Leaderboard

Green pair = D-CHeck........a self diagnostic of sorts. Cycles fuel pump relay and tests readiness of the systm White pair = Read mode......Outputs stored codes The other big conenctors are for subaru SSM computer and a line end test port for the harness when it went in the car. Keep the pairs unhooked for regular driving. Plug BOTH sets together and run engine for 30 sec until CEL flashes to clear old codes.

well-known problem, you can get a slightly different new cap, and a new o-ring for probably under $80 or so. https://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/110-gen-2-2000-2004/41182-symptoms-fuel-pump-o-ring-problem.html

on both my cars, o-rings fixed the problem. don't over-torque the bolt on the elbow adapter , it can break - ask me how I know.

two issues: 1. is there a sunroof? clogged/disconnected drain tubes? 2. there are numerous posts about sealing the rear light assembly

I had changed the radiator in my 06 Forester and then the pump started making noise. Bubbles in the fluid. Some quality hose clamps on the hose at both ends solved the problem. Love those German rolled edge hose clamps. I use to pick them up in the UPAP yards as I went by BMW and others.

Looks like an EA82 engine? SPFI? The green ones are part of the ECU dignostic modes. There should be a similar pair of white ones for that also. The green and white diagnostic connectors should not be connected for normal operation. The yellow and black were for some dealer plug in diagnostic tool. The a/c pulse monitor box on the versions I've had to deal with was under the dashboard on the firewall. The year, model, etc. Make a difference on some of these parts.

I’d say remove the door and fit the new one while it’s still light weight! Then pull everything from the donor door and fit in the reverse order of how it all came off - I bet the door handle/latch mechanism will be last to come off, meaning first to go on. Cheers Bennie

Thank you, Sir. Also I missed a lot to be here, on USMB, it feels like Home I will post updates regarding on this subject, as anything occurs, but my Goal is to reach the Ten Years mark, which will happen next September, if the Timin' belts doesn't snap earlier ... Anyhow, the "Coverless" Setup has proven to be Better to help elongate the timing kit's Lifespan, without doubt; besides of making a service in that area / engine's front, much much easier. Greetings from the Caribbean, Honduras.

No special tools , you’ll do fine , just keep note of what you’ve removed and do one door at a time so you still have an original for reference. Many of us have done this and I’ve never had any big issue. Glass is tricky but put it on an angle when pulling it out of the tracks and pretty sure you’ll want to lift the rear end up lastly so you get that required angle to remove and then install. Door lock stuff requires a bit of patience most of the time and smaller fingers help. There you might find a spring hook helps but chances are a straight head screwdriver will get you through. Go at it , you’ll be fine.

Maybe you could find this Post... interesting: https://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/50983-strange-and-weird-subaru-stuff/?page=97&tab=comments#comment-1372612 Kind Regards.

Replace the suction hose and the O-ring under the pump on the nipple first. Use new hose clamps too. Try that first

Everything looks great! Get some wiring harness spiral wrap at Homeless Despot or auto parts store & wrap those brake lines to protect against flying rocks.

I leave it. LIved in Wisconsin for awhile. It's important to periodically get up in the wheelwell and clean off the lip. When I do that I pull the rubber off and clean it completely. Then push the rubber back on. Keeping road dust and salt from building up is the biggest factor.

The rear end is all together and DONE only thing I need to finish the lift is front extended brake lines which I’m going to order today. I used a Rancho RS7241 shock for the rear which is supposed to just be the better quality of the Rancho RS5241 ADF and SJR suggest I did have to drill out the upper mounting bracket on the shock to fit my bolts though they where too small

Completely off topic, but I'm glad to see you back. You've been missed. Dan

When one of mine went bad at about 30yrs, I got a new Subaru one. At $3.00 per year, an OEM one is not a bad deal. The only time I go cheap on those kind of parts is if It were a beater I planned on running until it broke from rust, and had no use for the engine as a spare.

Update- Bought the complete Aisin timing kit from Rock Auto and had my mechanic install it. Everything was a little under $700 including labor. The car runs great and I know it's got decent quality parts in there. The way it's going we'll likely need to replace the belt again from age instead of miles.

https://www.amazon.com/Subaru-A0910AS100-Engine-Block-Heater/dp/B00IGZQU1E Get the 35*F porcelain t-stat adapter there too: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006U2HD2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Does this kit look like a good one? https://www.amazon.com/AISIN-TKF-009-Engine-Timing-Water/dp/B0171KSFV2