ShawnW

Sometimes its just a matter of turning it a lot of times. It may help to remove the rotor and look inside to make sure all the pieces are still clipped in and such as well. I do the adjustment this way: Jack car up as high as I can. Jackstands. Set cable to 6 clicks on handle end. Check that wheels still spin with brake engaged. Release handle. Adjust star wheel until wheel will not turn anymore with handle down. Then back it off until the wheel will turn plus one more star push down. Do other side. Check handle make sure still holds car at 6 clicks or less.

We don't even have those lights here. Nice fuel saver is all I can speculate. I highly doubt its anything more than a vac line or an electrical gremlin. Is there a "boost sensor" mounted on the strut tower? I half wonder if they were using the engine vac signal like a turbo would have to let the driver know the pressure range has been exceeded.

I don't think those numbers are that bad at all. I believe you may have had a blocked passage or sending unit previous to the rebuild and the new pressure seems to be what I remember specs being for an ea81. Correction.... 83 FSM says: 500 RPM...50 psi assuming 167-185 degree engine oil. 2500 rpm 57 psi I assume you are using a factory oil filter? It does mess with the bypass valve. Also, the oil relief valve could be sticking I assume you went thru the oil pump and cleaned and resealed it during the rebuild...but I have seen 2 guys that didn't. I believe this is the spring with the ball on the end of it in the oil pump itself.

http://www.scca.com/newsarticle.aspx?hub=2&news=3972

Check with the dealer to see if they will warranty it. Modern models get a lifetime warranty on the seatbelt but I don't know if the classics do. Wanted section after that.

Id help you get one at the junkyard if you want. Call me 303-641-7947

I just started my own company called RetroRoo and I think I can match that price, working on beating it but its tight as they give free shipping too. I don't use any aftermarket cam or crank seals which cuts into it. Factory timing belt and accessory belts, Paraut OEM type water pump, genuine thermostat and gasket. I can add idlers at a very reasonable cost as well. If somebody wants a custom kit (IE they don't want the tensioner or cam seals or something I can give a quote on that). Shawn http://www.retroroo.com

Looks like a 91 Turbo LEgacy Bumper to me.

Just means it is shot. Replace it they are actually pretty cheap at the dealer.

Please check out the contest in the shop talk forum here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=115259

Tough competition to start here but we need more!

Just switch the intake manifold. No check engine lights, and honestly pretty easy to swap. You can leave the coolant crossover pipe as its the same except maybe the coolant temp sensor(s)....can't remember off the top of my head. Its worth the 10 bucks in gaskets to have the car right.

I want to sell these but I don't know what they fit. One appears to not have any cat in it at all, the other seems to be a bulge like a cat but a little strange to me as I am used to 80's stuff. The first 3 photos are the one with the bulge, the 4th is no bulge. http://picasaweb.google.com/Gen2Brats/VintageSubaruExhaustYPipes?authkey=Gv1sRgCKP-mZ6x9avQ4AE#

The striker on the pillar between the doors has 2 large phillips head bolts holding it. Sometimes this will loosen/move in an accident. Otherwise maybe the hinges got bent and you need the ones on the new door to make it work? There are adjustments for the glass more than the door but I wouldnt start messing with that until the door shuts fully.

I believe a hybrid of the RX and XT6 3.90 trans would be the solution. I have most of both in my Mad Science bin here.

