Numbchux

yea, definitely could be from another market. I've never seen one in a junkyard though...so I don't know how common that might be. yea, I suppose there are a lot more N/A 2.0s than I was thinking. but turbo ones are still far more common, in general.

the other advantage to the zuki is it has a reduction in the high-range as well (I think, correct me if I'm wrong....). which is a big help with a little soob 4-cyl and big tires.

correction (in the US anyway), the RX is the only dual-range EA box with a center diff. many turbo EA82s and XT6s had Full-time 4WD with a locking center diff....just no lo range.

exhaust can be re-used. intake cannot. as a rule of thumb.....intake manifold has to match the heads.

yes, definitely do-able. I've got a friend running the opposite in his impreza now, 22 block with 20 heads. but probably not ideal. compression depends on exactly what it is, and what headgasket you use. assuming it's a USDM EJ20, it has to be an EJ205 ('02-'05 WRX), which means the pistons are designed for ~7.7:1 compression. and typically speaking, heads for a larger bore have a large quench volume, which will drop your compression ratio a bunch. I don't remember off the top of my head which engine uses which thickness headgasket, but that's your only chance to recoup some compression. But I think you'll probably end up with a CR of about 7.5:1, if you're lucky, you might be able to bump it up to the stock 7.7ish. in any case, it will definitely need to be forced-induction to have any torque, at all. although the 2.2 heads are SOHC, which are a substantial bottleneck. really, you're going to struggle just to get stock WRX peak power....with a crappier torque curve. you'll also have less displacement, and still an open deck block. Also, a junkyard WRX block......eek. IMHO you'd be better throwing a few psi and some supporting mods at an N/A compression EJ22. this is all just off the top of my head, though. and filling in the blanks as to exactly what you have (MOST EJ22s have 9.5:1, but the newer ones went up to 9.7....so if you're using those heads, you might have a better shot. also, if it's an EJ20 shortblock from another market....things will change. But probably 90% or more of the EJ20s on the planet were turbo. so you'll be looking at pretty low compression).

yep, it's there. I don't think it has a function on carbed cars...but it's there anyway. yea, as far as I know, most EA81s do have it. but I don't have any diagrams for those.

yep. finally got around to scanning the diagram from my chilton's manual. really the only EA82 diagram you need http://www.numbchuxconversions.com/Files/FSMs/Loyale%20Instrument%20Panel%20Wiring.pdf

not outraged, just confused. it doesn't add up. I was just trying to learn some more about the other markets, and since he couldn't be sure on what he had, I was trying to fill in the blanks. but I throw in the towel, I don't think there will be any more constructive information here.

EDIT: post removed.....too many inconsistencies. no point arguing

double? no. a little bit, yea, but if you can read the diagrams enough to make sort the engine stuff out, the trans isn't much harder. you can buy a whole 2.2l 4EAT legacy for $150 the 3AT isn't a terrible trans, in the grand scheme of things. but if you ever want to go on the freeway, and get decent mileage at it, no. they leave you turning 4k rpms at 70! a 4EAT is designed to let the TC slip a bit, so it's geared very long. once the TC is locked, it'll do 70 at about 2500....

I <3 this plan

I think you might be pushing it a bit there do-able....yes. worth it? no. the bellhousing issue is the same as it is with a manual. adapter plate, and modify the holes in the flex plate. much easier, in fact, as the flexplate is about 1/8th the thickness of a flywheel. but yea, if you're looking for an auto, nab an EJ 4EAT, and a pair of EA82 turbo axles. little more wiring, little modification to the shifter (or switch to the EJ one. it needs to have separate settings for D, 3, 2, and 1. or, live without being able to manually select first....not the end of the world). probably cheaper than the adapter plate. and a muuuuch better trans.

no. XT6 flywheel has the same bolt pattern as the EA82. on the axles. '93 and '94 FWD 5MT imprezas have 23 spline axles. they must be those 2 years ('95 and possibly '96s were still avail as FWD, but listed as using the same part# as AWD), must be FWD, and must be 5MT. the autos use 25 spline, even with a 1.8l FWD. they're kinda rare, but they exist.

