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Ej22 is the swap most do. A lot of work, but you get a more serviceable engine that parts are still available for. 40% more power, with no reliability loss due to turbo complexity and stuff like that. But custom adapter plate, clutch setup, wiring harness work needed . Lots of swap information on this forum.

I would not be in a hurry to remove the carb for the problem you describe. Idle speed is too high.Try lowering it. Spec for manual trans is 700 +-100 so 600 would be OK.Should help a lot. If you are unable to go that low,the throttle body might be loose. I made my own gaskets. Make sure the EGR valve works-heads might be getting too hot w/o it. Try a tank or 2 of premium fuel. If all else fails,try a combustion chamber cleaner to remove carbon deposits. Here is an ea81T https://instagetter.net/photos/subarubrat-subaru-brat-ea81t1980scar-lessth-p-BxbbTBdFE3e

Maybe you don`t need a kit. Pretty common for the throttle body to come loose from the float bowl and mess up the idle. Hard to tell w/o removing the carb. You might find this worth reading https://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/170101-82-subaru-brat-ea-81-webercarter-rebuild-kits/ I have an 84 turbo wagon,but,I used to have an 82 GL wagon w/the carter weber.I liked it

I have bought and used the "do it yourself" rust proofing kits. They are rattle spray cans. Some cans for inside door application, some for metal exposed to the elements. They work well in my opinion. Just make sure the metal is clean and dry before spraying on outside metal. It has been a long time, since I have bought one of those kits. I don't know if they are even sold anymore. Worth checking out. Cost is cheap.

There are other sources for that over priced kit.https://www.carbkits.com/catalog/details/4355 You can get a whole carb here for not much more http://www.chicagocarburetor.com/carburetors-remanufactured.php?c=124

Debit card offers zero protection, they're just plastic check books. Most credit cards allow you to contest a payment pretty easily.

well too late for for that, trans is in the car guess ill find out when I throw the leaver. if all DL's and GL's had 3.90s I should be ok.....

I agree with the U joint diagnosis. Had a speed related hum on my '83 some years back, and my Subaru guru at Norm's Auto Repair in South Tahoe replaced them. No more hum. That was about 100,000 miles ago, at 292,000 miles.

Only if they had A/C (which most of them did). But they still had the mechanical. I ran a couple with just the A/C fan, but here in northern MN, we're not pushing cooling systems very hard. In AZ, I don't think you'd get away with that. Yea, remove it, measure the opening, buy a universal electric fan. Either use the included mounting "hardware" that pulls through the radiator (puts a little extra strain/vibration into your radiator, frequently it's fine), or make some brackets. Wire it through a relay, and either use a toggle switch, or you can utilize the factory switch for the existing electric fan (that one is wired without a relay, I would not put the load of 2 fans through it, though).

Dealer says nothing is wrong ......... They say they checked plugs and wires, did a compression test, and that the car suddenly drives fine. Hopefully it actually does work fine. Going to ask if they did a vacuum test, they said I shouldn't have aftermarket ignition coil, wires and plugs. Plugs are NGK so I'm not so worried about those. I'm pretty sure it's gonna come back as soon as I roll out of the lot though The ascent I had over the weekend was 10/10, pretty much self driving, so $150 for a 4 day rental on an ascent isn't too terrible. Those things can move, they're much much better than a crosstrek ( I had a 2019 crosstrek for a day as well) update: car threw cyl 2 and 4 misfire codes while they were pulling it up to send me on my way. No charge for diagnosis because the codes threw after we signed the $0 bill which I kinda feel bad about, so I had them replace coil pack, wires, and plugs for $475 installed. Results of compression test are cyl 1 200psi cyl 2 195psi cyl 3 200psi cyl 4 185psi not a bad price for diagnosis, compression test, OEM parts and an Ascent rental car for 6 days. EDIT: removed a line

Actually I do mean when idling in gear, like stopped at a light, which is why I joked "demonic possession". Makes no sense, but there it is anyway! Throw the car in neutral and the vibration disappears. It has been suggested that transmission mount may be at fault (and I do have one that is torn) but I had no issue prior to replacement of axle.

Cut the oil filter and check for metal. Could be a timing belt tensioner - hard to tell from the video. If it's a rod, you will see metal in the filter. DO NOT drive it. You will wreck the cylinder heads and they are EXPENSIVE. Best deal going is the Subaru reman short blocks for about $2350. Cylinder heads will need complete disassembly and cleaning - especially the intake rocker assembly - of all contaminated metal. In the US this is usually about a $5,000 to $6,000 repair. GD

Agreed. Very shady to not respond and just delete the post!

$200 for a FT4wd box all day ? Gimme!

This is not the first time the dude has taken 100-200 reminders to respond or square up. We have had bad experiences as well and I know of many others... And $500 is a huge number. I see them online for 200 all day.... I saw the first post and it had a lot of support. Then was deleted? Not Cool at all!

I highly recommend Ziebart undercoating. It's $400, and they coat the entire underside of your car and will spray where you tell them to if you ask nicely. I think they do a converter followed by a rubberized black undercoating. They drill into the top of the rocker under the doorsill and completely coat the inside of the rockers, the inside of the doors, the inside of the rear hatch, and inside the rear doorsill/quarterpanel. It quiets the cabin quite a bit as well. Reapplication is $40, again covering the entire under body. My impreza in on her 3rd michigan winter after moving from north carolina and the underbody is still 100% rust free. My friends 02 Duramax has had great results as well. I swear I don't work there lol, just a happy customer. I'm 90% sure I have the cleanest n/a old subie in michigan

Cheap knock sensors are a REALLY bad idea. Just because the sensor meets the ECU's expectations of circuit resistance says NOTHING about it's ability to accurately profile the noise from the engine and trigger the ECU's knock detection threshold correctly. The sensor is a piezoelectric microphone and buying the cheap ebay ones is the equivalent of buying dollar store earbuds and trying to listen to high definition audio. The accuracy of the sensor depends on MUCH more than the resistance of the circuit used by the ECU to determine if it's failed or not. They are also "tuned" to listen to specific kilohertz frequency ranges. Anything from about 2Khz to 17Khz can be found on different engines and the determining factor on knock sensor frequency is largely the bore and stroke of the engine. So for reasons of accurate knock detection it is a bad idea to give the ECU a different model of sensor other than what it was designed to listen to. GD

I recommend the OEM Subaru sensor. I don't mess with aftermarket parts. Search with your VIN on https://www.subarupartsdeal.com/ for the sensor. Hope this helps.

Sounds like a really good idea for here in Pa. Wish I had done that 10 years ago. I have had to repair left and right rear strut towers on our 95 RHD Legacy Wagon. When you do the right rear, you might be able to give the fuel filler tube a bit more life also.

Noise is not normal. Failing universal joints can cause this kind of noise. Check them first. Wheel bearings can make a noise, but you can't tell condition by looking - unless you took the bearings apart. If the axle nuts were tight, and the seals were good, they are probably ok.

https://www.oreillyauto.com/shop/b/fuel---emissions-16775/carburetors---parts-16801/carburetor-12234/840def96ca83/1982/subaru/brat