ocei77

Get the belt kit, but just install the belt and start. Will tell you if you've bent valves. If not, remove then add the idlers etc. Leave the rear main alone. 99.5 times out of a 100 it's the oil separator plate. Also do the o ring on the drivers side piston pin access plate. O.

Bosch is ok for the O2. They have been the OEM supplier at one time or another. Denso and NTK are ok also. O.

Check that the large hose(@1" dia) from the IACV to air intake is attached. O.

A small clarification. PZEV did not start in Ca. Ca had the strictest emissions standards and Subaru's response was the PZEV. This started in 04 and early 05, so this is the odd header design that Subaru first used. Other mfg have different names. It's the CA emissions std that other states have adopted. O.

Sorry won't fit. The rear from the 03=04 OB are 11.3" in diameter. Your rotors are either 10.2/10.5", (see cars101,com). They would require a new caliper and bracket and 16" wheels. I'd take them for possible future upgrades. O.

You don't by any chance have installed the old style tensioner do you? All the slack is out? The 40.5 is the tooth count you should have from the crank sprocket mark. O.

Try Amazon or Ebay. O.

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The "easiest" route is from the bottom. But the last swap I did about 2 mos ago, no matter how I tried. the swivel would always be at the wrong angle and locked up preventing me from turning the bolt. I have pulled axle pins before, but this time I did it from above both off and on, and yes it was an auto. O,

The "easiest" route is from the bottom. But the last swap I did about 2 mos ago, no matter how I tried. the swivel would always be at the wrong angle and locked up preventing me from turning the bolt. I have pulled axle pins before, but this time I did it from above both off and on, and yes it was an auto. O,

The "easiest" route is from the bottom. But the last swap I did about 2 mos ago, no matter how I tried. the swivel would always be at the wrong angle and locked up preventing me from turning the bolt. I have pulled axle pins before, but this time I did it from above both off and on, and yes it was an auto. O,

Raise the car as much as you can on stands to give you room to maneuver. A ratcheting open end from above also works as long as the heater hoses are not connected. O.

Sensor 1 Bank 2. First cat, first sensor on passenger side. Bank 1 is driver side. A search will get you the fsm for that year. O.

You probably have 5! The 04 and early 05 was the first pzev engine for the CA emissions states. As such they borrowed the header design from the H6 engine. You should have two equal length headers each with their own cat and a cat after the Y. The first 2 cats have 2 O2 sensors and the 3rd one has 1. O.

Use some type of suction in the spark plug hole, to get as much as you can out. A hair dryer should get the rest. O.

As Matt167 stated. Heads, intake, and everything related to ignition timing from your DOHC to the SOHC EJ 251-253 from 01-05. Need to swap the dipstick tube also. May have to change the flexplate. Should be no codes, for the ecu will only see what your 98 harness tells it. Any codes you may get will not be related to the swap. If your new block does not have egr, there is a workaround. Do a search for how. O.

Download the FSM and get all the info you need there. It does work on coolant temp.So the ect sensor must not be defective and the iac itself should not be carboned up. O.

Make sure the hose in the overflow bottle is cut at a slant so that it doesn't just suction to the bottom. There was a TSB about this a while back. O.

wire wheel , anti seize and reuse. Auto stores carry them, but you may have to use washers. O.

Get OEM,NGK or other high quality wires. O.

1) Put tee on driver side hose, it is the in side. 2) There is a special procedure for bleeding the system] of air. Try a search for Burping, should find a few. Not sure if your radiator has a bleeder screw. If it does, would be on passenger side top. 3) There is a drain petcock on the lower passenger side. I find it easier to undo the lower hose. When filling, start with fluid into the upper radiator hose. Then radiator. The EJ engines Tstat is on the bottom of the block so very little goes through until it opens. By then you have a large air pocket which will take a lot of time to be rid of. Use oem or Stant's Xactstat for T stat. O.

In the FSM, mechanical components section , then heater. You can probably figure it out from there. O.

Go to www.opposedforces.com. b12 series. Intake and supply system. Also in New FAQ sticky above page 2 under my name there is a link to FSM. O.

Yes they are the same for all the EJ engines at least up to '07 for sure. If you can measure it properly. should be no reason why a generic one won't work. O.

Loosen bolt and rotate the cord then retighten. Generally the cord from the sensor ends up @1 o'clock position. Obviously clear code after you rotate.The run. O.