superu. the problem is, the EJ D/Rs are not all the same. some have locking centers (this seems to be a japan-specific thing, which means it occasionally made it to NZ. but not OZ), some have VLSD center. And there were many different gearing options. That's why there's different information floating around, and I'm not sure what 1-5 gears mine has. But, what it all boils down to, is if it's gearing you're after. I wouldn't bother. whatever you get, you'll be pulling it apart, and rebuilding it using all USDM internals anyway (1.59:1 low range from an PT4WD EA82 box, 4.111 R&P and center diff from a standard EJ 5MT). You could do all this with an EA82 D/R case and an adapter plate. In my experience, the ONLY reason to get an EJ D/R, is for the clutch. If you're looking to put fairly big power through it, and you want a better clutch for it. That's why I bought the one I have, I had planned to put a supercharged EJ22e in front of it, and I wanted the clutch to hold ~200lb/ft (engine probably wouldn't be putting out quite that much anytime soon....but it's possible). And I wanted the gears for autocrossing. also, there is nothing available in other markets (that I know of....these threads have been no exception), than allow fully lockable center diff with anything other than a 3.9 axle ratio. So if that's a priority to you, you'd pay all that money to import a gearbox, tear it apart and make a hybrid, and still end up with the exact same gearing that a very common EA82 D/R has. You'd just have a better clutch.

yep, the XT6 one is slightly thinner to reduce weight (I would guess to counteract the extra rotating mass in the larger engine, than an actual performance thing). XT6 and standard EA82 clutches are interchangeable. but the XT6 uses a stronger pressure plate. you'll definitely want the '6 one to hold up to the torque of an EJ motor.

that's more or less how it's done. Pretty hard to tell you specifically how that kit was designed to work. But as baccaruda said, post up a nice, big picture of all the parts, and those of us who have installed a few lifts can probably identify how it's done and give you some pointers.

I have seen an EA82 shock blow on stock springs. and I destroyed all 4 in my wagon. although I had 500lb/in springs on it, and it was lowered enough that I would still occasionally bottom them out anyway, when I had that stock one blow, I got a pair of Monroe shocks at NAPA, they were about $100 or so, which was a bit more than I wanted to pay for monroes, but I needed them ASAP (I think they could get them the next day). when I bought new shocks for my XT6 (when I dumped the air), I got KYB GR2s. I got both rear ones for like $80 shipped on ebay. I really like the way they ride...just go onto KYB.com and find the part for your car, and then do a search on ebay motors for that part number (don't forget to check the "include item description in search" box), there's usually a few ebay stores with them for a decent price. and then, yea, Rockauto is probably your best bet for cheap brake hardware.

not quite, I'm a few hours north. my parents live in the cities....but nobody home this week. I don't know of anybody who might have something. Whereabouts in town are you at? I'll see if I can't find someone who would be willing to have them shipped to them.

auto transmission control unit (TCU). unless you're re-using the auto trans, you won't need it.

My dad bought a bunch of plastic ones at menards for like a dollar each, and screwed them to his legacy in about 8 places. door panels, dash.....the man likes his cupholders

wow....I just did something very inappropriate awesome!

yep, I do that too. My dad used to have a cupholder on the other side of the ebrake lever, but when I got the car, I swapped it to D/R, and now there isn't room anymore. I've often thought about putting the cupholder from an early legacy (slide-out unit much like you've got there) in the slot under my CD player, but I never got around to it. My '87 Toyota 4Runner doesn't have a cupholder anywhere either. as of next weekend, I'll officially own 4 cars, with zero cupholders between them .

yep, canoes, bikes, kayaks, ladders, lumber......roof rack on the loyale has hauled many things!

there's always a bunch on ebay. they seem specific to EA82s and XTs, I don't think they list any other application. FYI, if you look at the installation instructions, the ones that say specifically '87+ bolt to the bumper, and the ones that are good from '85-'94 don't. Here's the XT version. says it's good for 2000lbs and 200lbs tongue weight: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Subaru-XT-Coupe-X-T-6-87-91-trailer-towing-hitch_W0QQitemZ120468335602QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item1c0c78ebf2&_trksid=p4506.m20.l1116

all our FT4WD DRs have a 1.19:1. fixed That's the point I was trying to make. the internals aren't any different than the stuff we have. Assembling a tranny with USDM parts and the same internals as an EJ D/R is possible, but it'll have an EA82 bellhousing, which is fine for most uses. I bought my EJ D/R for street use, so I could have a motor putting out 200 lb/ft (and a not-custom, affordable clutch that can hold it), awesome short gearing for AutoX, and then drop it in hi range for the freeway home.