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Just for a qwik test Unplug the MAF then try your start sequence Does it change anything or behave the same?

Okay both are correct "Do It" just makes it easier. Lets see if we can describe what's going on, it might help. (note: for simplicity sake these are fixed pressure FPRs, the factory and the add on, change pressure in response to a changing manifold pressure) This type FPR controls the pressure in the line to it by by-passing excess pressure into the return line.** The return line has near zero pressure normally. Lets say for example only, that FPR1 is set at 35 psi. If the return line is pressurized by FPR2 higher than the FPR1 is set at, (lets use 50 psi) The excess pressure down to 35 psi can not be bypassed into a line with 50 psi on it. Thus, the resulting pressure is 50 from FPR2 back to the pump. see this crude sketch. FRP setup A simple test for people with a fuel pressure gauge is to squeeze closed the return line with a pair of needle nose pliers. The harder you squeeze, the higher the system pressure will go, up to the max pressure of the pump. ** There are relief valves that control pressure by allowing the pressure after them to be set - these are called "pressure relief valves" Often used in boost/waste gate control set ups. Does this help?

Caboob no your RX is not special like Doc and Will say ALL RX's. Maybe we should spell this out in plain terms. The only other car (not "sports car") in the Subaru line up of this vintage that had the rear limited slip differential as standard equipment was the 89 GL-10 turbo with the single range 5 speed manual transmission with full time four wheel drive it also had an electrically (vacuum controlled) lockable center differential.. Sounds like a great vehicle for you north state band grips that have to transport the equipment to and fro gigs. We need the XT crowd to fill in the XT6 line. There was rumor of a XT6 manual tranny w/LSD but I do not know if the LSD was standard. It had the 3.9 vs the 3.7 RAR (Rear Axle Ratio) The XT6 FSM from 91 simply says "The LSD is installed on the rear differential of four wheel drive vehicles" As far as the 4EAT goes, it was and still is used in the Legacy line although it has seen many refinements. as for the Probe, maybe the Ford boys can answer this.

Now here is a RWAG (Real Wild A$$ Guess) for you. I like the fuel percolation (i.e boiling) idea. IF your bowl vent were closed or restricted and the fuel boiled the pressure in the fuel bowl collapsed or somehow impregnated the fuel bowl float. Now the float is sinking and allowing too much gas into the bowl -thus it's dumping this lowers the idle as the excess fuel is flooding the engine (fuel out of primary) you turn the idle up to compensate for the excess fuel. I did say RWAG I'd check the float level

Listen to what the doc says "RXs and GL-10 Full Time 4WD Turbos with manual trannys." I listened to what Will said and got burned. The 89 GL-10 turbo automatic (i.e. 4EAT) FT4WD do not have it as standard equip..

Freed, The CS will affect fuel mileage. Took some diggin as the FSM I have that covers the ECU controlled carb car is from 84. It shows the thermosensor located beside the upper rad hose connection closer to the center of the car pointing toward the firewall. Should be screwed in at an angle. and have a black with red wire and a white with black stripe wire. Being newer it may have different colored wires.The b/r goes to ground. Clean the connections and if the code does not clear you may need to replace it. If you want to test it, FSM says the resistance value is 10 ohms or more?? I can get you the varring resistance from a newer model, but don't know if it will apply. Maybe some one has a newer FSM for the EA81. My newer ones (85 and newer) are for EA82 engines Sorry I couldn't help more.

no magic here, I bought new lamps at Advanced Auto They have an entire section of higher wattage lamps for everything from brake lamps to reverse lamps.

What Miles says is correct but the skin is pretty thick. I drilled and tapped it for 5/16 fine threaded bolts. Mine have been fine for over a year now. (Read no wobble) The lights mounted in the bumper cutouts where the turn signals used to be are KC Daylighters. I rewired the turn signals to the corner lights beside the headlamps. The turnsignals are more visable there and it is a simple job to rewire them. I also increased the lamp wattage. BTW There are two lamps in this location. The yellow colored lamp still lights for a parking light. Hope this helps.

ain't red but it is a GL Meet "Willy the wunder wagon" I wunder why she still runs

J, there are over ten (10) bushings that could be suspect in the shifter mechanism. but there is also a cylinder shaped connector that ultimately connects the shifter linkage to the shifter input shaft on the transmission. This barrel is locked to the input shaft in much the same way as the EA81 shifter. And is prone to the same wear pattern/problem as the EA81 shifter suffers. Please see the link I posted. Then examine your shift linkage from under the car You may get an insight to nature of the problem.

