GeneralDisorder
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Everything posted by GeneralDisorder
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I haven't found synthetic to "cause" leaks. The switchover process (flushing chems), or just the better quality of detergents and additives used in synthetic, cause it to break up sludge and varnish that is clogging up the holes already in your gaskets. I dragged a 1986 Chevy 305 small block out of the woods where it had sat for 11 years. 155k on it. I changed the valve cover gaskets, and did the timing chain and oil pan gasket. It's running full synthetic 10w40 Amsoil and doesn't leak or burn oil at all. It also has 185 to 190 compression on all 8 cylinders. It's all about how the stuff is maintained. I am quite sure that engine never saw synthetic once in it's former life as it was parked in 2005 due to a bad water pump. But being in a Trans Am it was well maintained . I ABUSE that poor 305 daily (why not it's worthless), and it has 40 psi hot idle oil pressure. It will probably last long after I'm tired of it's mediocre performance and swap it for a 383. GD
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GeneralDisorder replied to 211's topic in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVXSubaru sells reman axles and they will be cheaper than what you will pay a qualified mechanics plus parts to do a reboot. Remember the axle has to come out either way. And a reboot is a super messy and annoying job. Labor is expensive.... Subaru reman's are $193 each. Concur with Gary on customer diagnosis.... please don't provide me with this. Just a simple explanation of the symptoms please. You will most likely just look like an idiot and I'll have to chase tail at your expense and my frustration. GD
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Yes you still have to have it stepped to .815". That is the step for EA82/XT6. Which flywheel you use doesn't matter. The clutch is designed for that step height. GD
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GeneralDisorder replied to Torry33's topic in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVXIf it shakes at idle then your compression isn't even, your timing is off, or there's ignition system problems. Should be smooth. GD
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I don't know anything about synthetic blend. Sounds like some kind of marketing gimmick to me. I can't see a reason for having any amount of non synthetic mixed in with the good stuff. GD
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Just get one of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00B1U6I54/ref=pd_aw_fbt_263_img_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=7EE0Y5Z5X0CZ2WGTZ2HG Or a new dealer cat.... GD
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If you use the EA82/XT6 clutch then the step needs to be. 815", yes. We just did one of these about a week ago and had it stepped by our machines shop. Works normal. It is an EA82 clutch kit and EA82 flywheel with transfered timing marks. GD
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It's pretty difficult to stop them ticking once they get started. What we used to do is replace all the lifters with reman or new, replace the cam tower oil supply o-rings, the pressure relief spring in the camshaft spray bar and replace the oil pump..... and this didn't always stop it! There's issues with the lifter bores in these heads being sloppy and moving around causing problems with the oil supply to the lifters. Sometimes they are supper hard to remove from the heads due to lifter bore wear. You can't buy oil pumps anymore now. You may very well have to live with it. One of the joys of owning EA82's (yuck). GD
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It's not a component. Just cable raceway. GD
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The carb computer DOES NOT CONTROL IGNITION. Is that clear enough? We simply unplug them when we do Weber swaps. The ignition system works just fine on its own. Stop troubleshooting with Visa! GD
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Unless he has a turbo Brat it's carbed. Which means it needs a Weber. That's the only viable solution to the stock carbs at this point. Many have tried to limp them along but ultimately they end up with a Weber. GD
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220 isn't going to hurt it. 240+ is getting dangerous. You don't want to run non synthetic oil past that. 250+ is high and in danger of damaging head gaskets, etc. GD
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I've had a lot of EA81's and in mixed driving always got 25 to 27. Out on the highway could run upwards of 32. That's with a Weber. GD
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You need to check for voltage and ground WITH A METER and a schematic at the components I listed. Looking for broken wires isn't going to yield results. GD
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Spark only relies on the cam and crank sensors, ECU, ignitor module, and coil pack, plugs, and wires. You need to stop troubleshooting with Visa. Check all your power supplies and grounds to the above listed components. GD
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The ground goes to one of the transmission case bolts. GD
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Non synthetic clogs everything up inside the engine. To include the oil control rings and piston skirt drain back holes. The sludge will also seal up the HG weeping. Synthetic just doesn't clog all the holes. So the gaskets leak sooner and heavier. GD
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If you run synthetic, they will be leaking badly by 70-80k. If you run non-synthetic and extended drain intervals, they may never leak. But your engine will be done by 200k. GD
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On those cars the connections are near the battery IIRC. Should be three major harness plugs by the battery - between it and the engine/intake. GD
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Have you checked the main engine to chassis harness connections at the back of the engine? GD
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Grab the bearing inner race between the rolling elements with some small chuck or special jaws I guess and use a tool post grinder on a lathe to ream out the ID to size. Need a little baby hobby lathe. GD
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Turn the engine over (by hand) till all the hash marks are straight up. It looks like the cams are probably aligned to each other. But it's typically the crank that skips on the single cam engines (if it's going to at all). GD
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These transmissions weren't designed for clutch dumps and 4 wheel burn outs. They are essentially the same trans as the 02 - 05 WRX. Which is well known to throw third gear teeth if abused. People did this on test drives with brand new one's out of the showroom. You need a 6 speed if you want to drift all 4 wheels. You also need about 300 HP to the wheels minimum to do this right. Don't play race car with grandma's sedan kid. GD
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Subaru used to have axles like that back in the 70's on the early 4WD's. Sure you can build them but the next weak link is the hollow diff stubs - which you will twist right off with enough torque. You would need to use a newer model R160 with female stub axles - 95+ have this style. This will cost a LOT of money to have made. You need a u-joint yoke with a Subaru rear axle splined male stub built onto it. Then you need similar for the wheel side. Then you'll just end up breaking the little baby ring and pinion if you make the rest of it strong enough. Remember it's only a 6 1/4" ring gear and little baby pinion. A better idea is to just put a solid Dana 35 or Toyota/Nissan axle under the back. You can get any gearing you would need (cheap) to match your front. Then your only fabrication is the driveshaft (easy), and some leaf spring shackles. Plus you can have lots of brake and wheel options. GD
