Numbchux

nope, it was definately an ER27.... but huck put an SVX motor in an XT6: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=59835

I haven't wired my diff lock switch up yet, so when I want to lock my center diff, I just pop the hood, and bypass the vacuum switch. connecting one of the 2 lines that goes to the diaphragm manually. one of them is lock, and the other is unlock. although it took a little trial and error before I figured out which was which. nothing to fabricate, actually much more simple than the ropes....

once again, I'm not sure. I don't know much about EA81 stuff...but it's worth it. I'd be more worried about putting an EA81 axle through an XT6 knuckle. if you're using xt6 front steering knuckles and calipers, you can use your ebrake cables.

yes, you'll probably need to match the intake manifold to the heads.... and IIRC the coolant lines for the turbo come out of the head...but don't quote me on that

5-lug's easy. same as a rear disc conversion. XT6 rotors and backing plates, EA82t or XT6 calipers. can't use legacy stuff, as they use struts and knuckles, so it's not even remotely similar to the trailing arm on the brat. the front's the hard part...the legacy tophats have 3 bolts, and the brat only has 2. you may be able to swap tophats, but you may also end up drilling holes, which you'd probably need to re-enforce, not to mention get exactly in the right place.

correct. just as GD said, all EA82, EJ and EG (EG33, SVX motor) had belts. the EZ30s have chains. that way they're only one inch longer than an EJ22E

I have the 200SX calipers, with 4-lug. I do NOT have working rear handbrake. the bracket does hit the trailing arm with 4-lug (although just barely, I did get an extra one from another car at the yard and could easily bend it to get it to work), so I'm waiting until I actually do the 5-lug conversion to do something with the cables, and re-install that bracket. you could put XT6 backing plates on there, but it would mean that only part of the pads would actually touch the rotors....yikes

actually...we used an ice fishing auger. it drills about a 4" wide hole....and then get out the tape measure. or, you could also use a chain saw

woa!! just noticed....you used 240SX calipers....I used 200SX calipers.... oops.....

that's right, I think you mentioned this in a previous version, and I forgot to update it. I'll be sure to get that this time.

yep, but the .xls document has all that info.

hmmm...I didn't have that problem. I had a bracket resting against the trailing arm that I had to bend a little, but nothing too serious. the stock cables won't reach the rear end. I just found that out a couple weeks ago. if you just undo them from the front, and re-route them to the rear, they come up about 8" short. and that's with a much tighter bend in the middle than I'm comfortable with. you need a handle that is designed for a car with rear ebrake, so it pulls the right direction. I've got legacy stuff that I plan to use...but haven't gotten to that stage.

this one? http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/80s/specs/mechanical/gear-ratios.xls

hello again. any news on this? I'm getting close to being able to afford it...and definately need it. if it's not going to happen, that's cool, I'll go another route. but I am sort of holding out for an all-in-one unit. one question. would it be possible to have a usb or serial port so it could be plugged directly into a computer for better monitoring? I'm thinking of putting a carputer into my wagon, and it'd be nice to have the 2 integrated...

I haven't a clue...

29" liberator A/Ts at full upflex on a 3" BYB lift: 29" swampers on an 3.5" SJR kit would be somewhat similar, since they'd be pulled a bit to the front, but a little extra lift. you might get a bit of rubbing at full travel, but nothing serious.

that's one of my goals for this spring. taller 1-5 gears, lower lo range, and LSD front.

ok, I was originally thinking just a 'traditional' EJ22 swap (just motor...) yep, as mentioned, there are no EA81 axles that will fit an EJ trans. the EJs have 25-spline stubs, and EA81s are all 23. you may be able to attach the inner DOJs from a turbo EA82 (25-spline) onto the ends of your EA81 shafts....but I'm not sure. also, keep in mind, putting an EJ trans into an EA81 car has a pretty long list of 'little' stuff to make it all work. like custom driveshaft (or at least modified length stock one), and linkage.

ok, I replaced the flywheel sentence with this: "Either an XT6 or a 4-cyl EA82 flywheel can be used, however the XT6 flywheel is a bit lighter than the 4-cyl version. So for faster revs (street use), the XT6 one is preferable. And for better low rpm torque (offroad), the 4-cyl one would be more helpful." as well as those other things I'm usually pretty good about 'you're' and 'your'....good thing you caught that! but other than that, how's the wiring section? I tried to get into plenty of detail, but without it turning into 80 pages.....I hope I found a somewhat happy medium. how about pictures? anything else that maybe should be included? how about those of you that are looking into the swap, anything you'd like to see?

or just put the motor to the right timing spot (I forget what it is...~10* for carbs, and 20* for FI?), and then point the rotor. no need to take out a plug or anything. I've done it that way a couple times.

the whole lake's frozen. 14" in the middle of the bay where we were doing the races, almost 20 near the shore, and we measured in a few places out in the middle of the lake (about 8 miles from one end to the other...), and always got at least 10".

+1 7" suspension lift for a subie? yes, yes, while you're there, NASA would love it if you could find proof of water on mars.

just as long as you over-build it. from your description, it sounds like it might bend easy....easier, maybe, than even the stock ones :eek: but then again, I don't think I'm quite understanding your idea....

as big as you can fit. modifying your drivetrain would be preferable...but that wasn't the question. I wouldn't go with more than a 5-6" lift without building a frame under the car (and even that's outside my comfort level, I F#^$ed up a 4" lift). and it would be pretty dumb to build a frame and not mount a tcase to it.... if it were me... 3.5" SJR lift, lots of fender trimming, and 29" swampers.

bump. I'd really appreciate it if someone would take a look at this before I convert it to .pdf