ocei77

The "easiest" route is from the bottom. But the last swap I did about 2 mos ago, no matter how I tried. the swivel would always be at the wrong angle and locked up preventing me from turning the bolt. I have pulled axle pins before, but this time I did it from above both off and on, and yes it was an auto. O,

Raise the car as much as you can on stands to give you room to maneuver. A ratcheting open end from above also works as long as the heater hoses are not connected. O.

Sensor 1 Bank 2. First cat, first sensor on passenger side. Bank 1 is driver side. A search will get you the fsm for that year. O.

You probably have 5! The 04 and early 05 was the first pzev engine for the CA emissions states. As such they borrowed the header design from the H6 engine. You should have two equal length headers each with their own cat and a cat after the Y. The first 2 cats have 2 O2 sensors and the 3rd one has 1. O.

Use some type of suction in the spark plug hole, to get as much as you can out. A hair dryer should get the rest. O.

As Matt167 stated. Heads, intake, and everything related to ignition timing from your DOHC to the SOHC EJ 251-253 from 01-05. Need to swap the dipstick tube also. May have to change the flexplate. Should be no codes, for the ecu will only see what your 98 harness tells it. Any codes you may get will not be related to the swap. If your new block does not have egr, there is a workaround. Do a search for how. O.

Download the FSM and get all the info you need there. It does work on coolant temp.So the ect sensor must not be defective and the iac itself should not be carboned up. O.

Make sure the hose in the overflow bottle is cut at a slant so that it doesn't just suction to the bottom. There was a TSB about this a while back. O.

wire wheel , anti seize and reuse. Auto stores carry them, but you may have to use washers. O.

Get OEM,NGK or other high quality wires. O.

1) Put tee on driver side hose, it is the in side. 2) There is a special procedure for bleeding the system] of air. Try a search for Burping, should find a few. Not sure if your radiator has a bleeder screw. If it does, would be on passenger side top. 3) There is a drain petcock on the lower passenger side. I find it easier to undo the lower hose. When filling, start with fluid into the upper radiator hose. Then radiator. The EJ engines Tstat is on the bottom of the block so very little goes through until it opens. By then you have a large air pocket which will take a lot of time to be rid of. Use oem or Stant's Xactstat for T stat. O.

In the FSM, mechanical components section , then heater. You can probably figure it out from there. O.

Go to www.opposedforces.com. b12 series. Intake and supply system. Also in New FAQ sticky above page 2 under my name there is a link to FSM. O.

Yes they are the same for all the EJ engines at least up to '07 for sure. If you can measure it properly. should be no reason why a generic one won't work. O.

Loosen bolt and rotate the cord then retighten. Generally the cord from the sensor ends up @1 o'clock position. Obviously clear code after you rotate.The run. O.

Its stamped on the back of the rotor,. The front is 22mm IIRC. O.

Although you may have had good experience with Evergreen, I would not use them for this case. The EJ25 requires an MLS type of HG. Subaru HG are only about $40-45 ea. from the dealer, online even cheaper. Six Star or Cometic would be my next choice. Use the Subaru HG designed for their turbo, part ending in 642. Gates T belt kit with pump sb about $200.. This is not where to go cheap. What engine do you have in your car? The 99OB had a dohc ej25 while the kit you listed is for an Ej22! You do not need head bolts. You will need the exhaust, intake manifold and probably the VC gaskets. You will also need the cam seals. A little more searching will show better quality parts. O.

It's time for a change. The interval is 100K or 105 months, whichever comes first. Don't wait. O.

If it is the header flange, it may be able to be repaired.. I'd fix or replace this first, swapping the O2 sensor as needed.. Then clear the code. If the code returns, then I'd do the sensor. O.

They will not change unless you have the calipers also. The GT rotors are 12.3 F and 11.3 Vented R, while the 06 has 11.5 F and 10.6 solid rear. O.

Best to have yours turned. This way all of the journals will be one size. A lot easier to get bearings this way. If yours is rash, check craigslist for a part out or bad engine. O.

Since BustedFinger has that part of it's site down, the best idea I have is to try over on NASIOC or RS25. O.

According to opposedforces. The rear is not a strut in the normal sense, but a shock with a high mounted perch seat. It has a pass through bolt hole on the bottom. Will have to check with the mfg of springs and talk to them re this application. O.

Extra long needle nose pliers. Hemostats/ locking fisherman's pliers (to remove hooks) may have enough grip to pull it out. O.

Haven't watched the video, but all you really need is the 10-12 in socket extension. A swivel joint would help, but not mandatory. The only thing you should need to remove is the airbox period. Anybody that works on cars needs a magnetic pickup. Just note the angle of the cord and replace similarly. O.