subiemech85

silicone lube crc 5-56 dielectric grease windex

use only genuine vise grips from the irwin company

and even the SAABS, 900 up to about '87 just think from one airplane company to another

and then there was the ea71t

cap must be tight, especially if the frantz dumps into the filler tube if it ain't leakin, it's out

I don't know what everybody's problem with the ea71 is, especially when you consider in stock form the ea81 only has 4 more hp with a few easy common upgrades, it will serve fine and feel like it has more power and better sound 1. NO CATS, it's old enough NOT required 2. swap in electronic ignition 3. swap in XT6 alt 4. swap in weber the single range, although different, doesn't seem to have the quirks of the d/r, and is adequate on mud roads in 2 and 3 gear 4 gear is great for cruising end of rant $100 bought the ski wagon for $100

buy your self some 1/4, 3/8, 1/2, 5/8, and 3/4 low pressure hydraulic hose, either 200 or 500 psi no wire reinforced braided vinyl also works, great to see flow watch for clutch lever abrasion on heater hose and the little hoses are a booger to change heat? in a subaru??? not when you need it LOL!!!

find the d-check connectors, IIRC green with a brown wire??? turn OFF key switch connect D/check connectors turn ignition ON ECS lamp "should" be ON fuel pump "should" operate intermettently, turn on and off every 1.5 sec. start engine ECS lamp on, with ignition on, check for the fault code by observing the O2 monitor lamp of the control unit (codes 11-42) if no ECS lamp, ask for more help, as that is on page 2

take a good look at the seal measure the ID, OD, and width in MM ex. 32-47-8 the numbers should also appear on the seal the brand usually does not make much difference, and styles may vary then look up the seal at SKF http://www.chicago-rawhide.com/catalogs/457010/stocklookup.asp then call your seal supplier and provide them with the dimensions and the skf stock # the seal from the example is 12733 which happens to be for bosch type ve injection pump input shaft seal, IIRC

use "JOHN DEERE BREAK IN OIL" to break in engine use a UV dye to find the leak

make sure the wires at the alt. is good on my brat, disconnect wire and everything is dead use carb cleaner instead of ether ceck the cap, rotor, plugs, fuel supply

and at what speed will they begin to levitate and then fly up?????

check your fuel, did you put E-85 in?, COULD have a bad tank of gas will it run better if you keep it above 3-4k? the tps should show a nice steady change in ohm's as you go from open to close, be sure to follow the setting procedure with feeler gauges make sure timing is set to 10* btdc, you have ngk bpr9ey-11 plugs and a cap and rotor MADE IN JAPAN unplug the maf sensor and see what happens you should have atleast a "ok" code

http://www.mdalign.com/products.html find a copy of Truck Wheel Alignment A Common Man's Guide by Mike***Beckett it describes several ways to do alignment with simple tools

you may want to go with an optima yellow top, better suited for that application you are better off going with a pb h2so4 aka lead acid maintenance type battery interstate batteries are good, and if you want to save $$ you can buy an "econo" or "blemi" if your alt. is outboard mount, go with the xt6 90A the "GM" alt. swap is somewhat common, and both swaps have been written up, SEARCH!!!!!!! or be satisfied with a mono system or something else low powered, no body wants to hear your resonance or farts

the problem with a "GM" type thermostat is that it does NOT have the jiggle pin, which is an absolute must have if in a pinch, you can drill a 1/8" hole

keep the ea71 unless you can find a ea71t "upgrading" to a ea81 is hardly worth the 4 hp gain switch to a weber and electronic dist. if you want more power while you are at it, install an xt6 alt.

