

this was the last year for the carb being used on these cars as a consequence they were enamored with many pollution control devises I had an 87 4 wd carbed wagon that did the same thing. Kerry at Roo Builders told tale of a solenoid mounted on the air cleaner snorkel - possibly in control of the bowl vent After changing that the 2k - 4k flat spot was gone and the engine well... ran as good as a carbed car of this weight can run or you might just try a can of Seafoam in the fuel tank

spencer Sure sounds like the electric choke and anti diesel solenoid are not getting power They both need + battery voltage when the ignition is in the run position. use a test light or voltmeter to check this this line is bothersome though " also my rpm gauge and gas gauge would go out then come back" maybe unrelated maybe not - check the fusible link connections and the alternator connections

humor me on this one add a can of dry gas to the fuel tank remove the electrical plug on the MAF. run the same test where you see the fuel come out of the injector replace the plug into the MAF connect the MAF hose to the throttle body connect the coil wire start the engine and see if you can hold the throttle at around 2000 RPM print this procedure if ness.

PJ-1 mc chain lube - like graphite it is not suppose to hold crud consider for a moment the environment a chain lives in. spary can at any mc shop

correct there is an extensive desc. on a new gen post if you need it