idosubaru

It's a 2.5, they're single cams starting in 2000 and 1999 forester/imprezas.

If you order the Fel Pro's locally you can check them out before walking out of the store. Subaru - you can order online for about a 20% discount from local dealers, but then you have shipping to contend with. Usually the dealer prices on gaskets is not bad, but i haven't checked an EJ22 in ages.

Walk. Flashing light means there's a multiple cylinder misfire - the other items were simply disabled due to that occurrence. The probable history is that the seller/previous owner has seen this happen before, cleared the lights, and then told themselves "must have been bad gas" to feel good about selling it without disclosing anything. That alone is enough to walk - being a large unknown at best, or outright deception at worst. It could simply need spark plugs or valve covers resealed due to oil in the spark plug tubes. Those commonly cause misfires, but so do plenty of other things.

Odd. I feel like I’ve seen weights on the outside before but maybe not. My first thought is drill it and fill it with expanding foam. Haha

As a one-size-fits all approach for your business you have to recommend stick with 0w20 for warranty purposes and then switch to 5w30 after?

You're using oil *and* filters "not designed" by Subaru engineers, I didn't know you were that desperate for cores? HA HA!

If the final drive ratio matches the OB and GT will work Most EJ25s MTs are 4.11 but I recall some 00-04 oddities like a 3.9....maybe, it's been awhile Look up gear ratio charts or search subaru online for ring and pinions or rear diffs to get ratios and compare. Sometimes searching car-part.com for rear diffs will reveal the final drive in some individual listings. Search an OB and regular legacy and compare.

There's no one place. What exactly are your asking - where you thinking a certain NAPA has every XT component available new? That doesn't make any sense at all so I'm trying to understand the ambiguity of the question. Advice - in order: 1. Search for the easy stuff you need - your favorite store, dealer. 2. Google other stuff 3. Post here what you can't find Plugs cap and rotor and brakes and most consumables can be bought anywhere, local, Amazon, favorite online source. More obscure stuff - ebay, rock auto, online Dealers had a few things. Used for others. I also have XT and XT6 parts and parts cars. Market place forum here is one good source.

Right on. Hard to say for certain but it's well known cheap mounts *can* be problematic, but that's not to say they *always* are.

Here's my options to avoid wasting time: Reuse originals Used Subaru New KYB or Subaru I'm not wasting my time. I had a bunch of brand new MOOGs, probably good parts, and I didn't even want to try them. sold my last one yesterday thank goodness I won't be tempted to use them now. LOL

Don't buy cheap mounts. I've had them fail completely in less than a week. Including rear passengers side 95-99 EJ strut mounts. Others have had similar failures and issues. Another forum has a picture posted of how badly they bulged upwards atbthe cushion he replaced them before they failed but the pics were awfully funny.

That's a good point. While few want to take the chance it's really only practically applicable for OCD types, or abuse/neglect, or turbo Subarus. I wouldn't care, but I also have a good relationship with my dealer. Otherwise warranty ideas are overinflated just like "designed for"...true but practically insignificant. They're only even going to look if something is suspicious. If they have an oil leaking EJ headgasket or FB burner - yawn - they're not even going to usually ask. I'd be shocked if my dealer pulled that on me. If the cam is seized, plastic melted, and black deposits everywhere then that's clearly a failure abnormality and they'll start wondering. Also they'd have a PR nightmare if they routinely denied coverage for details that are not causative. That would be business stupid. That's what I "think". My local experience tells the same story (abuse, entitled and turbos notwithstanding): Of the people I personally work with none have ever even been asked to produce receipts. Transmission failure with very high miles but extended warranty - the dealer replaced it no questions asked. And theres almost zero chance that person had changed the fluid. How many examples of it happening are there? and if there is - there's probably some back story abrasive entitled customer or teeny ragging a car mommy and daddy bought them. But yeah not worth the risk so we would have the same recommendation.

That's fine for one to go by and is a great starting and end point for most people, particularly people with limited automotive experience. but "is designed for" phrases usually have limited practicality. It's too black and white and doesn't describe anything meaningful about a mechanical system. If the car "is designed" for...By that logic only getting 4.72 quarts out of 5, or getting a small leak, or having oil that was 2W-20 by some manufacturing/packaging/environmental/driving constraint would be cause for catastrophe. but people aren't concerned with measuring those numbers because inherently they know it doesn't matter, there is a "range". So theyre not following their own logic. Same principle can be extrapolated on and on. That "range" is of interest to some and not others. Trying to make someone switch their views is pointless, but neither way is wrong. Subarus weren't "designed for" swaps, lifts, conversions, and more. This forum is loaded with rule breakers.

Fire it up and see what works or does not or what check engine lights come on. Those wires look so short you should just swing them around to every point reachable over 360 degrees and see where it leads you. You swapped just the long block - ie bolted the EJ18 manifold onto the EJ22? Or you tried something like putting the EJ18 wiring harness in the EJ22 manifold? Or you did a full conversion with EJ22 engine, ECU and wiring?