do you and your engine a favor check air intake system for restrictions, stick on a subspeed kit with uni filter check ignition system for proper performance, change cap and rotor to napa premium made in japan, switch to accel 8140c coil -- but keep the old one, and the #1 thing to do is put in NGK BPR6EY-11 check the fuel system, change the filter to a pruolator, inspect the fuel lines install quality vac/boost guage with small dia line, 1/8" iirc, hook the line to the port on the intake manifold that has a square head plug in it if the line is larger or longer than necessary, there will be unacceptable delay use a short hose from wastegate port to turbo outlet port inspect the cooling system, make sure you use a NAPA SUPERSTAT or genuine subaru thermostat of the correct temp. with jiggle pin change oil, filter, and drain plug gasket use a high quality diesel engine rated oil, CH4+ is the "current" rating, do not skimp as the turbo and hlas will suffer if you do, you should be able to run 15w40 or 15w50 year round but adjust as needed according to climate AVOID FRAM oil filters, they are JUNK. PUROLATOR and WIX are good, along with their private label brands, the "ADVANCE AUTO" AA3600 filter is a PUROLATOR in a red package with a textured outside to hold onto, and when you install the filter, put the bejeses to it, otherwise it may vibrate loose and pour out oil BUY CLEAN FUEL AND KEEP IT CLEAN E-85 will work fine if you know what you are doing and how to drive with it it helps if you have 2g of regular to 13g of E-85, but adjust to your particular needs E-85 will give you the capability of making more boost with stock turbo and exhaust, even with significant exhaust leaks if you want to watch AFR, buy a lambda system

do you and your engine a favor check air intake system for restrictions, stick on a subspeed kit with uni filter check ignition system for proper performance, change cap and rotor to napa premium made in japan, switch to accel 8140c coil -- but keep the old one, and the #1 thing to do is put in NGK BPR6EY-11 check the fuel system, change the filter to a pruolator, inspect the fuel lines install quality vac/boost guage with small dia line, 1/8" iirc, hook the line to the port on the intake manifold that has a square head plug in it if the line is larger or longer than necessary, there will be unacceptable delay use a short hose from wastegate port to turbo outlet port inspect the cooling system, make sure you use a NAPA SUPERSTAT or genuine subaru thermostat of the correct temp. with jiggle pin change oil, filter, and drain plug gasket use a high quality diesel engine rated oil, CH4+ is the "current" rating, do not skimp as the turbo and hlas will suffer if you do, you should be able to run 15w40 or 15w50 year round but adjust as needed according to climate AVOID FRAM oil filters, they are JUNK PUROLATOR and WIX are good, along with their private label brands, the "ADVANCE AUTO" AA3600 filter is a PUROLATOR in a red package with a textured outside to hold onto, and when you install the filter, put the bejeses to it, otherwise it may vibrate loose and pour out oil BUY CLEAN FUEL AND KEEP IT CLEAN E-85 will work fine if you know what you are doing and how to drive with it it helps if you have 2g of regular to 13g of E-85, but adjust to your particular needs E-85 will give you the capability of making more boost with stock turbo and exhaust, even with significant exhaust leaks if you want to watch AFR, buy a lambda system

EC34PT-05 2-STROKE 340 have any tips? know of them?

SEARCH http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=50603&highlight=DIESEL

while you're at it, put on the xt6 alt instead I used a washer as a shim, added a case ground, and ran a alternator output wire from a vw, 8ga iirc, and another alternator output wire, and used a side post battery plug as an insulating adapter, works great

NOS = New Old Stock if you want more go, put in NGK BPR6EY-11, install a weber, and use E-85 I know, BTDT

go quality!!!!! small = cobra 19+ good features = uniden bearcat pcxt693l? good antenna, easy on budget, strong magnet, "powerful" = wilson "little wil" best place to mount is usually middle of roof, run cable as needed when on the wagon, it was on middle of roof, ran cable through front side of rear door on left side, run cable down, under seat, along center conlsole, to the SWR meter, short cable to cb which was leaning up on passenger side trans. bumpout, or on seat if all is good, it will sound like talk'n on a LL I bought the cobra and mic from ebay, SWR meter from goodwill, "jumper" cables and antenna from radioshack, and the uniden and little wil from an independent shack, for "common" supplies, truck stops tosh, you can buy a "dummy load"

just watch EARL, Joy hauled the kids in the back in a rainstorm !!!!! EARL has it's own thread!