The Scooby

yes ive checked for vacuum leaks, with everything from re-torquing all the bolts, and checking the clamps to spraying the engine with starting fluid to see if it revs. nothing. so also i checked and the ECU is not sending the signal to the fuel pump. it has 12V at the thick yellow wire at the relay. but gets nothing to the smaller yellow and silver dot or the green w/black stripe. and the black with red stripe also never sends power to the pump. i had wired it wrong and it was just going off the stock EA wiring and sender. so for some reason the EJ harness is not telling the relay anything so i need to trace that down tomorrow or monday. i also checked all the wires for the ignition switch and made sure i have that hooked up right. so its not like the harness is loosing power. then the last things if i can figure this out, i still have to hook up the oil light, and VSS. but still need to figure out where i hook up the wire for the VSS signal off the stock EA cluster.

just toss in a OEM replacement Exedy clutch, thats what i put in my impreza and its great.

PSI??? basically what i do is have someone get in the car, put it in gear, lock the parking brake, and have them hold the brakes as hard as they can. then get a 1/2inch breaker bar and crank it down as tight as i can. have yet to have an issue.

ok well ive swapped the ECU's and still nothing, it wont keep running. so i put the ECU that went with the intake and wiring and the fuel pump stays on as soon as the key is in the on position, it doesn't just prime but stays on until i turn off the key. try to start the engine and nothing. so i put another ECU in it, pump will prime, start car and it doesn't sound like the pump stays on.

with my outback seats that are cloth and adjustable height im fine on the lowest setting. im 6ft tall and even on the highest setting i still have about a hand thickness between my head and ceiling.

the 96 and 93 will interchange, have you checked the igniter module thats up on the fire wall? if that goes bad then you will not get any spark because that basically tells the coil pack to work

ive never disconnected anything, i pulled the intake complete with the wiring and all, car ran before i got it. no CEL's to speek of now, but it will crank and start right up like its soposed to. rev to 1500, climb to 2Krpms like its trying to warm up then die. also if i try to give it any kind of throttle it stalls instantly. also ive got every wire hooked up except the VSS and the oil light. the 12V is hooked to the black wire, start is hooked to the black with a white stripe if i remember right (car is at work, im at home). when i swapped the start wire from 12V switched to just the start signal it will do what its doing now. when the start wire saw 12V while cranking and running it would stay running as long as the key was on, but would do the searching idle. also one thing i noticed, once you start it, then it stalls you hear it go into check mode, the fan kicks on and off. did you leave the DIAG connector in place? i dont see the single black connector with one wire, only the single wire green which was connected together when i got the harness.

thanks russ, hey if you wouldn't mind and have some time when you bring by the diff if i havn't for it running yet would you mind giving me a hand. i can put anything together, pull a EJ engine in under 15 minutes, but when it comes to wiring im still learning.

true, i just can't wait to figure out the stalling problem, the fuel pump keeps its 12V while cranking and running, but stalls anyways. thinking its something to do with the ignition.

swap to the regular strut/spring combo, check out in the vendor for sale section for a user named Aaron's Auto Wrecking, they have them as a bolt in replacement for $300.

good old chrysler goof video of the tranny, that always cracks me up.

no i had the start wire hooked to 12V switched, not the starter signal wire at the ignition switch. so i swapped them so the start wire only gets 12V when cranking, now it will start right up and idle at 2K rpms to warm up, then stalls about 2-3 seconds later. so now i have to figure that out.

ya it would look alot better with some rubber on the wheels instead of some rubber bands.

uploading vids right now, still have to sort out why im getting a start circuit trouble code as well as a crank angle code. if anyone can chime in or really help diagnose why my car has the surging idle it would be appreciated. it has the searching idle and if you try to give it any throttle imput it will try to stall out. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L_juO0EioOU ^when i just got finished wiring everything in http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2kZqXRV7G0c ^after ECU swap and fixing some other little things, just need to cure the surging idle now

ive got a short video of it right now, but will get more later and post them up tonight or tomorrow.

ITS ALIVE!!!!!!!!!!!! have to take off the dust shield under the bottom of the bellhousing because its rubbing. it was the ECU, was bad, just found another superceeded ECU just now so ill go try that, i put in a older one and it ran fine but had a searching idle.

^those look good i like that hatch.

ya the harness for the switched is ran off the black wire right off the ignition. it gets 12V when the key is in the ON and in Start positions. that is the same place i hooked up the start wire to for the choke. before i hooked up the start wire it wouldn't kick over at all. now about the engine. the long block is a 98 impreza 2.2 single port. it was in a front end collision but it still ran and drove fine, i drove it myself. the intake manifold and harness/ECU came off a running 94 legacy sedan but it burned oil. ill replace the crank sensor today and see if that helps at all. also it is REALLY rich when it does start, even while cranking you smell the gas quite a bit.

sounds awesome man i can't wait to see this monster in person.

no i haven't yet hooked up the CEL wire, i have to figure that out tomorrow as well as extend that wire from the ECU as well as the tach, temp, and oil light. no there is no fuel cut off other wise the pump would not prime at all. i know i at least have one code for the O2 sensor since the one i put in my exhaust is wrong so i need to swap it out with the older one that will match the plug on the wiring. it just almost seems like the pump is not staying on. what happens is that you let it sit for 10minutes, turn on the key and fire ti up, will run for about 1 second then stall. each time you try to restart it after that it will run for shorter and shorter times until it just cranks. each time you turn the key you hear the pump prime, but i can't hear it when the engine is running. when it gets to the point of just cranking you have to let it sit for about 10 minutes then it will fire right up again and run again for only 1 second.

no because when i let go of the key it runs for that 1 second then dies, i thought it might be the MAF so i changed that with no luck. oh well im happy for today just to hear it fire over. hard part is done, now its just the mild details.

ok figured most of it out, you can now crank it and it will fire right up then die about 1second later. i just need to sort that out, hook up the tach, oil dummy light (led), temp gauge, and finish installing the wiring and ECU under the dash.

i understand they are ok when packed right, i was just saying everytime ive seen someone do it grease got EVERYWHERE. but ya the kits are the best way if you can afford it.

ive seen it done, never liked it because the next time you go to do the belts they are covered in grease. but if you have good luck, hey its a easy way to save some money, i would do it if im broke, but if you can afford it, just buy new.

well time to trouble shoot, getting fuel (hear the pump prime, have the fuel pump power from the ECU to the pump and then the pump is grounded to the chassis) and also have spark. if anyone can help me out please give me a call at 206-245-9292