idosubaru

if youre just removing the engine you could drop the entire suspension/crossmember with the motor attached...even the trans with a jack or two under neath to gently lower it. then you'll have to slide it out from underneath. if you have to pull it by hand, keep disassembling until you and whoever you got to help can pull it out.

what's the difference between EJ18 and EA82? does the EJ get similar gas mileage with a manual trans? looking for good mileage soobs like an EA82 manual. i know they are good, but don't know what the EJ18 gets. are the EJ18's good for reliability? wonder why they didn't last long? thanks for the info.

what's the differences between these motors? does the 1.8 liter get decent gas mileage? i know the EA82 got good gas mileage, is the EJ18 similar to the EA82 or get bad mileage in like the EJ22....which i have one of. looking for something with good mileage, currently have all 6 cylinders and the EJ22 OBS, looking for an EA82 or EJ18.

looking at an impreza outback sport, it's a 93 and it says it has a 1.8 liter. is that the EA82? what's the last year they used the EA82?

looking at some outback sports and noticed some of the 93's had the 1.8 liter motor? is that the EA82? what year did they change motors and what year was the first for the Outback Sport?

i changed my 2.2 timing belt with no problem. my cousin has a few year old 2.5 liter wagon that's over due for a belt change. are the procedures similar at all?

i'd change the oil and filter and go from there. motor probably got hot as the motor heated up from the coolant loss. probably compromised the characteristics of the oil. you should be good to go assuming it wasn't overheated too bad. was there any mention of the temperature gauge getting higher than normal?

88 XT got upper 30's mpg highway, best was a 40 mpg straight highway trip. i got 500 miles per tank highway driving, that was super nice. i got it in 91 so it ran quite nice for a 4 cyilnder NA. that was a manual trans, i'm seeing the auto's don't get as good mileage since i've been looking up mileages using the search function. looking to pick another one up as a highway driver.

i wouldn't bother looking for an ABS XT6, never heard of one. there are 500 members on the XT6 boards so either noone has ABS or they all work flawlessly! i've had about 10 of these things and worked on/looked at others and none have ever had ABS. if they did offer it, good luck finding one as i've looked at dozens and know for sure none have ever had ABS.

all XT6's have them.

the best thing to put in your oil pan is oil. nothing else should be added. that being said, MMO and ATF can be added to help alleviate noisey HLA's, if it is the HLA's causing the problems and you don't or can't pull the HLA's and clean them yourself or replace them. if the oil pump seal or gasket is causing the problem then MMO or ATF won't do anything for your problem. the bottom line is that an engine needs oil and nothing else. fancy additives are a waste of time. MMO and ATF are quick fix alternatives for pulling the cam towers and cleaning the HLA's by hand. otherwise putting anything other than oil in your engine is good for the pockets of the additive manufacturers and not what your engine was designed for. as far as clogged oil passages, i've never had that problem. out of like 10 XT6's that i've owned it has always been the oil pump gasket (every time but one) or a frozen HLA (the other time - two were frozen actually) that has caused any noise.

subaru dealer i talked to said they use a pennzoil synthetic (yellow bottle), they even showed me the bottle. got the same stuff from a parts store but much cheaper than subaru tried to sell it to me for. i added all new fluid when i got it been running that diff for a couple years with no problems, still works great.

what's a good way to clean seats. i have an XT6 with the standard late 80's type soob seats. best stuff or method? wetvac of some sort or just chemicals?

you could try changing the oil. otherwise leave the car with them and get a loaner, this is not your problem and why you pay rump roast loads of money for a new car. that's their responsibility, not yours. no way this should be happening. videotape it if you can and take it into them.

tightening the crank until the engine turns over is not tight enough. you need to hold the crank in place. either put the car in gear (if it's a manual trans) or remove the rubber cap to see the flexplate of the transmission under the throttle body. jam a stout socket extension in a hole in the flexplate to keep the motor from turning over. then torque the crank bolt. if it came off or comes off again it can damage the crank pulley and can also damage the end of the crank (serious pain in the rear). the wobbling could be to a deformed pulley mounting hole or to a deformed crank or due to the rubber lining in the pulley being compromised.

the older 4EAT's have shift solenoids mounted on the passengers side strut tower. i intentionally disconnect them to make firmer/harder shifts. yours could be disconnected or not working properly. i'd check the connection to it (if yours has one, which i think it does) and then test it with a multimeter. you could also disconnect it to see if it stills drives the same or if the shifting changes. if shifting doesnt change after unplugging it then yours probably isn't working right.

your EA82 pump will work just fine for the XT6.

