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Some tips on replacing an EZ30 and 4EAT in a 2002 Outback (all stock): Move the large AC line along the firewall out of the way. Managed to pinch that a bit between the pitch stopper brackets when removing engine and trans and it started leaking where the hose is crimped to the line. Fortunately I have one from a parts car. Drain the trans. I had a drain pan under the tailshaft when I pulled the driveshaft out and at first nothing came out. Unfortunately to remove the engine and transmission I had to tip them at about a 45 degree angle which caused a few quarts of fluid to drain out. Some of this of course happened as I was moving it forwards and I didn't realize it wasn't all draining into the pan. Also, what I'd recommend replacing while it's out: spark plugs valve cover gaskets - these always seem to leak oil cooler gasket (orange o ring between cooler and block) - this leaks even more consistently 21370KA001 coolant hard lines and hoses on the bottom of the engine for oil cooler and heater hose - in the midwest these tend to get rusty, not too expensive from the dealer 807611060 99078AA110 807611071 21328AA053 14165AA014 807615030 thermostat and gasket 21200AA072 21236AA010 heater hoses - I've had one of these spring a leak on my 99 OB, the protective sleeve they put around them is a good idea but seems to make them dry rot underneath 72411AC020 72421EA02A I also replaced the trans filter inside the oil pan. There was some metallic debris in the pan but the screen filter was pretty clean. The radiator upper water necks are turning white too, not sure if that is a problem or not, but since it's probably the original radiator I'm replacing it and the radiator hoses. EDIT: I would also recommend getting new engine and trans mounts, especially if you are using the car off road. Both trans mounts were split but they have a stud with a rubber faced washer and a nut holding it from moving too far. All the engine mounts for these early EZ30s I've had off are either already split or cracked, some of them you could pull in half by hand. The engine mounts on my 2002 white Outback weren't too bad but I should replace the engine and trans mounts over the winter. At the same time I'll probably make a heavier duty replacement for the middle section of exhaust.

Look at the plastic liner in the fender well. It may be cracked and blowing backward into the tire, on;y at higher speeds (over 40)

Hey Ya'll I've been looking for pictures of people who have Two Tone painted their Old Gens and found a thread from...2006. For those who have been around here, ya it was post photo bucket collapse. All the photos were gone besides Miles Fox's. It was not a kind of thread. So I'm here to start a new one or be pointed to an existing one! Post your Two Tone photos here! I'm painting mine in the next two weeks. I'll post when it's all set. Cheers y'all!

Wow I had no idea my question about which timing belts to get would trigger a peeing contest about how much snow there is or isn't in Tahoe (for the record I have seen winters with a metric f%*k-ton of snow there and ones with not really any to speak of, let alone ski on) But anyway I figured I'd update: I went with the Gates from RA, and while I haven't put them on yet, the parts do say "Made in USA". Interestingly enough, this is the same brand as is on now, if the remaining belt is any indication (same part #) Eric

right on just sayin you might need to make new brackets cause your adding more lift

I was Born at Truckee hospital. Taken home to house on Dolly Varden street on the north Cali side of lake (Kings Beach). Olympic valley is also WAAY not close to Truckee. Closer to the lake at Tahoe City than to Truckee. Did you learn geography at the same place as grammar? That's also my point. It's an area, not just one specific place, and to get from one part to another can be a challenge in winter. People that live in the area frequently need to drive somwhere else than just the damn Lake. The entire area is surrounded by 8000+ ft mountains. Lake Tahoe residents have to deal with 15-25 or more feet of snow falling through the winter. Sometimes 10ft in one storm. Sometimes you have to leave for work before the plow goes through. And stopping to change a timing belt in the snow would probably make you late for your job. So be a cavalier macho "i don't need no stinking timing belt covers" kinda guy if you want. Try to gaslight the whole internet by telling us that "Lake Tahoe doesn't get much snow cause it's a 6000 ft." lol. That's like saying "Hawaii doesn't get THAT much sun because it isn't on the Equator" Seems like spending 15 more minutes putting timing covers on to protect the rollers from corrosion and keep the belt from being tossed by snow or mud would be the smarter options. Of course using punctuation is also the smart way to write, so, to the OP, make your own conclusion about who's advice is more sound. Running coverless is for summer weather street cars.

Everything is shades of grey and black - I frequently use a flashlight underhood and sometimes under the car - more so in the garage.

