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Showing results for tags 'brat'.
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Hi guys Have inherited a 1990 brumby from my grandfather who passed last november. I absolutely have fallen head over heals in love with it. The 'brumble beast' had done 305 000 kms and has bugger all rust in it. Engine has been tinkered with by subaru 'specialists'. Ive noticed all the hitachi carb haters out there and I must say I love them! I have no mechanical experience at all but am very mechanically minded. I am determined to keep the hitachi however doing away with all the emissions garb. You guys have great pics etc however I'm in Australia and everything is backwards lol. Anyhow I'll post some pics and your guidance would be fab! Zeb -
I joined the USMB about 4 years ago after purchase of my 1983 Brat GL. I wanted to install 14" wheels, but not a lot of options. On the USMB I found that Peugeot wheels would fit my Brat and aquired 4 of them at local tire dealer. I just got tires mounted and what to do with the center hole. A friend of mine has a 3D printer and offered to print a custom set for me. After a couple of adjustments he came up with the perfect solution. Installed them today with silicone adhesive and they look great. If interested Terry can make a custom set for you in various colors, logos or almost any insert.
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On my my way home from Mexico I found this guy on the side of the road... So i drove it back it back to Canada! let the fun begin. the good: almost everthing is there, jump sets and everything. No real body damage and no bad body rust from what I can tell. runs! Shifts pretty good(4spd) the bad: Torn cv’s lots of caked oil, Mexican wiring oil sender dosnt work driver side strut top is completely torn(found this once I got it home) leakying front main seal bad rad fan Truck bed leaks into cabin(when it rains) Plan: since I’ve been building my crazy off road poptop gl wagon, I thought it’d make this more of a daily driver. bushings upgrades 2 inch lift 215/75/15 Baja bfg on yota drilled 6 lug. camber/caster plates longer ish dual rate suspension Electric swap?!?!
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Hi everyone! Got a beautiful pair of 86 Brat Doors from California for my 83 Brat GL. It was wickedly expensive to ship them from LA to New York! The new doors are stripped of everything, so I need to change over the glass, interior panels, basically everything. Are there any special tools I need, and what is the order of removal and installation in the new doors? I've never done this operation before and could use some advice! Thanks again happy spring!
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I need help. Got a perfect Cyclops third eye working and the original grille is designed for a two-headlight setup on Subaru Brat. I need to change out four headlights on my 1983 Brat GL for two, see attached photo. I am looking to purchase two front headlight bezels and the lights, thanks!
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Hi, I'm having trouble seems like every time I start my 83 Brat GL 1.8. Put in an expensive Odyssey battery with 850cc amps and installed new cables. I realize it's been cold here in NYC, but for instance today temp outside about 40, car turns over easily but won't fire up. Tried starting fluid in the carb, didn't help. I do notice two things, one of the two radiator fans fires up every time when ignition is on, and the low power lamp comes on the dash in the battery readout. Ideas? Thanks again!
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Just got a working cyclops 3rd eye setup for my 83 Brat GL. Have the original switch, but missing the original relay pcb. Also don't have the original 82 grille that matches the cyclops. Purchased a set of 87a relays and have read posts here how to wire these up using the original switch. Can someone please reply with a working, known to be good spec for getting this setup working? Also would be very interested in purchasing an original cyclops front grille. Thanks!
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I have an issue I can't seem to shake. My 85 BRAT vibrates when I drive over 45 mph like clockwork. The vibration sounds like a low, constant rumble. And I can feel it on my back. The vibration seems to ease a little when I let go of the accelerator (above 45 mph), but it does not go away. It then eases again when I make it past 70 mph, but doesn't go away entirely. I have brand new u-joints in the drive shaft (it clicked as I moved) and the vibration was there before and after I changed them. It also has brand new inner & outer tie rods, ball joints, front wheel bearings, front axles, shocks in the rear, front rotors, rear brake shoes. I had a tire alignment (needed to anyways after the tie rod change) and even though my tires have maybe 1,700 miles on them, I rotated the tires and balanced them anyways, but the vibration stayed the same. Other than the rear axles, which for the life of me I can't find at all, new, used refurbished or any at all. I can't figure out what could be the cause. I keep seeing almost everything pointing to either the tires or the axles, but with no new rear axles to be found and tires already rotated/balanced, I'm out of ideas. Any and all help is appreciated!
