1 Lucky Texan

definitely varies by State. used to be just weight of the car (road damage) but, they decided they could 'soak the rich' so, newer cars paid more. dunno what the formula looks like now that they'd like to get older cars off the road.

there's also a sensor in the brake fluid reservoir that could be bad or the wiring from it is compromised. Maybe the HID install compromised a ground connection?

we even keep a few Tripletts around here at work, but I haven't seen anyone use one in 10 years. i guess it's just hard to let them go! maybe chek ebay. edit - yep, there's some on ebay!

I have to do that gusset squeeze maneuver before any serious road trip. No luck training the wife to avoid pushing on the glass when closing the doors.

Yes, you're introducing more fresh oil, however, you also are collecting combustion byproducts and, probably more importantly, fuel from blowby. the fuel probably reduces your viscosity. Overall, you might consider just keeping a 'normal' interval and trying a higher viscosity or a brand made for high wear engines. also, make darn certain your PCV valve and hoses are clean.

I know it isn't dead - just trying to save those starting electrons for use in that last 1/2 mile before your driveway!

5 sp? maybe talk some coworkers into a push start! good luck

after they came free, what were your best techniques for smoothing them back out/rebuilding?

were inner and outer pads worn 'fairly' evenly on the old pads? Any sign of uneven wear now? just wondering if the rotors you got could be 'wrong' in some dimension and are dragging. Hard to ignore the slide pins being the most lilkely cause however. triple check them. I suppose the piston's dust boot could have been comprimised and the calipers need rebuilding..... Excessive heat there is bad - can even degrade wheel bearing grease I suppose.

any strut work done? maybe the mount for the strut has a busted stud or something. You might look at the anti-sway bar and its mounts too, but that seems like it would be too low for your noise. edit: DOH, beat by minutes again while composing/spell checking lol!

thanx!

I have a tiny Radio Shack that I've been using for a while. It seems OK so far but is nothing fancy. subscribing for good suggestions as I may buy something to upgrade my own, and as fo a gift for soon-to-be son-in-law. OH - I just remembered, I found something the other day I meant to photo and post. An old multimeter/tune-up meter I BUILT from a Graymark kit in highschool in about 1972! OK, found a tiny pic on-line of what I think is the same unit;

GD or anyone else still feel it's safe for me to install the Xacstat in my Outback? no bad reports?

have you seen this thread; http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=131575

any updates?

what did you go with? did it work out OK?

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_Subaru_engines

Put new wiper blades all the way around on the wife's OBW. Trico exactfit on the fron, a cheap Anco on the back. Put a Trico exactfit 14-b on the back of my WRX - looks awesome. Put refills in the 08 STI aero blades I run on the front. Kinda fiddly but much cheaper than the whole blade. Got all the stuff ready for maintenance next month. We don't put a lot of miles on the cars so I do fluid changes and other related stuff in April and October.

I use this; based on a suggestion in another Forum. Put a little on the back of the pads, between any shims, slider pins and the pad ears/edges in addition to the pins. basically, every thing that might move, if even just a little shifting. I'd say your mechanic is likely correct about the pins being corroded/rusty. I like to wire brush my wheel studs and the back of my wheels to knock off any corosion. Rust is minimal down here though. If it's been a few years or a lot of miles since changed, might be a good time to flush out/replace the brake fluid too. And, I can recommend Centric PosiQuiet Ceramic as a very good aftermarket pad. Subaru pads are also excellent. An 'upgraded' pad for 'spirited' driving would be StopTech Street Performance. All on 'decent' quality solid rotors. others will chime in I'm sure.

If possible, move your other original axle to the other (EMPI) side. Reboot if you want. The wear forces will be on almost new surfaces. Try to get a junkyard axle and do the same - that is, get one from th eopposite side of where you intend to mount on your car and the bearings/balls will be running against less worn surfaces inside the joints. sad to hear the EMPI might be bad. maybe I just lucked out on mine.

where is that in the oil circuit? kinda makes me want to get a real oil pressure gauge - and glad I run synthetic.

maybe TC is the instrument cluster/dash lights?

never thought about this, but seems perfectly possible. I also would like to know if the axle nut was torqued with no weight on the wheel. But if there were no vibration before, seems unlikely to be any kind of mounts. I dunno, possible coincidence I guess.

make sure none of those 'tabs' that the crank sensor 'senses' were broken off.

thanx, bookmarked and filed in YT favorites