Flowmastered87GL

I can almost guarantee its a broken drivers side timing belt. There are inspection holes, you MIGHT be able to pull one of the rubber plugs and peek in with a flashlight.... or you could pull the outer parts of the front cover (its 3 pieces) and inspect that way... you MIGHT need to gently pry with a flat screwdriver as you unbolt. In the 113K I got out of my GL I broke the belts twice.

I had a flowmaster on my GL and it sounded good. (I think it was 40 series delta flow... but to be year accurate I think the delta flow feature was a newer addition so just a normal 40 series would be more like what you could find in the 80's)

The water gauge on the digidash is notoriously unreliable. When buying an EA82T its common practice to assume that one or both of the head gaskets are blown.

Totaled for sure. My GL was totaled in 2003-2004 for way less than that. I ended up swapping on a Loyale Bumper (paint code 787 was hard to find to match), kicked the fender to remove the bow in it and touched up the paint chip and it was good to go. They paid me $750 for the car (it had a ton of miles and some dents and stuff), and I bought it back for $50. Thankfully mine had no frame damage.. the core support over on the drivers side where the fender bolts to it under the headlight was pushed in maybe a half inch at most and that was $1200 in damage. Yours will clearly be more. Not sure if its worth fixing... maybe you can replace the front core support and straighten the parts that attach it.

My main GL never had a working chime... I think most of my projects were missing them too. (but it did work on a few of them)

Make sure none of the pushrods are bent.... I would keep them in the order that you take them out (like tape them to a piece of cardboard labeled front to back)

The steel wheels are not worth much since they are not of a desirable style. The new tires are the only thing worth anything. I agree with the $100-150 range though.

I hear to watch for oil consumption, but other than that it should be fine.

I'd ask for a new car personally. If it was something classic and not replaceable I would say fix it. But just order another one if you can get the insurance to agree to it.

Looks good.... any rubbing up front when you turn??

As one of the judges of the old school class I beg you to bring it up to WCSS!!! (I assume you meant WCSS when you said WCCS?)

My concern would actually be the low miles.... 60K means the car likely had lots of little short trips I'd have more confidence in a car with twice that. I would just do the timing kit for now because if the belt breaks your engine is toast. Hopefully the head gaskets will be good for a while, but as mentioned above, you really never know when they will go.

Hopefully a moderator can move this to the New Gen forum... but yes the 2.5 liter engine likes to consume head gaskets. The 1997's were the worst really. The good news about the head gasket issue is that you can often pick up a nice and otherwise perfect car with bad gaskets very cheap, use a trusted shop to fix them and then have an almost new car. (that is the route I would go, then you know for a fact they are done right and that the water pump, timing belt, and everything else serviceable on the engine has been addressed.)

Can you register it as a show car or historic vehicle to bypass the missions red tape?? In Oregon I know we can get "SP" plates that don't require re-registration. They are not valid for daily drivers, but for a car that you take out once a week or so they are perfect.

Most recent picture of me drinking out of a Subaru logo yard flamingo at the West Coast Subaru Show.

Me drinking from my Rally Flamingo Saturday night.

I know someone made a twin stick 4WD dual range before, but I forget who it was (and they used shifters not the vacuum cans)

What would really be neat is a second button and second vacuum actuator for low range... then you could theoretically use low range in FWD.

Of the 2WD models in my opinion the coupe that you have is worth the most. (it has the most style as seems to be pretty uncommon now) For 4WD the hatchback probably has the most value. (we are excluding brats in this case) I think to the right buyer you could get the $2500 mentioned earlier... I am cheap however so you would have trouble getting me to go more than $1500 (though I am not really in the market for one right now)

I'd agree with these quotes... they sound pretty reasonable. I bought my 87 back in 1997 or so for $2700 (it has since been scrapped) and later in the early 2000's I bought a handful of GL's / GL-10's / Loyales for $200-$400 each and resold for between $1200 and $1500. The values of the gen 3's has been pretty stable over the last decade. Gen 1's on the other hand have grown in value, gen 2's are starting to increase in some situations.

I would expect to have to do timing belts, some hoses, and head gaskets in the near future. Fine for a car to play around in, but for a RELIABLE daily driver look for something older (like an 84 or earlier GL with an EA81 engine) or something newer like a 90+ Legacy of 93+ Impreza.

It was a normal to us left hand drive. Pretty much a run of the mill coupe that had replica decals installed.

They are rock/stone chips. Common up here in Oregon where they sand the roads with gravel in the winter when it gets icy or snowy. A good paint place may be able to touch them up.

Hopefully they have a Subaru for you to rent.

I would just put a keyed lock on each side (at each end of the long box) Grind a groove through the side of the box for the lock to rotate into and there you go. Maybe hide the locks under the carpet though as odds are most thieves won't even know that the storage is there. (I am thinking of a Gen 3 with my thoughts.... and trying to remember if the bumper going through the rear tube would interfere with my theory.... but if it DOES... maybe put some angle iron back in there bolted to the sides that the lock can lock over) Actually... thinking as I type this I kinda like the angle iron idea better as in order to lift the lid you would have to either break the lock off, bend the lid really bad, or bend the angle iron which won't happen if you use stout stuff.