mikaleda

I would check for air leaks in the exahst just to be on the safe side, but like fairtax said it doesn't take much to bend the valves

What would be the point? The rear axle is already selectable

thats what is usually the cause and yes a multi mter can pick this up , but Only if its not a cheap one. your multimeter needs to block dc current in ac mode or it will give you a false reading. a good way to find out is to turn it to ac and see if it shows voltage off your batterie with the vehical off, if it shows ac voltage than it will give you a false reading

Failing crank sensor? Ac ripple is possible not probable, but still wouldnt hurt to have the system checked.

Interesting idea. From experiance with multiple brands and styles of 4wds the selectible hubs were phased out for a stronger and more reliable switching system in the differential when car manufactures went to independent front ends. Now the problem with that would be Subaru's front diff being married to the trans, so that type of selection would most likely not be a great idea. I don't think the rear diff will be an issue since the style rear diff the old gen Subaru's use is also used in rwd Datsuns so it should hold up to power just fine. This leaves us with one issue and that would be the style of the front hubs and how the splines interact with the hubs. More than likely your going to have to fabricate a similar hub style from a late 80's early 90's toyota onto your Subaru front end. Your probably going to have to Frankenstein your CV axles up front too. I can see a way of doing this, but its hard to picture in my head how everything would interact.

I would buy a 90 legacy Manuel trans (it just so happens the car I have is my dream car in the making) put a rebuilt ej22 in it, have the trans completely rebuilt with upgraded bearings, outback struts upgrade, up size tires, vlsd rear diff, paint the underside with rino liner (rust protection) and if any things left over save it for future maintence Of course being a mechanic, I would save a lot by doing most of the work myself. this is my plan eventually though If you think that's crazy just ask me what my plans are for my GMC

i would say since you have the transmision out and partially apart already you might as well split it and see what kind of damage has happened. personaly i would go ahead and purchase a used trans and instale that one. then you can thoughly go through this one and make sure everything is good and just keep it for a back up.

I suggest doing a Google search an reading the reveiws in the products. Personally I like 3m products Also the severity of the scratch determens what needs to be done Did the scratch go past the base coat? If so I would suggest having a professional take care of it since to be properly fixed it will need to be feathered out, recoated with matched base coat, blended, and then the entire panle will have to be re clear coated If it just scratched it but the color is still visible a product for scratch removal should work

You are correct and I agree

Up here we have major issues with a salt brine they use on the roads. The bad part of salt brine is it gets everywhere! I constantly have issues with calipers undercarriage rot, I've even had issues greasing ujoints as well. As for a product to stop rust, POR 15 works well for stopping rust in its tracks. If it wasn't so expensive I would paint my car with it.

I've had a simalar issue on my legacy. My problem ended up being a bad injector. Reolaceing the injector on the cylinder that was missing solved my issue

I have driven a 4wd with one non matching tire before. It was okay as long as I was going perfectly straight, but as soon as I started to turn twords the opposite direction of were the tire was mounted it would bind. The reason for this was as I turned the power was being to equal out as both tires began turning at the same speed and as I got turned far enough the larger tire got power transfered to it which ended up changing the gear ratio causing the binding. Since AWD Subaru's are so sensitive to this the slightly worn tire will get power and will match the other 2 in the back until you go into even a slight turn (say for correction purposes of the crown of the road) and since the overall circimfrence differance isn't that great the power will end up being transfered to the larger diamiter tire (depending on circumstances) even when going straight causing binding. I am on my phone ane autocorrect is starting to irratate me so I hope I was able to explqin this properly

We are going from talking about latteral distribution to front to rear distribution which are controlled by seperate systems. As the op origianly asked about the open diff in the front, my explination was about how the open diff in the front works. An open diff will split power 50/50 only if both tires are spinning at exactly the same speed. As the crown of the road and slight directional correction comes to play one tire is going to become the dominant tire and will wear that tire faster thus causing the need for rotations The smaller tire will always have power transfered to it doninantly, something you can do to try at home to help you understand this is take a 2wd car put one significantly larger or smaller tire on one side and spin out. The smaller tire will always be the domient tire. The whole reason open diff's were invented were because a solid 50/50 power transfer to your axle ment that the car was wanting to keep going straight while going around corners and made handling a nightmare, but with an open diff the power could be transfered to one tire allowing for tighter turns. The reason for the open diff to transfer power to one side or the other was based on one scientific principle. When turning the inside tire travles a much shorter distance than the outside tire so if both tires were trying to travle at the same rate and travel the same distance the inner tire binds and has to spin faster than neccisary for the amount of travle. On an open diff it is rare to see power split equally unless you are driving perfectly straight on a perfectly level driving surface with a perfectly level load with perfectly matching tires

I agree short low speed trips do suck the gas down.

Front to rear power is controlled by the center diff and does not control lateral power unless you have symetrical all wheel drive or traction control.

My GMC with a 5.7 gets almost that milage, With a lot of short trips 11-14 and highway 15-17

In an open diff the tire that is spinning fastest is the one that gets the power. If you put a slightly more worn tire on one side, the side with the slightly smaller circumference will get the power while going straight. When turning the outside tire is traveling farther and slightly faster than the inside tire so it gets the power transfered to it. On a left hand turn your right hand tire is the dominant tire and on a right hand turn the left tire gets the power. As a rule of thumb the tire that is smaller will be the dominant tire.

It's probably the ethonal gas, ethanol gas has a distinct smell when burned compared to non ethanol You might try a few tankfulls from a different station, sometimes different gas stations will get different amounts of ethanol blend fuel

I usually get 28-30 if I'm just cruisin the highway in the summer time.

20mpg is low imho My moms 90 wagon auto with 285,000 miles gets around 23-25 in the winter My 90 wagon 5 speed gets 25 steady during the winter, but it has a low milage replacement motor as well Check your plugs for wear, air filter, fuel filter. Lucas fuel injector cleaner will improve mpg slightly for a couple tanks.

Head bolts are reusable And I know lots of people say to use OEM gaskets for the turbo motor. As for felpro I have heard alot of naysayers, but I would be interested to see the felpros updatded desighn compared to the OEM gaskets. I know that on the 2.2l the felpros are the exact same gaskets as oem, but the 2.2 wasn't plagued with head gasket failure like the 2.5 was either

I don't see why not as long as the body fits.

I wouldn't mess with anything but felpro or OEM for head gaskets

I have seen on service pro antifreez that 50/50 is recommended and 2:1 is the maximum recomened mixture rate At 2:1 you would probably be fine, but unless your seeing below -30 or above 120 degrees anything over a 50/50 mixture is unnecisary

Antifreeze is made to be mixed 50/50, or at least close to that mixture.50/50 is the optimal mixture for freeze/boiling pritection without compromising flow. At a thicker than 60% mixture the antifreeze will gel at tempatures that are below freezeing, technically it has a lower freezing temp and higher boiling temp but it is to thick to flow properly