el_freddo

Not on an ‘83. They’re replaceable. At least they are in Oz right up to the last brumby run in ‘91. L series, totally staked. Machining required to convert to replaceable uni joint yokes. Cheers Bennie

4wd will probably be a hand brake kind of effect if the diffs aren’t matched. I believe series 1 4wd touring wagons got the 3.9 diff and the DL 3.7 (could be wrong, they could all be 3.9 in the series 1). Series 2 I’ve only ever seen 3.7s across the board for the 4wd models. Cheers Bennie

Rogie. I’ll get them organised and check postage as that could be the killer Cheers Bennie

How do you determine the ratio by just looking at a box @FerGloyale? Quite a skill! In all seriousness, “easiest” way to work it out is to engage 4wd, mark the rear output shaft, rotate the diff once, counting how many times the rear output shaft rotates. You may have to work out what .7 of a rotation looks like to decipher between 3.7 and 3.9 (which will be closest to 4 rotations). Cheers Bennie

Welcome back! That wouldn’t happened to be the Wonder Brumby II that your old username refers to would it? From Tassie? Cheers Bennie

I saw that earlier today. Best H6 note I reckon I’ve ever heard! What a beast. Cheers Bennie

The only difference I know in the door between the sedan and wagon is the glass. Everything else is interchangable. Cheers Bennie

It’s been done many times here in Australia with the Brumby (Brat). The best person I know that could answer this is @Steptoe Cheers Bennie

Yeah I see what you’re talking about with the triangle trim piece. And I’ve never seen side mirrors like that. I’m sure our ‘84 side mirrors are different - alabit trashed since the car was stolen and driven through a cyclone fence (years ago now!) nope, they’re the same style. LHS mirror is gone. Cheers Bennie

This has caught out several new members too. Don’t go asking about your 1992 loyale in that forum, they’re EJ series and beyond. As GD mentioned, read the forum description - or the fine print of you like... Cheers Bennie

The parts car that has the piece on it is an hour’s drive away at my parent’s farm. Earliest at this stage would be next weekend. If your mum gets suss - use some BS magic that a forum member is curious about the 85 model door setup with the mirror. Be sure to then take some exterior pics too Cheers Bennie

I’m not following what the difference is. The ‘84 had the window mounted on the door panel too. And my ‘88 that I daily doesn’t have any cut out in the upper arm rest for the triangle piece that covers the mirror mount above the door line. You have caught my curiosity on this one. Cheers Bennie

Checkerboard comment is talking about the top piece with he door lock and release handle in it. I too have front and rears from an ‘84 L series sedan. But I’m in Oz and postage can be a killer when leaving our country... if you need/want them though I can check out postage options. Regards Bennie

Very unusual for the belt and crank pulley to align like that for a cam belt change! You should go buy a lotto ticket And I’ve done the drink bottle cut down burping method many times! Cheers Bennie

Well on the SG it’s how you said - accessible from the rear/through the starter motor hole. I’ve probably got my wires crossed from an old Holden setup and what I remember seeing on a Gen1 I pulled apart once. Cheers Bennie

Looks good armedequation! I hope the road trip goes well. Great way to get acquainted with the subi! Cheers Bennie

@GeneralDisorder - is there a particular process in doing this? I have three questions about doing this: - do you run the engine in park, neutral or drive to pump out all the fluid? - when the fluid is pumping out, do you have the other tube sucking fresh fluid or leave it open until the flow reduces from the outlet hose? - replace the filter at which point in the procedure? Cheers Bennie

When I read the updates this morning, I wondered if it’s an oil pressure issue that’ll result in bottom end knock. Cheers Bennie

Well you’d know then, I’m just a backyarder that’s seen several torque converters in parts yards, I haven’t played with them as such - but am about to once I crack the ATF lines from the radiator cooling/heating lines. This is in an SG Foz and the first auto Subaru in the family. Cheers Bennie

You’re right, I should’ve been more specific with the low compression and that it’s related to blow by and pushing oil mist into the intake system. @HRBrat - you’ll have to work out if you have hydro lifters or not. We only have solid over here. Also check for a bent push rod. Cheers Bennie

Bad bearings certainly can have a whining noise to them! It’ll even change noise with bumps in the road. Cheers Bennie

I would say it’s @ShawnW at a guess. Maybe try making this a private conversation via PM, otherwise hopefully he’ll respond for you with a public reply to clean up this matter. It’s all very one sided! Cheers Bennie

I didn’t see that coming! Cheers Bennie

Through the torque converter? I can’t see how this works. Cheers Bennie

Me too! Even in $US!! Only if it’s the L series one though. If it’s the EJ dual range forget it, we’ve got plenty of them cheaper than $200. Cheers Bennie