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I was driving home from the auto parts store, waiting more money, and as i came up to a light came to a complete stop my brat died. Then it was a crank no start, got it out of the road and checked the basics to see if something had just rattled loose. She was getting fuel, no plug wires were loose. (Couldn't verify spark with just myself) After a new more hopeful tried to start to no avail I let her sit for a few minutes and like magic she started right up and ran like nothing was ever wrong. This happened again about 5 minutes later. And several other times, while accelerating, decelerating and even just holding steady at 2k rpm then would just back to life. However on the last time she blew the fuse for the regulator. (When I got it, replaced the fuseable links for a fuse block) I got her with 116k miles and did a tune up then, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, etc.. Now has 133k on it Anyone have any ideas? From what I've been able to find could be an ignition module issue? -
Need both front fenders for a 1st gen brat, the rougher the better. Not looking for mint. Rusted, dented, paint fade would be great -
This is my second Brat, my first one was a 78 but we went from having one 12 year old to having four 13 year olds, kids that is, so I had to move to a car that safely carried at least five. Those kids are now 40 years old and I am retired so I was able to get another Brat. I only had to drive 762 miles round trip to get it. As soon as I patch a slow leak in the gas tank, this will be my primary vehicle. I will keep my Yaris for when I have to haul two to four passengers. After fixing the gas tank and patching a few rust holes I will replace the seats. We have an older camper, trailer not self driving, that is painted white and yellow, I will paint the brat to match the camper. While the Brat can't pull the camper we will take the Brat when we go camping just to show off. The tires are old, made in 02, and I would like to replace them with some that are a little larger. I want to keep the original wheels. If anyone knows how big a tire I can run on them I would appreciate knowing that also. I guess that will do for an introduction. jim -
Two electrical connectors on my factory air conditioning drier. What is their function ?
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I heard that I could crank the torsion bars in the back but how about front?
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Hi folks, I'm looking to start doing some cosmetic work on my '79 BRAT. Specifically I need the below (preferably in red but i'll take what I can get!): tailgate (or even just the handle for the tailgate) passenger fender front bumper plastic door handle covers for interior I have some parts that I'd be willing to part with myself like a hood, rear diff, about 7 carbs in various states of disrepair ;), a couple of alternators, windshield wiper motors and the linkage, some interior parts like visors and a couple of door handles I believe and other parts as well. I will look through what I have if you have a specific thing you're looking for.
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Hey guys, I have a 1984 subaru brat that I bought because it had 4wd, but when I push the 4wd button the light will light up on the dash as long as I hold the button down, but the rear end won't kick in. Any thoughts? -
So I got myself a 1994 Subaru Brat (RHD) with an EA81 engine and in the process of swapping in a Legacy Twin Turbo.. :-) Would any of you fine people have a wiring diagram for the Brat (Is it the same as the 1800 gl?) Thanks in advance John
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I have a 1985 Subaru Brat 3-speed automatic. My brakes were trash and squealed really bad so I replaced the pads and rotors and had to replace the calipers too because the Piston wouldn't go back in. Got those installed and went to bleed the brakes and the pedal goes straight to the floor. It doesn't build any pressure at all. I attempted to bleed the brakes anyway but like I said it doesn't build pressure and if you pump in a bunch of times in a hole to the floor and open the bleeder valve brake fluid just dribbles out. Figured I somehow messed up the brake master cylinder so I got a new one and installed it and no change at all. I bled the master cylinder and the calipers multiple times as well and it still just dribbles out. I know brake booster uses vacuum, so I think it has something to do with that because, when I hit the brake pedal air gets sucked into the carburetor. Also when the vehicle is running if I hit the brake it stutters and almost dies. I don't see any drips or anything from the brake lines, calipers, or MC. Any ideas what could be wrong? Do I need a new brake booster? I'm honestly kind of stumped.