I also am no expert. If there are no trouble codes, perhaps there's a very specific issue with the cruise, maybe even in the roll connector/clockspring in the steering wheel. Does the horn work? Test at different wheel positions. Bad brake switch? Some issues can 'back feed' from bad/shorted brake light sockets.......even the wiring in the boot from body to hatch.....Or, there can be transmission and other controllers besides the ECU (TCU?) that could be involved. Some cars in 2005 to 2008,9 w'ever 'era' can have poor solder joints. Or, maybe some contact cleaner sprayed on the switch with some vigorous working up/down/forward/back w.ever could help? maybe someone else will respond.

Subaru Search USMB for EA81 thermostat part number:

Low budget suggestions years ago was to try a Y pipe from an EA82 on EA81 I did I don't know if the pipe is any larger diameter, though this claimed. Factory carby EA82 Y pipe is double skinned

Cracksmoking monkeys! Thats about the worst decision possible for a 37 year old car besides drive it off a cliff or drain all the fluids and race across the Sahara. With no temp gauge, in all likelihood it was running hot for awhile and you didn’t know it, and you were beating an injured elderly man while he’s down every time you drove it Hopefully you’ll find a simple solution...I’d want to diagnose it before guessing and throwing a bunch of parts and diagnosing it with money. Look for bubbling in the coolant overflow right after you start it (before the engine gets to normal operating temp or above Radiator - Run a garden hose to the radiator with both hoses pulled. Can it flow the volume of the garden hose (assuming you have a normally spec’d water supply)? If it’s clogged the inlet side will get all backed up, flow out and only a trickle or partial flow comes out the other side. Thermostat can be tested in boiling water. Install a new Subaru one if replaced. make sure radiator and everything in front of it is free of debris, bugs, clogs and not preventing airflow to the radiator

Oil condition rarely indicates headgasket integrity in Subaru engines. It's been rare on my experience to have coolant get into the oil. Around here, a radiator typically rots out in around 10 years. What matters - cap off the ports. fill it with water. Leave the cap off, highest point. Quickly release the cap on the bottom hose. The water should fall out fast, in a second or 2. Look at the thin copper fins that are vertically zigzagging between the tubes... are they intact, attached, and not blocked up with road crud? Especially look where there are sheet metal air guides for the fans. Are the end tanks metal or plastic?

I guess this is your 97 and it has AC. Here is the quickest way to check fuses and relays for the radiator fans if the fans are good. Under the steering side of the dash you will find two light green connectors. They are two terminal connectors, but there is only one wire in each. Plug those together and turn the ignition switch to ON. Do not start the engine. The fuel pump will cycle on and off, then the AC clutch will pull in and release, then both radiator fans should turn on low speed then go to high speed then turn off. This cycle will repeat until you turn the key off.

my 2002 Forester with the 4EAT also has over 232,000 on it and is doing fine. Tranny shifts smoothly, no problems at all.

I had the same thing happen with the hazard lights on my son's 97 Outback. Checked fuses and connections...nothing helped. My son went on the internet and found a suggestion for a repair. They said to smartly strike the dash with open palm near the hazard switch. I said ya right. I tried it and believe it or not, it worked. On the radio antenna, I had the same thing happen to my 98 Outback. The motor would work, but the antenna wouldn't raise. I got the replacement parts from Subaru and repaired the antenna. It worked for about two months but then quit again. If I had to do it over again I would just replace the antenna with an aftermarket one that doesn't retract and be done with it.

Im in colorado so its not terribly far but taking a 3 and 5 year old that far in a car would strain what little sanity i have left

There's no simple, repeatable way to do this. Calling rust free states is a better option but still not foolproof for a variety of reasons. There's two options: A. Install new bearings - don't drive it too long on bad bearing and the hub will be fine. This is recommended, ideal, and what most in the know people are doing....and for good reason. B. Gamble with your time and money on used knuckles and bearings. But that comes with ambiguity and risk which you seem to frequently post about so I don't know if that's a great fit for you. Expecting an intact ball joint after knuckle removal on a Northeast car is too much. I would be pleasantly surprised to see an intact ball joint on a removed northeast rust bucket.

With the hubs you can not verify the bearing is good or not until it's installed and you take it for a drive. Really bad ones are easy to spot, but other than that it's a roll of the dice.