Subruise

you also need enough time to realize and react to your sudden change in situation. the brakes arent gonna help as much either. glad your brother is still among us. in the vein of james dean i wouldnt use any parts off that car. ya he lived, but not for lack of trying.

my car exactly. specs?? those are just numbers lol. i didnt trust my cosistency on the tread and nothing is straighter than a laser, just make sure its where its supposed to be. ill try and get some pics up soon, even tho everyone but me seems to have this covered.

well this proves definitively that i failed with the tape measure method

good input. i had heard from another member to be a total of 1/8th toe in. i took it on the highway and i did pretty good. his explanation was that at hwy speeds, the tires tend to "toe out" due to the laws of friction. he said theyd go "straight" at highway speeds. my bad if i shouldnt have put this in offroad, my loyale is my DD. i can see how 1/8'' toe in would be better at slow speeds. however, i will try 1/8'' in since i can reliably and see how i (the tires) like it.

im gonna guess this will work with other vehicles, lifted or not. you know what they say about necessity...... sorry if im late to the party, but i think this can help some folks with their rigs and i havent seen it yet despite my searching the interwebs ok, so the front end alignment on my 2" loyale has been horrible. this is due to banging it up, then lifting it, and changing tons of parts without aligning it ever. dont do that. ive been plagued with wheel hop (15s) and just all around not goodness in the steering/fwd department. this weekend i played around with youtube, i used string, tape measures... you name it. still scary today. tonight, i set upon my mission: not to pay to have my car aligned. my result will, im sure, prove to be less than perfect, but my steering wheel is now straight, and it stays that way on, or off the throttle. im bummed to have stumbled upon this only after i cooked my winterforces.. i used a milk crate on each tire and some metal door frames 80" in length for their straightness. i used some 4" angle iron up against the back tire and put the "straight edge" (shaped like ]) in that for a solid line. i did the same for the front tire.....toe waaay in. i pushed the toe out until the two frames were within 1/4" or so. heres where it gets cool/cheap: i used my laser level from a cheapo cordless drill kit and shot a line down the edge of the frame centered on the rear tire. i then measured the distance at the front and rear of the rim to the beam tape on the same size frame/plane. then i repeated on the other side. im toed in around 1/16" on each side like i said, im sure it aint perfect. pay a shop to save your tires, its probably worth it....... numbers will be different depending on rim size and other factor ive yet to comprehend. now if only i could master the 12 volt electrical system........

ok, so the front end alignment on my 2" loyale has been horrible. this is due to banging it up, then lifting it, and changing tons of parts without aligning it ever. dont do that. ive been plagued with wheel hop (15s) and just all around not goodness in the steering/fwd department. this weekend i played around with youtube, i used string, tape measures... you name it. still scary today. tonight, i set upon my mission: not to pay to have my car aligned. my result will, im sure, prove to be less than perfect, but my steering wheel is now straight, and it stays that way on, or off the throttle. im bummed to have stumbled upon this only after i cooked my winterforces.. i used a milk crate on each tire and some metal door frames 80" in length for their straightness. i used some 4" angle iron up against the back tire and put the "straight edge" (shaped like ]) in that for a solid line. i did the same for the front tire.....toe waaay in. i pushed the toe out until the two frames were within 1/4" or so. heres where it gets cool/cheap: i used my laser level from a cheapo cordless drill kit and shot a line down the edge of the frame centered on the rear tire. i then measured the distance at the front and rear of the rim to the beam tape on the same size frame/plane. then i repeated on the other side. im toed in around 1/16" on each side like i said, im sure it aint perfect. pay a shop to save your tires, its probably worth it....... numbers will be different depending on rim size and other factor ive yet to comprehend. now if only i could master the 12 volt electrical system........

thats also how i used to "replace" front wheel bearings "its grinding again, back to pnp for another knuckle" now i know the tap it in trick.

ive used the blue fel pros on a few ejs, the only grip ive had is getting the wrong grommets with them. anone else run into this issue? i just re-used the old ones since the lions share of the oil was coming not from the grommets, but from the vcg's themselves. that, and i really didnt have a choice at the time.

its worth it to read this thread. its educational. he used the ej hvac system. besides, its not like youre gonna get a fullsize spare in there anyways, its a big wagon, with big wheels.

^+1. also, i would go to the dealer and order 2 cam case o rings and do those too, you seem to have some leakage there. part number 13089AA010, these can ONLY be found at the dealer. if ya found it somewhere else....its wrong. while youre in there, spend the 40ish bucks and send a set of lifters to mizpah and have them rebuilt. as far as resurfacing, not unless you are doing hgs (assuming your intake isnt all bunged up) lmk if ya need anything, im right up the road

thats ricearu's old uav isnt it??

i recently rebuilt the bottom section of my loyale drivers seat. the left side was completely collapsed from catching air a couple times. i took apart a spare seat and used the springs from it. i also bent the "tray" upwards on the sides for more butt hugging. im 225+ and it supports me great now. we'll be heading to MT this summer, not sure what car yet though. prolly the loyale, (lifted+cruise control)

i see someone helped you already. dont forget to harness the power and search. its actually quite easy. sometimes, i make up words and search them just to see what comes up.

that is awesome. NO sarcasm...ima start doing that now, my tool is a worthless pos, and i have oodles of wire. thank you:grin:

ALWAYS replace the orings. ALWAYS use subaru oem cam case oring PN: 13089AA010 (x2). ALWAYS resurface heads, there are threads on DIY or take em in. last but not least...ALWAYS read more than you think you need to and use multiple methods of searching. become one with the task at hand, try to envision it before you go out to the garage. as far as lifters go, you can get em rebuilt by mizpah for 40ish a set (8). believe me when i say they do fantastic work and its worth every cent. cheers RV

dp'd

they look better than some of the ones ive done. youre fine, take your time, read lots

lmk...serious

also, you wont pay too dearly if you screw it up, youll just have to read the directions again. the ea82 doesnt bend valves. definitely pull the motor. it doenst add much time to the job, and takes loads of time off bending over

open a shop in Pierce county, i need a new job, Signs by tomorrow has stolen enough from me.

the bit needs to have the hole in the center or it wont work. get on that screwdriver handle with a pair of vicegrips or chainwrench or somethin. better yet get a handle withe a nut attachment (sounds weird, you can put a wrench on it)

iirc, i used a 1/4" 6 in 1 tool (nut driver). its just like a phillips bit, only it works for soob stubs. i usually take lunch around noon til one.

i work 8-5 but you could also meet me im T town on my lunch break if its urgent. if not ill hit you up when i get off work.

fyi, you can have your lifters rebuilt through mizpah for around $40 for a complete set

i have an E10 bit. i also have a pulley for ya.