98obster

fly out to Colorado and drive home. what do Colorado subaru owners do (when they can)? buy a new suby and sell their old one on CL. 1000 subies? I love Colorado http://denver.craigslist.org/search/cta?query=subaru&minAsk=min&maxAsk=max

whe did you last replace the fuel filter?good to do every couple years anyway.

okay, you're kidding right? you my fine sir have entered the domain of not having to upgrade your car and instead, just keep it alive. be anal about maintenance and inspection (fluids, cv boots, brakes etc.) and save up for your next down payment. and in the meantime enjoy and appreciate what you have. peace.

ideas, yes. you did it wrong. sorry, but the interweb has a lot more info on seafoam than just on the back of the can. CHANGE YOUR OIL NOW or better yet, go back in time, add seafoam to the warm crankcase and idle for a few minutes and then change your oil. Seafoam will only rule out mystery engine operation caused only by carbon build up but won't fix and may just reveal other more serious problems. have you ever put a gas treatment in your tank with 1/4 tank and run the engine? why would you do it with seafoam? it works in carpentry as well as auto maintenance: measure twice and cut once. I'm afraid you didn't even put out the tape measure Finally, doing this on a 150K subie (for the first time?) may require more than one treatment in small amounts of ~5 oz before you see benefits. good luck.

nice forum, you don't even have to register to search or see today's posts so bigo, is your sedan an automatic?

I always go to http://www.cars101.com when looking for stock ride height differences, options, etc. I want everyone to go measure their rear strut mount bolt pattern and report back here. thanks.

real food...and poprocks:rolleyes:

hopefully you can get full refund for their screwup. go get new tires with it and sell the Wally World ones on CL to someone needs that size here's your chance to buy 215/70/15 tires. I'm sure you have the clearance http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html

133k 4eat 2.2l Ok, you're all starting to freak me out. but she's tight as a drum and sticks to 182 degree most of the time. but were not really talking about the 2.2 are we?

I have about 1.25" clearance in the rear. I am running 195/65/15. forester stock is 205/70/15. that would be nice but a little too tight on turning and the rear caster issue of course. thanks for the info.

sounds like you're going a different route, cool. I currently have 2000 forester assemblies on my OBS and will be switching them out for a 2008 XTs set as soon as my strut bar arrives. there will be a difference of about .4 inches increase below the lower perch. Yes, bigger tires would be cool but I am trying to figure out the rear trailing arm situation to return to original caster. I'll be putting in an upper rear Ingall's bolt to dial out camber but no crossmember spacers for now-no jumping for now I guess.

wow, that didn't do it? when did you last replace the fuel filter?

almost 132k on my 2.2. I use Valvoline MaxLife 5w30 blend. I change is out beginning of summer and beginning of winter. I don't drive that much.

Chip, I'm not sure what point you're trying to make? what do you mean by depth? I've driven on hardpack roads with at least 3 inches and of course the snow/dirt whatever will fill the tread-that's the point. everything is connected-the tire is connected to the snow the snow is connected to other snow on the road etc. etc. -if you're not connected you're not in control. Most "All seasons" perform better in light snow conditions than a dedicated summer tire which is trying to maximize footprint with some rain shedding capibilities. Since you're running Blizzaks year round you will probably see a season (probably their last) where they are no better than a good all season. It all comes down to money and performance. So many subaru owners in temperate climates buy dedicated snow sets it can't be a coincidence. personally, I think All Season only applies if you live in Hawaii.

a short somewhere? nothings bumping against the ground wire is it?

So, Caboo, do you think this is worth it? It's probably 230k http://fortcollins.craigslist.org/car/719170821.html

sometimes I think CL is the only thing keeping our economy afloat. nice score...btw, denver CL has tons of subarus these days-not many old ones though.

PCV valve? just a thought-easy enough to inspect. experiencing any mystery oil comsumption?

there should be an opening near where the coolant goes into to heater core-it should be covered up with a grommet-yes it is removable or actually has a hole to put wires through, maybe?

M + S is "mountains and snow" severe service and iirc will be indicated by a snowflake and often with a Mountain symbol on studdable tires. and when we are talking about chains-we mean cables right? Subarus are amazing vehicles on snowpacked roads with adequate tire-I would assume any ski area would at least clear the road for access with adequate snow tires. My experience with all seasons is that they are higher tread wear and may not give the same winter performance after a season or 2. another trick to increase traction is to let a few lbs of pressure out of the tire to increase the contact patch. jeez, winter seems so far away right now.

http://www.cars101.com/subaru/outback/outback2003.html I'd probably stick to the OE size-perhaps 215s if you think your gonna hit the deep stuff (narrow is better for snow) and probably a little better mpg. I would just add another .02 that chains on a subie are like wearing a belt and suspenders-rarely needed (as long as the belt works that is). you also need to think about when you would be chaining up and realize that you wouldn't be going much over 30mph in them. So, I would continue to recommend a M+S snowflake tire rather than putting on chains in a blizzard.

sorry, I can't read for that long...I did read the first post and all I can say is you're in Cali, so I'd say All Seasons ain't gonna give you what you want the rest of the year- even a cheap touring tire like Kuhmo KH21 would be better. With gas prices the way there are going-there's no point in skiing unless it's blower:banana: , so the last thing you want is an all season. In Colorado, and specifically in Boulder, people rock Winterforces all year round. So, I'd say get a winter set up with steelies and Winterforces that will last at least 3 seasons-even the 3rd season will be better than the new All Seasons I suspect (the tread is siped but much harder than an X-ice. just my humble opinion. do the math and decide-give your subie a fighting chance and have fun. jon

some persuading, i should say so... I just did mine (bought the belts back in January or so) and almost thought I had picked up the wrong belts-do they shrink if you don't put them on right away or what? Anyway, the only way to get them on was crank the motor while they were partially over the a/c and p/s pulleys. weird, just weird.:-\ I also had to replace the a/c tensioner pulley (don't forget to ask for the new bolt for the new pulley design)

just out of curiosity, if and when a timing belt fails, is the primary cause the belt (i.e., belt teeth) or a failed pulley or tensioner? I'm pretty anal about the sounds my car makes so would there be any indication (noisy pulley) to forwarn me of approaching trouble? Also, the 2nd belt seems to be the concensus for replacing the water pump so would it leak from the weep hole prior to failure or just die? what the are recommendations for WP brand? So, it seems that the second belt change is mostly to replace components, possibly including oil seals-but I haven't seen mention of those. and then just putting on a new belt I picked up my 98 OBS with 94k on it. it has 131k now. the first belt was replaced anytime between 60 and 94. So I'm thinking 150k is my deadline to get my act together? Anything on the oil pump-is it a lifetime thing? The other thing is, the inner timing belt covers just seem to crack at the threads so ordering the left and right inners might be a good preventative measure-PB Blaster beforehand maybe? do you have a Ebay store recommendation? PCI etc.? jon

the 98-01 foresters and imprezas share the same chassis as far as I know-rear top hat bolt spacing is different tho