MilesFox

ok, torxx the turbo 3at is 23 splines. you were wrong on the spline cound but i can say you are correct if i enlighten you on this: the 3at turbo is the only 23 spline axle with teh fatter diameter doj that would fit on a 25 spline axle so on this note turbo 3at dojs can be used to convert 25 spline axles to 23 splines caleb a ea82 flywheel will fit on an ea81, just the bolys are skinnier, but the flywheel still cnters on the crank snout, and torques down the same. the only thing is the timing marks will be different. vincent the axles in the hath will fit the dual range. are you still doing the ea82 conversion, or just doing the tranny for now till you figure out the strut caps. hey if you got the pedal box and cable figured out then you are good to go!! i think somewhere in the stash is an ea81 flywheel, but it was from a 2wd so it wont work i have a whole flywheel,clutch,pp from an xt you can use it, newer disc. as long as you have the bolts its all good. dont forget to grind away the bottom of the engine bellhousing to clear the starter teeth. make a note of the ea81 timing mark from the flexplate to the ea82 by matching the flywheel bolt pattern so you can scribe the ea81 mark on the ea82 flywheel im off monday till 9 pm so i can come by and give you a hand anyway about the rear axles ea82's are too long, but you can build the ea81 axle shafts with the ea82 doj and bearings, so long as you have good axle boots. i will tell you now it will be a waste to build the axles if you dont get good boots, as they wont last a week the first time they see mud. from what i have seen i would think that the ea81 and ea82 rear axle boots will be the same, as well as the same for the inner front axle boot for non turbo axles

hey i got a whole setup from this xt tranny. i can let you get it i can always get one of john or jims later, or from the c-bus yards. im a lot closer and can deliver, i dont have anything to put it on right now and both my rides have new clutch discs. this xt set looks to have been recently replaced into the car i got it from, so use it as is and be good to go! saves you a trip or having to wait for me to go get one. i dont work monday till 9 pm, so i can stop over and deliver it to you

here is my preferred method, it would be tha smame procedure as using the pickle fork but without one, and its less to unbolt thant the lower control arm disconnect, plus it gives more room to move things out of the way what i do is removet he nut from the ball joint stud, and plae a hydralic jack against the stud so the jack loads up the suspension by the stud only. then what you do is shock the tension loosel as you would tapping on the dise of a tie rod to pop it out. with teh suspension loaded up the lower control arm will have downward tension from the sway bar. tap around the lower control arm closest to the ball joint with a good sized hammer. the dead blows will break the tension and the lower control arm will pull away. now woth it loose you will have to push down on the lower control arm to get the stud to come out of its hole, i find iy best to use a long bar or pipe across the top of the lower control arm between the axle, wedge it up near the radius rod on the fram, and push down on it with my knee to move the lower control arm down enough to get the ball joint out. also i do this to put it back together i find this easier than the lower control arm disconnect, but it take some tehnique it may take a few attempts to do this effectively, but once you get it apart you will have developed the technique already

well since the 4wd with open front and rear diffs, the torque transfer is spread diagonally, that is in 4wd, one front and one rear will be locked in, and the others will spin freely aside from the difference in treads and being the same size, i would either put 2 like tires on one side of the car, or put one in front and the other opposite in back. that way you will have a tire each on each diff that will rotate at the same speed, and the difference in size for the other tires will be absorbed by the center diff this is what i would do if the tires are and difference in size, or slightly different diameter for tires of the same size anyway i can see what jim wants to do, keep like treads on the front axle for 2wd and steering. if running 2wd the differences wont affect anything, and if you use 4wd on 4wd friendly conditions this would have little to no effect. i have different makes of tires on the sedan and it does fine in 4wd, like the snow, slush, or patchy conditions honestly in my opinion from my understanding of the 4wd system's wotkings i wouldnt worry about the differences in make how you want to put them on the front and rear respectively. and if tread design want a concern with me i would put them diagonally from eachother let them speculate but i have used 4wd with odd size tires, diagonally as long as each 2 sets are the same size to eachother

