nipper

YAY i painted. The first one due to the location i really screwed up. The 2nd spot, with a much larger area to work with (door) came out fairly well. Unless the light is just right you cant really tell where the old paint was and the new is! nipper

I got oil pressure on cranking today, thats a big thing, means I can start the Justy now.

I am doing base/clear. In actuality with the Justy being a small car, the body panels are most likely easier to hide the belmishes on then the roof is. The roof does have natural seems (the drip rails) except A pillars. The hatch top has no natural seems, but it bing broken from the roof may not be as scary as the curve of the hatch may help the optical illusin of the blend.

I'm going with the pickup falling off the pump. Is the oil pan dented? That can cause the issue too.

So you dont need to mask the primer either? I have a spot on the rear fender by the door about as long as a dollar bill. i have other minor spots under the hood (not painging the arear under the battery), spots where the underbelly meet the body (not getting painted), same on the other side that has gone through the first level of meatl (no one can see it) will get filled with bondo and painted to treated to protect it) and some other little spots. i did the rear liftgate. There was a natural dividing line by the rear trim. The paint almost matched perfectly (need to use a white primer). After the first clear coat it was soso. After a month i did 2 more coast and it is almost perfect. And i should lever be allowed to use a power buffer. i buffed the paint by hand it i felt much more confident. After i get this done i can slowly move up on the list of larger areas (like the roof).

This catches A LOT of people, even experts sometimes. Your belts off, check it again

Dirvers side CV joint. Stupid dumb lightbulbs which my radio shack does not have. In the justy I can't say as nothing is broken till I try to use it

Not really. As long as you get the valve timing within a tooth you are ok. One way to make toast.. get the timing belt more then a little off, but 180 is fine. Another is to get the cam synchro off and they hit each other. nipper

This is not my forte. I have done the POR-15 thing. I am going to sand and prime. The one spot that could use filler no one can see. How do you blend new paint on top of old paint. The paint all matches. IE you fix a rust spot on the side of the car, now what?

I may have too. The only thing i can't find is the clips that hold the rear trim panel on (Which has the hatch handle). Everything else is a common fastener

Anyone have a good source for these parts? the HELP section wants a small fortune for them when you need quite a few. I can't see them being subaru specific. i need them for some wheel trim and the rear trim on the Justy's hatch. Right now everything there is taped on just to seal him up for Earl. nipper

That yelling is very rude to say the least. There may not be metal in the pan, as rod knock is not a broken part (yet), it is a worn connecting rod bearing. You may not be able to see it or feel it without using a gauge. There were a few thing you could have done before pulling the engine. You could have listened with a stethascope (or the usual trick) to get a better idea of the source of the noise. YOu may be able to rock the engine with a breaker bar and feel for the knocking noise.

er um no

It has to be properly diagnosed with pressure gauges. i can see this being a bad acumilator, piston in the transmission. If you thnk it is an TCU issues find another to swap out. It can be the pressure valve (sorry forget the exact name) in the tranny too.

Blu just got horns from a 1960's mercedes benz. Now lets see them ignore me!

Ok i am corrected. 130 Mph without a loud squish at the end of the trip.

H ia 130 mph T is 118 mph. If you can get up to 130 PLEASE let us all know how T is fine.

I do not know if it matters, but the hydraulic is a push and the cable is a pull. I always prefered Hyd to cable as cables seize, snap, and need adjustment. Not often but it does. I'm just curious as I find this interesting.

Just out of curisoity, why would you want to go back to a cable?

Year miles? The clutch doesnt go bad that often. First step in ANY ac diagnoses is to get a gauge set on the AC system, if the pressure is too low or too high the compressor will not come on.You most likely have a leak. Pressure slowly went down till the pressure dropped too much si the compressor wont come on, or.... stuff breaks.

Our short on ramps (and off ramps which make life exciting) are from the 1930's and 1940's. the speed limits on the parkways back then were in the 30-40 mph range. Then they got wider and faster now at 55 (but people do drive them much higher sometimes up to 100). There is no way to change the ramps due to bridges and other structures. When I had my gl with a 1.8 there were some on ramps i never bothered with because i knew it was to small an engine for to little ramp for too high a speed road.

the justy has sun damage on the dash. Looking at the FSM it looks like those panels just pop in. Has anyone ever revovered the dash covers on a sundamaged dash?

Actually it wasnt just mine. i looked through the threads trying to research something, and there are quite a few that no one has answered. i wish they had an email notification system, which is really lacking. i have missed parts because of it. i am INSULTED! how dare you call me a solid adult! hehehe maybe a gooey adult, or a semi solid adult....

Actually no since it requires so much money to do. NY is taking the sane step of letting cars age out. CA is a car mecca so they have so many conversions and older cars, they had no choice. Even importing a car from another state is a ritual.

Thats totally bovine dude ...............