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Got my hands on a 92 brumby. And looking at converting the engine transmission drive train. Adding abs cruise control and power steering from a newer subaru (impreza liberty) I'm hoping I can just transfer it all over from the donor car straight into the brumby. A few questions brumbys are fed unless 4wd is engaged... right? If so how would I make it always awd during the transfer. Are there any modifications/adapters I'm gonna need ? Any information and knowledge is appreciated. And I will keep this updated with my progress. I know its doable.
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Hi, this is my first post to USMB. My current project is an 83 Brat, 131k miles, sat for the last 10-15 years in Texas, probably in the direct sun. The oil pressure gauge shows nominal pressure when the engine is cold. Over the first 10 minutes of running, the oil pressure eventually drops to zero as the temperature comes up. Here's what I have tried: - drain the oil looking for sludge; fill with oil and sludge remover and run 10 minutes; fill again with new filter - switch to 20W-50 Didn't find any sludge. The heavier oil helps a little (I think), but still the pressure goes all the way down to zero. I'm convinced that the oil pump is working, else I should see zero pressure when the engine is cold. I could replace the oil pressure sending unit, but why would the sending unit malfunction only when warm? Has anyone else had this problem?
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I have a bent valve in an 85 Brat A/T. I want to replace it but I can't find any place that specifically has the Large valve. Rock Auto says it has it but i looked and the 82 Brat in their catalog uses the same valve part number. And correct me if I'm wrong but pre 84 had smaller valves... I just don't want to buy it pull the head and find out its the wrong one.
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Just thought i would share this awesome thing. A guy on ebay is selling an ea81/ea82 to ej22 swap with all the parts on ebay. Low mile engine. If I had the money and it wasn't 8 hours away, I'd be picking it up More than likely the seller is on this website too. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Complete-Subaru-EJ22-engine-with-EA81-EA82-conversion-setup-/202151761344 -
I have an 85 brat that I bought a gasket kit for. When I replace the head gaskets I accidentally adjusted one of the valves. Total stupidity on my part but nothing I can do about it now. I tried to fix it by using the adjustments . 01 for the intake and .014 for the exhaust. I didn't realize at the time that mine wasn't the solid lifters but the hydraulic ones. I know now they're the hydraulic ones because they have the little locks for the nuts. Now that the engine is back together and ready to start it runs terribly and ticks. I haven't ran it more than 30 seconds because I figured what I did. So my question is what do I adjust the valves to for the hydraulic ones?
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I have an 85 Brat that's a 3AT that I've almost finished putting back together after head gasket replacement. I got a new radiator off of Rock Auto. My question is is there a difference between the radiator in Auto and manual or are they the same. It looks like my OEM one except the radiator cap hole is bigger and the inside of the reservoir looks different. I'm making sure it still works as the auto trans cooler. I have pics if needed. Link to radiator: https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/subaru,1985,brat,1.8l+h4,1267747,cooling+system,radiator,2172
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I'm hoping someone can help me with an issue I am having. I have an 86 brat with the Hitachi Carburetor, I removed the Carburetor and cleaned it and installed a rebuild kit (mainly gasket) every since then when it first starts running it'll idle Really high (3-4000 rpms) then it gets to where it wont idle at all ! another thing it's doing (may or may not be related ) when giving it gas it acts like it's either not getting gas or has a hesitation in it until you rev it up about 25-3000 rpms then it'll open up and take fuel and run like it should. Any advice ? I'm planning on taking the carb back off and tiring it back down but, wanted to hear everyone opinions of what it could be (or what to look for). Thanks for helping !
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I have an 85 Brat with the 3AT. I also have an 89 GL parts car with a 5 speed D/R. I want to put the 5 speed into the brat but, I have to get rid of the GL by this weekend, so i wanna pull the transmission and other stuff I need. My question is what do I need to pull from the car for the swap? If the list is somewhere on here just post the link. If not please help!
