Gloyale

Angle iron bridged over the bearing housing face and a series of big washers and spacers always works for me. I just draw it through a bit at a time by tightening the nut. Easier with an impact wrench to do the tightening:grin: IF the threads on the axle can't take it, it was a POS axle that you shouldn't be running, especially on an EA because if that fails, the wheel can fall off. I'll say I've never had one strip. FYI.....if you loose the axle nut, the brake caliper will hold the wheel on via the rotor for at least 600 miles.........at the expense of the brakes........don't ask how I know.

The 90 Degree stuff is for the newer EJ engine series. You are probably reading specs from a Haynes or Chiltons that is covering both types of models, and you are reading from the wrong portion. Or the Typo'd it, which is common for both books. Now that you have mentioned it though...... I have recently done a few EA82s were I used a modified version of the EJ proceedure to torque my Headgaskets. THIS IS MY METHOD.....THESE ARE NOT FACTORY TORQUE SPECS.....USE AT YOUR OWN RISK: Use the factory tightening pattern for bolt sequence, but with modified torque 1. Torque all bolts to 20 ft/lbs, ..... then to 35 ......then to 45. 2. Next, loosen all bolts 180 degrees (Just once, loosening them 180 twice is just rediculous, even on the EJs...I think) 3. Retighten the middle 3 bolts, between the cylinders, to 20 ft/lbs. (bolts 1,2,3 in the factory sequence) 4. Retighten the remaining bolts to 18 ft/lbs 5. Tighten all bolts by 80-90 degrees 6. Tighten all bolts by an additional 80-90 degrees.(no more than 180 total) AGAIN, THIS IS A METHOD INVENTED OFF THE TOP OF MY HEAD ADAPTING THE NEWER EJ SCIENCE TO THE OLD GEN. NO WARRANTY EXPRESSED OR IMPLIED

You guys, the heater core in a subaru is a fulltime part of the cooling system. There is not a valve in the hose that opens or closes flow to the core. There is no change in what happens to the water flow through the core based on the blend door. Heater core is *in the loop* 100% of the time. There really is no need to even look at were the temp control settings are for filling and burping.

Sorry. You just seemed so sure. It is a great mod, glad you are happy with it.

I'm not aware of needing anything other than correct size sockets and a press.

Vacuum leaks. Either at the intake gasket, or at hoses that get brittle. Have ALL the vac lines changed. You live in North Dakota. What do you want from 15 year old rubber in Sub-zero weather?

Dual E-brake works quite well for the fronts. You have to have the cables set really tight though.

Parking lights coming on with the brakes, and also a bulb noit fitting the socket correctly are both sgns you have a single fillament bulb in the one of the dual Brake/Tail sockets. The single lead contact in the center of the bulb bridges the two contacts in the bottom of the socket. The pins on the side of a dual fillament bulb should be at different *heights* to prevent this, but it is possible in a worn socket to shoove a single were a dual is supposed to go.

Clutches are easy once the hub is out. Probably some of the clutches are getting stuck in worn grooves in the inner hub. I ussually file the edges of those grooves off.

I'd like the Drivers side regulator, and handle. I just want hand crank windows on my drivers door. I am going tho leave the other 3 power so I can open windows for dogs easily.

Have you checked the screw in the distributor rotor. Just take of the cap and try to spin the rotor, or just tug on it.

Oring on the pipe? Or possibly leak in the bypass hose?

If he grabs the EGR solenoid off the 2.5 and just plugs it in to the harness he shouuld not get a CEL

FYI uses the same compressor as the early EA82s

Yeah, except then you get another old trans with worn bearings. It;s less than 100 bucks for the bearings and seals. Worht it.

Most people here on the board are mechanically inclined. All it takes is a 14mm socket and a breaker, and a 12mm wrench.

If rear driveline is disconnected, there is no risk from towing on a dolly. Done it many times. But the driveshaft must be removed. FWD fuse will do nothing with engine off.

Got those pics yet? yeah, i didn't think so

Why are you using a gasket on a 4eat? Pan seals with Three-bond, no gasket. I know there are cork gaskets available, but Subaru just used sealant, so do I

You won't get 30 from the turbo engine. Maybe if you drive without boosting it EVER. 25 is honestly about the best you'll get

it only has one wire, but it is actually a 2 pin type connector. Use the green ones. It holds the timing static. You wouldn't really notice other than when you rev it up. set it to 20 degs.

Yeah, like if you bought the steal in 1983.

You may have broken a CV in you're rear axle. Even breaking one on an open diff will cause all rear drive to be gone. My second guess would be a stripped rear output. it is only about 1/8th in nubs that engage via the 4wd shift collar. not much really, they can strip But check both rear axles first. Put the car in the air, hold the inner CV cup from underneath, and have someone try to spin the tire. you may find one of the joints will just be broken inside, and spinning.

No it wasn't. I have the trans from a 99 outback wagon sitting on the floor of my shop. It is the new design, with 8 bolt holes, AND A STUD FOR THE LOWER STARTER MOUNT THAT IS ENTIRELY NOT PART OF MOUNTING THE ENGINE TO TRANS. It is excactly like I said. I swear no one will believe me til I post pics:rolleyes:

I'll bet the horn itself is shorting.