you are welcome see my first post in this thread here it is

Shifter fix the engine type is a vital component in this problem see above for the EA81 shifter fix

taken from Dare To Compare

The ECU and you IF they are to do their job. Our ECU's need input from electrical sensors and control of other electrical devises. This "job" involves making the engine run smoothly and keeping engine pollution outputs at an acceptable level. IF one or more of these electrical components does not present the ECU with a resistance or output value within certain parameters it feels there is a problem. The ECU now knows it can not do it's job properly and therefore alerts the driver of a problem by illuminating the CEL. The CEL will go off - and the ECU stores the code for the problem. The CEL is off in case another problem arises but will relight if the first problem is not dealt with after a few start cycles. You can retrieve these stored error codes even if the light is off. ***However if the CEL has not illuminated you will not have a stored error code.*** You must plug together the dark colored connectors. These "Read Memory" connectors are black or dark brown. Not the green connectors, (AKA "Test" connectors) please see Retrieval Clearing stored codes: If and only if you fix the problem will the error codes clear. Disconnecting the battery will NOT repeat NOT clear these stored error codes. The volatile memory of the ECU will retain the error codes. To clear the stored memory codes One must: a) fix the electrical component so that it presents the proper output/resistance clear the memory using the procedure outlined in the FSM . please see Error Code Clearing I am sure this makes it all as clear as chocolate milk. I apologize in advance for this incomprehensible and lame attempt. (batteries not included, your mileage may vary and no warranty implied)

quote below my cone filter there is several big holes drilled through my fender well and it blows cool air from where the original housing sucked it in (or at least I hope it does. unquote Best keep on "hoping" Take a quick peek at the radiator fan on the pass. side. This comes on when the AC is on or the themoswitch in the rad asks for it to come on. Now ask yourself - will that fan with the assistance of the air coming through the grill offset and therefore force it's hot air into the space you say is being pressurized by air blowing in from the nearly static air space in the inner fender. Since you are into butchering your fender well, why not drill a three inch hole and put the bling into the inner fender. These MAFs respond quite well to a small volume of air sitting immediately outside of their input flange. A port from a sub woofer enclosure is a very good idea also. This port corrects the impedance mismatch. see the left hand side of this picture of my lump .

Real good pointers thus far. I will add Do yourself and your engine a favor and replace the 13 year old radiator. The PA salt has delaminated the cooling fins along the lower portion - no flush will fix it. Word from a neighbor, tell Matt, Skip says "Yo"

Did you have the green connectors beside the ECU connected when you set the ignition timing? Did you remember to unplug them when you were done? Have changed the fuel filter recently? Do you have the waste gate duty solenoid (located between the air box and the pass side strut) plumbed correctly? What is supporting the MAF if you have no air box fitted? Or is just the element removed. Make sure the hose from the turbo to the intake plenum (Al piece with "Subaru Turbo 4WD" on it) is clamped tightly. I have seen where this hose will lift off under boost and cause this type problem. Sorry for all the questions, just attempting to help. two posts back you call this a 1984 GL-10, Do you want to fix this typo please. An 84 has a different fuel system in reference to the mass air flow sensor.

The devise you are referring to is called the waste gate control duty solenoid. It should have three rubber lines and one two wire electrical connection. One line goes to the waste gate, one to the hose barb on the turbo pressure outlet and the third goes to the MAF to turbo pipe (it is just a "breather" line) If it is not connected properly the waste gate will not control the boost pressure. Hope this helps

A place that handles many body parts for our vintage and earlier Roos is Mill Supply http://millsupply.com/ Neither the website nor the catalog list everything they have so a phone call is best Hope this helps

Tony, The check engine light does not have to be on to check the error codes stored in the ECU. You mention reading this http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/article.php?a=44 Using the black connectors see what code shows up. Note where it says your ECU is under the rear parcel shelf by the pass. side speaker. The connectors will be found there also. The problem may well be a solenoid, simple fix. After you find the problem. An ad in the marketplace section can bring satisfactory results There are many board members from your neck of the woods The oil leak, steam clean or use Gunk and look closely afterward. Good luck welcome to the good ship USMB

Russ, Let me be the first to say thanks. Very well written and composed. This should be used to set an example for any one wishing to post a question or an answer. Thank you for taking the time to write up the documentary. Maybe we can get it added to the USMB repair manual.

Freed, This car is a bit of an odd ogg. Does the sticker in the driver's side door jamb say 88 or late 87 production date? It must be a hatch since it has a carb. Therefore is must have an EA81, in 88?? in America?? N knee ways If you would have a look at the boards code reference chart http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/article.php?a=44 It says coolant temp. sensor. Where this is on a carbed 88 EA81 - I am sorry I haven't a clue. It can cause fuel economy problems as the ECU will select a run rich mode no doubt, if it senses a problem with the CS output. The CS problems in many cases is due to corrosion on the contacts of the connector. As for the idle up, it is a vacuum diaphragm on the pass side of the carb with a lever extending to the throttle, no doubt controlled by a solenoid. You can test this solenoid. 88 EA81 hatch with an ECU, I love it when I learn something new. I am going to assume you had the black connectors connected when the 02 monitor on the ECU flashed two long and four short??

Grunt Even silly questions deserve an answer. The answer is not so silly though because it depends on the turbo's problem. 1) if the turbo is locked up, it will present a major restriction in the passage of exhaust and intake air. 2) If the turbo has major seal leakage, the fluid leaking will cause a labyrinth of problems. 3) if the turbo is not making pressure but still spinning - the car will be a toad but can be driven. Hope this helps, it was not a silly question BTW

Good point Bill he says he has spark at the plugs Drivers side belt snapped -> no spark as dist doesn't turn but pass side snaps - may start or try to Now how about belt stripped or slipped a few teeth. Needs to do some homework.

Scott, I believe you think there is some difference in the combustion chamber volume/shape. This is not the case and the comp. ratio is set by the piston crown.. The heads in question are identical except for a water and an oil port which the turbo unit has.