Durania

Very strong possibility you put too much in it. Quit using it and take it to a place that works on A/C and have them get the level right.

Boooo!

Nice job painting the valve covers. I just installed the same gaskets a few months ago myself.

My RS started doing that a few months after a HG replacement.

I would take the airbag back out and make sure everything clicks. It has to be something simple. Do you think you could have gotten a defective part?

I had a faulty radiator cap do the same thing.

Any chance you broke the clockspring? Does turn signals and horn still work?

Love the pictures. JDM tails was the best thing I did for my wagon.

Fit yes. Think you just need to make sure that both engines are EGR or non-EGR. You will also need to swap intake manifolds.

This. GR-2's are what you want. No need in putting KYB AGX's on this thing.

I strongly recommend a torque wrench on that bolt. It needs to be torqued to spec of 41 ft/lbs. This writeup is for an STi but they theory is all the same. http://www.iwsti.com/forums/how-install/85672-complete-idiots-guide-spring-installation.html

Good to know. I was lazy back in the winter and took my wagon through the automatic car wash. That sure did take that decal off!

Option B 24

Yes, you will need a spring compressor. You can rent one at advance auto or buy one for cheaper. The bolt size is a 19mm as well. Best to have a wrench in that size too. What I have: http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_Kit-1--Strut-Spring-Compressor-Kit-%282--piece%29-Powerbuilt-Tools_9150007-P_N3492_T|GRP2083_____ If you add that to your car, and add something cheap like a battery washer or something just to get it over $50.00 you can use a coupon code from here: http://www.retailmenot.com/view/advanceautoparts.com Make sure and do in store pickup. Of course this depends on an advance auto being close to you.

Just tell them you want KYB GR-2's.

I had to have that replaced on my rs. It was causing me about 4 different clutch release points and a squeak that would not go away.

I had a stock Exedy clutch put back in my RS. Worked just fine. The 99 does use a hydraulic operated clutch.

This covers a 99 2.5RS but the procedure is the same. http://www.rs25.com/forums/f105/t128163-diy-clutch-replacement-pictorial.html

Agreed. Your slave cylinder needs to be replaced. It is not included in a standard clutch replacement job.

First time checking this thread in a while. We welcomed our first born on Wednesday, little boy. Trying to adjust to the new swing of things. Yeah, it wasn't a fun job to do in my driveway at 9 at night with a flashlight in my mouth.

Got ya. Oh, and I did change this thing with a full tank of gas. The only fuel that was last was maybe a cup that was in the fuel nozzle itself.

I got the parts in yesterday. I had every intent on doing the job when I got home from work yesterday except it came a thunderstorm on my way home so I said screw it. 2 hours later I got stir crazy and decided to tackle the job. Aside from it being a real tight fit, it wasn't that bad. I did notice one thing between the old part and the new one. The old one had an orange flapper valve at the end of the neck where it met the gas tank hose and the other one did not. I didn't want to develop some issues where the pump would not kick off when fuel was almost full so I swapped it into the new one. Better safe than sorry. it caught me off guard because every post I read did not mention that valve.

Then yes, it will be susceptible to head gasket failure. Look under it for leaking coolant or oil as well as the overflow tank in the engine bay for gunk.

Are you throwing a check engine light? If so, go get the code pulled and bring the code back here and post it. What brand plugs and wires did you use?

Tom sent me a front embelm badge and two others in an envelope just like that. The panda bear is what seals the deal. Thanks again man!