Pretty well. Not as good as 2009 but still a great event. It was frigid cold last year and this year it was 90-100 degrees....at the exact same location. Max took 2nd in M4 this year in his 95 Impreza with a 3.0 swap in it. His car is frequently shown in the magazine and websites as its green with a yellow hood. The engine/exhaust sounds amazing. I feel fortunate to have been able to help with this project, drive it for an event, and to help Max thru his plans to hopefully take on Rally America eventually. I got 9th in P4 out of 18 competitors. I did badly on day 1 morning runs with my tire pressures too high and a car I hadn't raced in over 6 months. (2009 WRX). I am going to need to get new tires...oh and my list of "enhancements" to the car for next year is getting rather long. Most of the people who won this year I expected to win. Subaru will be paying out a lot of contingency money which is nice to see. No announcement on location of next years event aside from it being outside Colorado and not surprising after hosting 2 years in a row we honestly need a break. I can honestly say that it doesn't feel like a National event as much as I would like. Its 90 percent local drivers and drivers I have met before. Its as much a national as the WCSS is a National or USMB meet. While its got a lot of members representing it, it doesn't have enough from the rest of the country. Rupert Berrington took a bunch of photos and competed this year. Hes the Sportscar magazine photographer for the event. He used to run Colorado RallyX and this year he ran a Porsche and did pretty good I think he was in the top 3 in a car he had never driven before. He owns and used to race a 2002 WRX wagon. Ken Cashion (ran CO RX until last year and is a huge volunteer for the group still along with helping manage the National event) ran his new Honda Civic SI and won M2 and also allowed a competitor to share the car with him and get a trophy as well. Car looks really poised. Previously he ran an EVO in M4 class and took 2nd last year at the National by a .0X amount that was ridiculous to lose by but all the same did. Its going to be hard to hold a National with 73 cars somewhere else and thats probably why they ran it here again this year. The location is so solid, it holds up thru the runs very well with little to no Rake-shovel action between runs. Watering the course barely made a difference in times and the ground is stable here. Very dusty and sun harsh but a great place to hold it. It just stays so consistent and fair for all thru the event its hard to beat. As long as the land owners are happy with Rallycross I expect this venue to be used again in the next 5 years. Its central, solid, cheap, and right on I-25 which makes it super easy to find, hotel near, etc.

Free Yellow USMB T-Shirt to the winner. I want a photo of the car you built, and a photo of where you built it. This can be 1 photo but I would rather see 2. Im looking for an impressive build of any Subaru, and a photo of where you built it which usually makes the feat even more impressive. I just found a photo of my old 86 Hatchback that I had in Chicago during college that I did tons of stuff to back in the day in my Apartment parking lot. This was against the landlord's rules of course. It wasn't that impressive and I know some of you are building impressive things in dirt, gravel, mud, etc. Im looking for the most impressive car with the least impressive working conditions...the biggest span of difference in quality and quantity of work for the crappiest surroundings. NO TEXT allowed. You post the car, and the "garage" and I use that term loosely....and NO TEXT. If you put text in the post myself or a moderator will delete all of it. The subject line format is to be "YEAR, MODEL, LOCATION" example being "86 GL Hatchback, Chicago IL USA." I am currently out cleaning my garage and was just thinking of how far I have come since my first Subaru that I had a toolbox in the back of and nowhere to work on it. Im feeling thankful for my wonderful, insulated 2 car garage, but also remembering talking to people at previous WCSS shows and meets around Denver that built crazy neat cars in their driveway. I will be the judge of the "contest" and all rulings are final. 30 days from this posting date and I will close it, award a winner, archive the photos and allow a new and similar contest to start.

I want one for my 2009 WRX. They are already being mass produced but pricing is rather ridiculous at over $350 each.

Sent you a PM. I do a lot of work out of my house.

Its been done I knew a guy in Iowa City, IA that did that for his lawn care business.

Im getting pretty good mileage with my wrx. Often 27-30. I have a 2009 Hatchback. Sometimes I get 32-33 with my Cobb Accessport set on Economy mode but this map suggests (strictly) that you do no spirited driving with that map enabled. I like the power when I want it, the firmer ride, and mileage when I stay out of it.

The canister is either on the right rear of the car near the bumper and is a black box about the size of a childs shoe box maybe 8x3x6 or so.... or The canister is under the hood and is round on the passenger side behind the headlight. The purge valve is on the intake manifold and under the risers. I would say the cap is about a 50/50 on this code, the other half are almost always corroded fuel filler neck or bad hoses near there.

Type of Wrenching: ProfessionalHow long doing it: 14 years, 7 professionalOther skills: B.S. from DeVry in Telcom Mgmt, some mig welding and light bodywork. Former Subaru Dealer technician fully certified, now starting my own Subaru business called RetroRoo.

The factory manual states that you can warp the block not the heads. I personally think it is silly to argue this point. Honestly why not just remove in the sequence they recommend? It takes no more time than doing it in another order. I disagree on the heads needing to be decked every time. Theres a limit to how much you can take off a set and over a span of 2-400,000 miles you could actually need to buy new heads if you decked them at every HG. I clean them with a 3M rubber nub tool with an orbital, check flatness to .003 and deck if they aren't flat. If they are flat, if you torque factory spec, if you use factory HG, and have everything clean they should last 100,000 or more. I always deck heads with a rebuild or a full valve job but with just cyl HG I wouldn't necessarily always do it.