i'd loosen some of the trans mount bolts in the rear so the trans/engine combo can get a better angle at the holes. loosen the trans mounting bolts and make sure the pitch stopper and front engine mounts aren't installed or are nice and loose. now with a jack...maybe even two (one for the engine/one for trans). one on the engine should work, i'd try to get it behind the crossmember if there's room otherwise it will want to tilt the assembly instead of just lifting it up. then it'll be center and should wiggle around enough to fall in place. basically once the weight is off of it, it should wiggle around easy enough and fall into place. this is pretty common in my experience, in case you were wondering why it did that. mine catch at times as well.

that one picture i looked at had duallies but i've seen plenty of truck tires that are as wide as the two of those skinny things. and why the hell is everyone suggesting only stopping at two wheels on each axle? how about 3 or an extra set of axles...let get serious now and quit BSing. Tracks, now you're talking.

sounds like an auto antenna is ruled out if a legacy even has one.

i'm not a professional..... this really becomes an anecdotal debate, it's good to ask yourself this questions first: do you have a particular reason for wanting to use synthetic? unless you really want to, there's not much need for it, because even though synthetics are very good, conventional oil has proven quite capable of doing it's job as well. just make sure you change it when you're supposed to. that being said i would change the diff and trans fluids to synthetics as they can improve the feel of the shifting in some vehicles. that's the feedback i've gotten, never noticed it personally. that could be due to the fact that the fluid just needed to be changed with anything...changing it with mountain dew might have been better than whatever old junk was in there, i don't know but synthetic gear/trans oil has gotten some good feedback it seems to me. my best friend does nothing himself and just doesn't pay attention to anything so i told him to switch to synthetics in his toyota 4 runner thinking he'd never change his oil regularly. i now consider that a good decision, he's at 190,000 miles or so and the thing runs like it did when he first got it, doesn't leak or use a drop of oil and has only needed the power steering pump replaced in all that time. lucky @^&$*(*&~!!!. if you don't plan on keeping the car for a very long time like 150,000-200,000 miles then i wouldn't switch. but if you don't like to change your oil often you can benefit from the less frequent change intervals of synthetics. if you're a purest and like the thought of using the perfect fluid then use sythetics. but conventional oil is very good stuff as well and won't let you down. if you plan on racing or towing or being otherwise more aggressive than average for your car then synthetics might not be a bad idea either.

grease and lots of it works everytime for me. i do it first try with the XT6...more of em and less room to work with and rarely drop any. LOTS of grease. engine tilt with the jackstand doesn't work that well. doesn't really work at all as you typically can't get enough angle to make any difference in my oppinion. i tried it the first time and it wasn't worth the effort considering grease is garaunteed to work every time. what makes it worse is that the car is usually off the ground quite a bit for me...XT6 being a little higher probably and even on jackstands sometimes to facilitate pulling the headers. so unless you keep the car right on the ground and make the headers a serious PITA to remove then using a jack isn't going to give you much angle. the short answer...grease 'em every time and don't look back. if it doesn't work then the grease is the wrong kind or not thick enough or not using enough of it. they stick very well the dozens of times i've done it.

can't make it, i gotta work. 12 hours of work, so no way to even make part of it. let me know if you need those rods before sept as i'm not starting my project until then so i haven't even opened the box yet except to look and say hey there's some pistons and rods.

like just mentioned, disconnect the engine harness and check continuity from there of both wires. or check from the ECU if that's easily accessible and you can decipher which wire is associated with those injectors terminals.

go to walmart and buy a couple feet of that fish hose in the fish department. get enough of it....i usually get like 10 feet to make sure i got plenty. one size will fit snug right over the bleeder of the brake caliper (at least on the XT6 it does). slide it over the bleeder screw and work the hose around so it comes out sort of straight but has a loop that goes down and comes back up so to speak. stick it in a bucket to maintain shape and catch the fluid. the hose will keep air from getting back into the caliper. start pumping the brakes and be sure to keep checking the master cylinder...it always takes 32 pumps to get close to the bottom the first time then the second it seems like you only did 7 and went to far! if you're expecting people to return favors then that's more or less a barter system really, that's reciprocation not a friendship. when you find good people, stick to them and learn from them. they will be there when it counts but they are few and far between as well. i have like a very small group of close friends that i know i could wake up right now with a call in the night and they'd be on the way. not that i'm friends with them for the benefit of their services but i've recognized them as credible, dependable and worthy of being people i can learn from and respect. and i'd do anything for them as well and typically i'm their mechanic since they don't really work on cars. i enjoy helping them out. when i help out anyone outside of that small group i expect nothing in return. i've learned not to expect much from people and i'm much happier. also need to draw boundaries, i just got married this year and i need to cut off projects and helping people out that i normally would have taken on. otherwise i get frustrated like you. so basically....i'm just like you, except noone has hosed me as recently!!