sounds like the temp sensor for the ecu. its located on the back of the intake with a brown connector that looks like the ones on the injectors, 2 wires. the car will run fine till it warms up, then it wont know what to do, and if it stalls, good luck starting it till she cools off. my turbo wagon did this and i narrowed it down to the ecu temp sensor. sometimes just cleaning the contacts in the connector will fix the problem. the sensor is a variable resistor, and corrosion will change the resistance values and thus the ecu reads a wrong signal try cleaning the contacts to see if that helps, then check the ecu codes per the USRM link on the top in the miscellaneous section

i have a 2" cherry bomb on the sedan, immediately after the y pipe. i have run the car y pipe only, y and bomb, y, bomb and straight pipe here are the results" open y pipe will scream in the upper rpm, break a wheel loose if accelerating out of a turn. but the takeoff is slow so you have to slip the clutch a little to get past the bog, i found myself taking gears up or downshifting becuase it doesnt want to pull at low rpm, 200-2500 rpm. but on the highway you have excellent throttle response and your foot is light on the gas. but city driving this will hurt you because you are always in a lower gear and higher rpm y pipe and glasspack, i have the 18" long cherry bomb although i probably should have used the longer one. anyway, this brought some torque for the low rpm take offs, and improved mid gear pull, i didnt have to winf her up, and she would pull the next gear at the same speed and load. it did choke down the higher rpm acceleration, but that was made up for by shifting sooner and pulling from 2000 rpm. this improved on city driving y pipe, glasspack, straight pipe. I later installed a 2 in pipe back to the rear diff. this quieted the car down considerably and took the noise out from under the passenger area. the torque was good for low rpm, the car pulls excellent from 2000 rpm, and actually broadened the torque curve to 3500 rpm, as the straight pipe kept the velocity of the exhaust pulse on the highway the revs arent as quick as i like them to be, but she gets up good by shifting at 3500 rom and pulling from 2500. once you get to speed, around 3-3500 rpm, she holds her speed with little pedal effort, and the pipe still flows like it should but my results are compared to running with no exhaust rather than running with a stock exhaust. overall im happy and the car is very driveable, and would have good off road characteristics on the highway averaging 65-70 mph for 360 miles for a full tank i got 27 mpg

the haynes book has fluid capacities, so should the subaru owner's manual. agreed a write up would be nice!

it will also affect the cruise control

all 5 spd 4wd uses the same clutch disc, this includes single range, dual range, turbos and full time also. supposedly awd ej clutches are the same i do know for a fact that ej and ea fwd 5spds use the same disc

if you jack the car on the side put the jack against the tube frame just ahead of the rear wheels. that is all on the suspension, so it wont crush the body. be wary of jacking along the pinch welds this is a subaru and not some GM

yeah i had this spfi dl with a 3at 2wd, the motor was bad and i used a carb block, it was a dog but i blame it more on the transmission do you plan to build up a turbo on the xt6? maybe you can consider carb pistons, as they work with turbos in stock boost applications, but i would avoid this for high boost applications without aftermarket engine management/intercooler

john and jason see what you can pull together for another alliance meet, you guys know the columbus area so whatever you can come up with it will be good for sure

i used one for my 3 in lift but i extended the piece on the rack, the angle was a little sharp on the double u joint so extending that piece itself sounds like a better idea. i had taken out my lift and shortened the piece for the rack and had non lifted ea81 with the ea82 u joints

on ea82 the holes wont be ther but they will be for ea81, for all that i have seen in my ea81 i went from fwd 5spd and i had to beat out the tunnel for a 4wd 5spd from ea82, cut a hole in the side. the 4spd isnt as big so it wont take as much as mine and most kikely wont have to cut anything. the tranny tunnes will be different for whatever tranny came with, but the auto tunnel will be the biggest

glad to hear you got the oil p. gauge working! did you need an adapter? dont be afraid to post that is why this is a message board

as far as off road you will have better control when reversing down a hill, better stopping power backwards and such, way way better, helps aginst the front wheels locking up on an inclune so you help out with your steering control

my last car was driven in excess of 30 miles with NO gear oil. topped it off and it made the 2000 mile trip home, and the tranny still works in another car. i would bet it holds up for a good while, if its not damaged now(it still works) it wont wear any more than it is now with gear oil. how long was she dry? another one of my cars had a little but of a diff noise when i got it but i never had any trouble out of it

you can swap on an ea82 carb, if yours is the hitachi(throttle on passenger side). you can swap the whole intake if you do a fwe slight modifications

