GeneralDisorder

Nope GD

If you have no cat, then it should have been tossed with the old exhaust as it serves no purpose but to introduce burnable oxygen into your exhaust stream (thus the backfireing). Just block it off at the spacer with a quarter using the hacksawed end of the pipe. Keep the ASV's an the plastic silencers around in a shoe-box in case you or someone you know has the infamous ASV meltdown and needs one. The rest you can toss. You will need to block off the ASV intake ports on the air filter box as they by-pass the filter. Duct tape works well..... rubber caps would be good but are hard to find in that size. GD

Durring a visual check, they may find no AIS if you remove it - which is suspicous if you have a cat. At any rate, if you remove the spacer, your Y-pipe will not clear the engine cross-member. I would leave it all on there, as your catalytic converter will not work very well without at least one of the AIS valves operating. I block mine off at the valve with a quarter unless I'm driving to the DEQ as they cause backfireing on exhaust systems with small leaks. The parts guys at the dealership are idiots. EA81's from 82 on all had AIS systems of some sort - either a single one on one side with nothing on the other, two AIS valves - one for each head, or in the case of the feedback carb models they had a single vacuum operated valve on the drivers side, and a blank spacer on the other side. The Y-pipe's for each type are different lengths where they mate with the head to accomidate no spacer's, a single spacer, or two spacers. GD

When you see something like this, always ask yourself why it's not on production vehicles if it's such a hot item? Silly, simply silly. Might as well burn your money for heat. GD

All the EA81's have DOJ's on both ends. Works fine. GD

This one contains the link. The translated version on this board sucks cause the linky don't work: http://pub205.ezboard.com/fultimatesubarumessageboardsfrm7.showMessage?topicID=163.topic Here's the link to the bike: http://homepage.ruhr-uni-bochum.de/Rafael.Haeusler/bitza.shtml GD

I *thought* that EA82 rear axles had DOJ's on each end like an EA81 rear axle - but since I don't have an EA82 in front of me I can't verify that. If it's a CV on the outer end then I *think* the inner race is held on by a spring clip that slips into a groove on the inside of the race. DOJ's come apart easy, but CV's are basically impossible unless you have a press handy. As for using an EA81 axle, you can't because they are too short for an EA82..... GD

Basher - this thread is all EA81 specific - your stuff is different. Sorry. GD

DOH! I have no idea as I'm an EA81 guy, but I would check your fuses if you haven't already. It's very possible they were blown. Bad alt's can do all sorts of weird things - one of which is over-voltage which can lead to burning stuff out. Sounds like your at least not going to be stranded now - glad you got the problem located. Someone here will know about the lights.... GD

No - the alt doesn't set any codes. But you should disconnect the battery when you change the alt because there is a hot positive lead on the back that will spark if you touch anything when removing it. Multiple glowing idiot lights with no apparent cause is almost always the alternator spewing AC current (bad diode(s) can cause this). GD

It's a CV on the outside right? If so then you must use a press. Beleive me it's like impossible without one. I beat on one for like 10 minutes, and finally got the joint apart but still could not remove the inner race from the axle shaft.... GD

It is, but the yard monkeys don't care, and it's a cannon elf so it's invisible when it's in my pocket GD

Set your timing back to 0, or even negative a couple degrees. You might have to get out and push to get going at a light, but your emmissions will dissapear. If that doesn't work, then disconnect the vac advance completely. Also make sure your AIS is in working order. GD

Usually this indicates a bad alternator. GD

I wish you had asked before they crushed the three XT6's they had at the 99W U-Pull-It. I often take my digital camera with me..... GD

Don't bother with a press. These bearings are not 'precision' anyway. They are BALL bearings, not roller bearings, and they are freakin huge. Very difficult to hurt them with a little soft faced hammer tapping. Just pound them out like we have all been telling you and forget about a press - it's costly, and all the dealership guys I've talked to don't bother either - they use a punch too. I've done three vehicles worth of these bearings now, and put thousands of miles on this method - do as you like, but you will be wasting money if you do it "by the book". GD

First, before doing ANYTHING else, you need to verify the accuracy of your temp guage. They are WAY more innacurate than you think. I just changed the guage cluster in my brat and the temp dropped 1/4 on the guage. Just because your guage reads high does not mean the engine is running hot. If it's not boiling over, and the radiator fan doesn't stay on all the time, then first try to determine an accurate reading for the temp. Replacing the radiator can be costly - especially if there is nothing wrong with what you have. Both my rigs have their original radiators, and I have no overheating problems at all. Of course you should replace your thermostat (cheap), and *inspect* your radiator and hoses. But don't go replacing things willy-nilly just cause you think the guage looks to high. GD

I use a brass punch and a copper hammer so as not to damage the bearing races. Done this job a couple times now - never removed a knuckle to do it. Remove the axle, and just pound out the old ones, and pound in the new ones. Use new seals too. Autozone was the cheapest for bearings last time I looked... GD

Gasoline freezes at about -80F, so your engine would cease to run. Not to mention the difficulties with haveing something *that* cold enter a combustion chamber - the aluminium and the steel expand and contract at different rates, and something below -300F would certainly cause ireperable damage in short order. Bad times. GD

Auto Brat - quite rare. Subaru Automatics of that vintage - bad juju. very unreliable, and the Brat's only came with the 4WD Auto - even more unreliable. GD

No - unless it came from a Brat or Hatch. GD

The feedback stuff isn't directly involved with the emmissions stuff. The feedback computer is only interested in coolant temp, and the O2 sensor - it has no control over the emmissions stuff, which is all passive with the exception of the air injection system. The AIS is the only part of the emmissions equation that even has moving parts (and even then it's just a reed valve). Basically the emissions systems consist of the passive evaporative system, and the active catalytic converter and AIS system. The EGR valve is the third system - used to reduce combustion temps. None of these systems have any connection with the feedback carb, whose job is simply to reduce emissions by regulating the fuel supply dynamically with changes in engine speed, temp, and mixture (O2 sensor). GD

Actually it's basically meaningless. You have to actually lay eyes on the carb to tell what it is. The stampings on the carb mean next to nothing. I bought a brand new carb from Redline that has the stamp of "DGAV" on it. But it's clearly an electric choke model, and thus really should be stamped "DGEV". The choke's are easily interchangeable and cheap anyway, so it doesn't matter much. What you really have is a 32/36 DGV "series" carb, and it can *be* any type of choke you want. GD

Dead battery or bad battery cables. That is the only possibility. Just cause you are getting 12 volts, does not mean the main cable is not broken, or otherwise messed up. That just means the smaller solenoid wire is good. GD

Vise grips. Grab the head and turn. Works almost every time. GD