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Thank you all you great guys out here on USMB - I couldn't have done it right with out you - probably would have messed it up. I wasn't ticking too bad, but now ZERO - and super quite overall! Also did water pump, hoses and seal on metal pipe that goes into pump. Sealed up some cracks in my air intake snorkel with RTV, fixed anything I found along the way and now it's super quite and smooth. No "bubbles and water fall" sounds coming out of coolant system. No scary stuff with the temperature almost going into danger before thermostat opens. Im pretty sure the last couple of days before the belt broke it had lost at least a tooth and jumped a tooth cause it was feeling out of balance when idling - that's the main reason I kind of why I thought it might be a waste doing this job - and I REALLY didn't want to tear it all the way down, I would have sold it or junked it. It really feels like I have a brand new rebuilt motor! To me it's amazing there is such a difference. AND NO OIL DRIPPING (yet) all over the bottom of the timing belts, which would spread into the exhaust pipe and start burning & smoking if on the freeway very long! It's almost like a dream... Thanks again

I already have the multi-port heads. I grabbed everything I would need from an '87 XT in the pick-n-pull yard.

The 45 prevents it from suctioning to the bottom of the overflow tank.

I can't tell you why. I don't have that answer. I can only tell you that it doesn't work. Just like compression tests don't show gasket leaks, and block/HG sealer products don't work on Subaru HG leaks either. They JUST DONT. Honestly those coolant CO2 tester kits really require a TON of CO2 to work at all, and I haven't personally seen one work on any application - many of which had confirmed HG failures after tear down. GD

The CO2 color changing liquid kits NEVER work for Subaru's. Waste of time. Pull the heads - that's how you find the gasket leak on an EJ. If you have burped it, and it has a factory thermostat and radiator cap - and then you drive it and it overheats - the head gaskets are bad. GD

I love that movie - almost as much as Once Upon a Time in the West

My EA82 lasted for 257,000 miles with little or no maintenance before it finally blew a head gasket. I bought the car for the going rate of scrap at the time (about 5 years ago). I took the engine out and completely rebuilt it, pistons & rings, bearings, all new timing components, water pump, lapped the valves, etc. I have been driving it for 5 years now. It's clean and quiet and runs great. It gets good gas mileage too. It has enough power for what it is and it still has the original oil pump, hah. The SPFI is soon to be replaced with a multi-port Spyder setup. Congrats to you! Good work

do OTHER people hear this? could be a tumor. lol!

yup - and for both of your interests... I did find this video: (There's still hope! ;-) ).

What vehicles did you pull and tap in? All Subaru automatic side differential seals prior to 2005 require removing the retainer plate to replace the seal. Those seals do occasionally develop a slow leak.

Well done. Now just wait for the EA82 naysayers to pipe up They are just an engine that gives and gives, then just once in a while deserves a freshen up which many have no time,patience or money for -so never find out Seen this time and again, done right gives owner joy once the cost pain is forgotten Once had a tight wad fighter pilot finally surrender to insistence his EA82 got new lifters along with his reseal and belt kit, water pump and hoses. Was ever so thankful for the result

My 86 GL

cam seal leak. pull timing belt, cam sprocket, replace cam seals. it maybe, could be the valve cover. the rear timing cover and front lower valve cover corner are so close to each other and both wet and i don't how that oil got spread around particularly if you sprayed degreaser on it. so it could be valve covers depending how the degrease went down - but otherwise that looks far more like a cam seal than valve cover. clean that front area of the valve cover and timing cover and see where the oil comes from.

Don't be sorry, and yeah, sometimes the guys tend to be a little blunt.. us long timers are used to it, but we sometimes forget new folks are not, lol in all seriousness, the mod you are considering is not something even remotely needed on a daily driver. The correct thermostat, installed properly, will do more for you than putting all kinds of time & effort into something that is completely unnecessary. a little tip when filling your cooling system... Fill the block first, thru the upper rad hose.. take your time, and make sure you get the block completely full before putting the hose on the radiator, and then filling the radiator. If you have the correct thermostat installed, it will seep coolant through the jiggle pin hole, into the lower rad hose, pushing air out thru the radiator. having the nose in the air does help, but filling the block thru that upper hose works beautifully nearly every single time. I have owned several Subarus over the last 18 yrs - from an 89 GL wagon with the EA82, a couple of early-mid 90s Legacies with the EJ22, and currently a 2002 Forester with the EJ251. I have never had a problem with trapped air using the rad hose method of filling the cooling system.

Bypass the heater core. Restricted heater cores can reduce coolant flow to the back side of the t-stat not allowing it to open.

man, i would not haul around motor oil for weight. a sand tube or two. no mess if the leak, and sand for traction if needed.

I just finished an SJR 4" lift on my 92 Loyale and it's a fairly painless process (just takes time). As others have said, you do have to sort the steering out by cutting and welding an extension onto the knuckle. I've heard that you can swap the knuckle for a forester knuckle, but I don't know the truth in that.

OEM Subaru clutch and throttle cables.

NO SEALANT. Pull it apart and check everything. You have done something horribly wrong. I can measure Ra finish. I bought a meter for it. And I'm not even a machinist. Use the Subaru head gasket part number ending in 770. GD

Well, I couldn't find an old ratty wheel to cannibalize for my aftermarket wheel adapter, so I just used mine. Made a plastic bushing to center the pilot bit, and holesawed away. Then flattened out the little bend on one edge with a BFH, and drilled and tapped for the new wheel. Best thing about this method (other than being cheap) is the horn and turn signal cancel cam work just like factory! I had this same style wheel back in high school in a 72 Opel GT that I stuffed a 1963, 215 CI. aluminum Oldsmobile V8 into, and always loved the wheel.

If you have firefox, there's a plugin called "Down-Them-All", it allows you to download every single (insert file extension here) in 2 or 3 clicks. That's how I downloaded all the PDFs. By the way, there's TONS of FSMs too. http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/

Phase one of deer damage repair. Parts car in the bckground.