try dopuble clutching or rpm matching when you shift, as this will halp the gear go in the inner end of the axle is rebuildable, you can service it without having to press the axle out of the knuckle, if you pop the ball joint or unbolt the lower control arm. there is a roll pin that holds the inner side onto the tranny, 3/16" drift punch, the holes align one way so dont be 180 off. insert the punch before you drive the oin to make sure its aligned ask to know when the timing belts were last serviced. a timing belt faulure is really the only thing that will leave you stranded, bot nothing is damaged if this were to occur. the timing belts should be replaced every 60,000 miles, so if yyou dont know may as well replace them. and as far as the motor comes apart to do the timing belts, it would be a good time to inspect or replace the engine seals, water pump while its apart. do all this and the motor will be good for another long while before you have to worry about it, so long as the cooling system is in good working order to prevent over heating and head gasket faulure

the mpfi non turbo and turbo ecu is the same on xts, it will run a turbo just the same. the only thing different is the groundin on one of the pinouts that identifies the ecu as na or turbo, you can mke the right ground to let the ecu identify itself as a turbo the non turbo pistond are 9,5 compression, the turbo pistons are 7.7 compression. going turbo in this would be the same as building turbos on an spfi block. you can do this so long as you know what to expect, and to tune your engine management accordingly. a surbo and its exhausts will bolt on, as well as the water pipe, but you will have to tap the back of the head for the oil line, or run a custom lenght off the oil ump. you will also have to add a oil return line for the turbo, a 1/2" fitting rubber hose. you would be better off finding a complete turbo motor, as it will plug and play, if you have the spider intake you can keep that but you will have to plumb in the turbo inlets. you can use a carb block for 9.0 compression, and swap your heads with the modifications in mind what else would be ideal if you keep your short block is to get some turbo heads for the the fittings, and the turbo cams. you will want turbo cams or have the stock cams reground to have less valve overlap fr the turbo. if you go this route you can also change out the pistons. you can swap in turbo pistons, but if you like the idea of higher compression carb pistons will be ideal for running stock engine manegement. ea82 carb pistons are 9.0 and ea81 pistons are 8.5, any of these pistons will fit the same. spfi pistons are the 9.5 as well as the pistons in the motro you have now

for axles with 25 splines, the doj from a 3at turbo axle can be swapped on for use with 23 spline trannies. its the same diameter as the 25 spline doj, but has 23 splines. the 3at turbo is the only 23 spline large diameter doj. sometimes when you buy a remanufactured axle you may get a 3at, it has a the same shaft diameter as 25 spline turbo axles, 3 bands on the outer end. i have seen 3at axles on other models because the original axles have been changed out

also the bracketry for the choke actuation on jims carb is missing, there are 2 holes on the throttle bracket that looks to take screws for additional linkage does anyone have a picture of the choke mechanismes how it is supposed to be for front mounted, throttle on the passenger side, electric choke pull off looks as if the linkages were removed to clear the distrubutor. any pics would help as i could make something for jim if have an idea of what its supposed to look like

what i would do is go with a cherry bomb or no muffler at all what i find to be ideal is the glass pack at the downpipe flange and stright pipe out the back. the glass pack will give a deep mellow sound and the pope back will take the sound out from under the car, and reduce the pulsing sounds