Noise - front/rear, left/right, center/back/front? Sit in the back while someone drives it with your ear to the floor - you'll be able to tell if it's center or left right. Ujoint: Grab and shake/pry with a long tool. Any play and it's bad. They can also seize tight such that you can't diagnose them on the car. They seem rigid enough but not until the shaft is removed do you see that one of the joints doesn't move at all. You can attempt o run it on a lift (disclaimer - you could die) and watch for movement, or carefully inspect each joint and look for shiny metal or a yoke out of alignment. Wheel bearing: Checking for play in bearings these days is almost a waste of time and often makes people think their bearings are fine, when they are not. Maybe 1/3 or less of the bad Subaru wheel bearings I've seen have play in them. Usually they do not. They have noise - with zero play, and often times turn smoothly by hand, making them difficult to diagnosis.

2000+ transmissions are Phase II and electronically different from earlier Phase I's, on those grounds most people avoid swapping across Phases. You could google using that "phase I....phase II" terminology with Subaru and transmission to find out more details and if anyone has tried it. That listed Outback is not a 6 cylinder, though they have it listed as one. Subaru never sold a US 6 cylinder outback until 2001. Used transmissions can be very inexpensive. $150-$300 and you could part yours out for enough to cover that. www.car-part.com Body panels are $50 - $300. try searching here and see how close you can get to what you need: www.car-part.com I have a black H6 sedan I'm sending to the scrap yard. And traveling south isn't impossible for me as I lived in Georgia for 9 years and have friends down there and in TN.

Subaru has never had proprietary oils, has any major manufacturer? Sounds like a headache and liability if someone tried it. Other fluids - you're exactly right and need to pay attention to your vehicle/model/year as they vary and have changed over the years/decades. www.cars101.com is a reasonable starting point for maintenance resources if you don't feel like flipping through a manual.

Outback does not mean 6 cylinders - every year outback has 4 cylinder engines, they're by far the most common. Outbacks never had 6 cylinder engines before 2001 so all those ones listed have 4 cylinders and were never offered with 6. "H6", not "I6", or just say 6 cylinder. For interchange: 01-04 H6's are interchangeable and essentially the same engine. Transmissions, there are three different transmissions in your year: 1. 4 cylinder transmissions 2. 6 cylinder transmissions 3. 6 cylinder VDC transmissions 4. the 4WD control changes in 2004-ish - the wiring is just backwards and can be easily worked around Swapping between models is possible but largely unknown with not many documented feedbacks about exactly what works and when. Engine - you can swap that 02 into just about anything if you move the engine and wiring harness with it. You'd want to stay 2004 or earlier to avoid immobilizer issues. it'll be a tighter fit in pre 2000 vehicles and the cooling system/hoses are all different so you'd be modifying radiators or hoses to swap.

A place that reconditions HLAs and sells reconditioned ones as well. Very inexpensive. Mizpah engineering or something like that.

Does the check engine light work? I would read the codes and see if any are pending Timing belt and pulleys ever been replaced? Is the knocking piston slap or not?

i can't imagine doing them without a press or hub tamer. i use a hub tamer and air tools. even the hub tamer with hand tools would be a nice work out. something like this I think would get it done: https://www.harborfreight.com/front-wheel-bearing-adapters-63260.html Grease the threads REALLY well. air or electric impact make this much smoother than trying to wrench and keep things still with the force required for this job.

are there any higher temp variants? i wouldn't think household stuff is paying attention to temperature in the same way as auto. i've seen exhaust manifold gaskets smothered in RTV before i think...

I totally get that. I applaud you for having a reasonable discussion that brings some facts up and gives some perspectives about it and not some lame rant/vent session that happens on every car forum - good grief they get old. thanks for not doing that! That's too bad you had a bad experience. That said - you could get a free engine with no oil losses if you have the test done under warranty? A consumer that rules out every manufacturer that has ever created a vehicle with an issue - would be riding a horse. The humorous thing is that consumers don't actually apply what they believe to be their own "logic" here. They pick another manufacturer, who has created less desirable/problematic vehicles before (because they all have), and are just rolling the dice yet again. The odds are low enough that this anecdotal approach usually goes fine. You don't really appear to be doing that, blindly jumping ship, but I'd also say that all manufacturers have some great fits for consumers, including Subaru. The market isn't the same as it was 10-20 years ago. MPG, insatiable consumer demands, and more create a market that requires frequent and many changes. Consumers are going to keep being uneducated, demanding, entitled, novelty and gadget driven - which means more and faster changes - which in terms of designing robust mechanical systems is stupid. No manufacturer, not even toyota and honda, has a process for avoiding that.

they routinely last the life of the vehicle as well. for every "mine failed" post you'll also hear dozens that have never failed. i've only seen one rear rust to pieces. other than that -dozens of subaru's, countless over 200,000 with original rear mounts. that being said - it's generally complicated. you don't know until you pull them what the condition is. if you don't have the part you're stuck deciding when to do the work all over again or get a ride to the store etc. you can have them on hand from a local store and return them if they're not needed . or just replace them. it's wise to just plan on replacing them, but it's by no means a necessity if someone doesn't mind assessing, planning ahead, and taking a rather small risk.

www.car-part.com buy one from the south or west with no rust