#2 if you have no ac and there is no fan you will most likely have the short style 105mm water pump. if you lok at the pulley tou will notice it bolts onto the pump, but there should be 4 additional holes where you can install studs and a clutch fan. if you ever buy a water pump, get the short 105mm if the pulley looks as described, and it will come with the studs for the clutch fan(napa) or you could deebo them from a parts car, studs, nuts, and fan. use 2 rereches to lock 2 nuts together on a stud, the turn the inside nut to remove the studs #3 the binding of the 4wd is drom the difference of rotation between the front and rear axles. although the frotn and rear are open diffs, one of the tires on the front will be locked in with one of the tires on the back, diagonally from eachother, depending on turning or traction. if you have 2 wheels off the ground either on the same side or diagonally from eachother, the car wont go. you can test this by jacking the car up by one side, putting it in 4wd and and in gear, and those tires in the air will spin, 2 of them, because the other 2 on the ground will be idle through the open differentials. the torque from the motor will go to the wheels with the least resistance, the ones off the ground 4# you can engage hi range without the clutch as long as you are not decelerating or accelerating, but you can at a constand speed/load. you will want to use the clutch to engage lo range, you can do it at the same speed aslong as you shift up as you do so before releasing the clutch. 5th gear lo is just a tad but taller than 3rd gear high, so this speed and rpm at 3rd gear would be ideal to go from 2wd or hi to low at the same speed. the 4wd should only be used on surfaces with 10% slippage, heavy rain on pavement, snow, ice, and gravel are ideal surfaces to use 4wd. if you have trouble disengaging 4wd try backing up to releive any bind as you push down on it. the wheels need to be pointed straight so make soure you travel at least a car length or 2 straight before you disengage #5 sounds like bad brake shoes. if it gets too bad they can fall out, and if so, the wheel cylinder will hyper extend and may blow a seal. if you can get the nut off and the drum is stuck to the axle sytb, you will have to use a puller or do a porr mand stick by removing the rear axle, and popping the axle stub out as you would on a front axle, be careful not to damage the thread. put the nut on backwards so its flush with the end of the axle stub(to heep it from mushrooming), butt the round end of a ball peenen hammer to the depression on the end, and whack the ball peene with a 3lb hammer to drive it out. #6 the stock alternator will handle a pair of 100 watt halogens just fine if its in sound shape. 30 amp alts have a green band, 60 amps have orange band. you will be most likely to find the 60 amp on gl-10 with air suspension or xt's with air. othe makes of japanese cars may have them also, if the mounting looks the same. i think the 60 amp with the orange band is of mitsubishi manufacture. black band alternators from xt6 are 90 amp, but the mounting is slightly different and will have to be modified. a lot of times remanufactured 30 amp altrernators will have the bands painted black. the best place to mount flood lighes i have found would be on the bumper. on 87 and up the bumpers are styrofoam under the shin on top, and 85-86 bumpers are metal. you can mount them on the bottom of the 87 and up bumpers if you cut out between the holes behid it to get a wrench on the nut, once you drill mounting holes. the onlt thing bad about lights under the bumper is once you bottom out say good bye to them! i had them this way on the rx, but i removed them. i made a light bar for the top of the bumper by narrowing a spar from an ea81 roof rack. i tried to do this to an ea82 rack but i couldnt get the screws out, and plus the curvature will make it off. you can use the whole thing like it is but it will be wider than the grille. i made mine the same width as the grille. mine is fastened with self tapping lag screws like you would mount wall dispenders to concrete walls. it bites through the skin enough to hold it on, but the bar will flex a little with the skin. you could tap the holes and use fine thread screws as well. lights on the top will do you no good for night driving, as they will light up the sky and the top of trees. if its raining snow of fog it will white you out like brights in fog. the 100 watts dont point down enough to shine in front of the car. the plastic 55 watts you can point them down to the road in fronnt of the car, but it wont do any good for far away lighting. the flood lights on the bumper is best because you can point them straight ahead down the road. point the bumper lights as far as you can see them lighting the road way ahead of the car, not too high off the road, and not too close to the car. as far as lights on the top i have them there for a specific purpose. i have them mounted to the roof rack, they point down immedialtely past the hood, for baja'n in tall grass where your headlights will be blocked out, the roof lights will let you see. they are good for trails in the woods because they will light up trees and obstructions in close proximity. you can mount another smaller set to the sides of the rack for alley lights, so you can see beside the car when baja'n trails 7. you wont have to jack up the car to get under it! also good for urban type situations if you like to take shortcuts across the berms in mall traffic 8. try clocking the throttle position sensor one way or the other, take it off and shake it to see if it rattles. if so its bad. may want to replace it if clocking it doesnt fix it. jim woods car did this and i took the throttle sensor off and shook it, it was rattling so something was obviously broken inside. replacing it fixed the problem. also check and clean all the onnections on the engine harness and the temp sensor on the thermostat housing(2 wires green clip) 9. you can go so far but the intake bolt holes will be offset and the valves will be closer to the pistons. make sure you know how far the valves move by the cam profile, you will want to find some numbers for spfi valve train so you can determine how far is safe to go.

you can fix this by replacing the hub that bolts to the rotor, sounds like it stripped the splines. easy to fix so long as the splines on the axle are not stripped. the metal on the axle should be hgarder than the cast iron hub, so you may be in luck