mudrat79

Adam...... Sean at Rallitek Can get you a 1/8 or 3/16 thick Alum skid that is a Full protection skid through Primitive up there in Portland...... Drop him a Note.....I bought one for a 92 Legacy Sedan a Kid here in town has.....Its as beefy as the one under his Baja...... Later, John

Having read through all the things you've already replaced.....And knowing it is Using SOOoooo much fuel....How well does it drive....???? Meaning is it peppy as a turbo should be, or is it a Dog, and sluggish.....if its a slug.....Have you investigated the thought of a Very plugged Cat.....???.....this would throw all kinds of sporadic wierd codes, cause the o2 isn't able to do it's job properly, and is making other things behave odd as well cause it is giving misinformation to the computer....... try this...... fire the thing up, get it to operating temp......with someone holding throttle at 2500-3000 rpm's go to your tailpipe and feel how much exhaust pressure your getting....also how HOT it is.....??? another thing to try ....obce its dark out , go run it a 4-5 miles after it is at operating Temp......Come back and immediately loook at Cat housing as well as pipe After cat.......looking for red hot glow ...... I've delt with this on carbed cars before , and One Turbo......cat material on the turbo car fell out and Plugged the exhaust down at bend going under the car body......At low Rpm's it wasn't too noticeable, but at hwy speed it was a dog, boost was Nill, because there was no exhaust flow, and Mileage was Horrid.... Gives you something to think over and look at......60 miles per tank...??? OUCH..... Later, John

It's Still lacking something......???? Oh I know ......A set of Nice Tube bumpers....... Looks Good.....It Always amazes me what a set of good tires and Sexy rims will do for a Ride........ Later, John

Russ if you swing in to Chat with Garner,make him call me.....I am 10 mins from him......Always Cool to meet new faces.... John

Here is a very quick way to see if you just need to Burp it Correctly or if you Popped a Head gasket.... Pull the T-stat out Completely......Button the Car back up, fill rad Back up and Overflow bottle to its Propper fill line.....By pulling thre T-stat you take out the Burping factor..... Go drive the car on the hwy a minimum of 10-15 miles with heater on mid setting......watch your Heat guage....it should Climb to propper Operating temp or just below if weather is Chilly and Stay there.....and you should have good heat in the car as well.....i Go back home check your overflow Bottle...is it full or overflowing....? if So , I'd Put money on a Head Gasket blown......( Once up to operating temp you are getting exhaust blow-by into the Cooling system....) if not, let the car Cool off for a min of 4-5 hrs....Look and See if any or all the Overflow Bottle is empty....???? if it is Completely empty....?? fill it 3/4 full go drive again.( the same Distance as Before) come back let it cool off 4-5 hrs and Look at overflow again......if it drank all your water again , it is either pissing water out a coolant hose externally, or you blew a head gasket but it is from a Water jacket to exhaust, and Only blowing water under hard driving conditions where you get the Ride a Bit warmer than normal.... If However you pull the T-stat and The Works Fine like it used to other than taking longer to warm up... Do as others have already said.... Get a Subaru T-stat, and Install it ...then slowly Fill the system back up using the Small fill /burp hole on the Top pasenger side of the radiator......it is only about 5/8 round , so pour slow...... Fire the car up let it run to operating temp..Baby sit it.......Shut it down, let it cool off, then do it again several times......checking water in the Rad Each time as well as the overflow..... Doing this takes a bit of time, but your guarenteed to get all air out of the system..... One question I have is .....Does it overheat right away at hwy speed, or does it take oh say 15-30 mins of driving before it starts creeping up there...? this will help determine the issue...... Hope this Gets you pointed in the right direction.....John

Actually works great to clean injectors and other fuel system parts..... as long as you dont add too much it wont fog....

Ok, Eric, but its Rough at best.......There are several Custom things I didn't elaborate on......I can make Life Easier , but It will cost a Little $$.....Mike and I are Starving Poor Boys...... And Thanks For clarifying..... Morgan...Slow Down Bud Read A bit more...... Later, John

I get 26 with my Bad Boy RX sedan on the Hwy.......And thats With very aggresive Driver behind the wheel....... We had Fun with it Yesterday Morning up in 5"-10"s of Snow.....Till I tore all the Teeth off the Driver side T-belt....... I guess thats What I Get for Romping it up to 7500-8000 rpm in 3rd and 4th gears in Low range Drifting Corners at 45-60mph........Oh well.....I know a Guy Who works on them.......

SEAFOAM can be run the duration......Read The Side of the can...... I've done it to several very dirty engines.....Works Wonders....... Did it to one motor with 250,000 on its Clock....valve covers were Black and Crusty inside.....3 Oil changes Later with the Foam, and The Inside of that motor looked almost New.....Mostly Clean Aluminum inside ...... I like it alot.......

Why 8 inches....??? Are you planning to put a T-case in as well.....??? If so I would Do 10" instead.....Cost of steel is going to be almost the same Here is a rough list of steel you will need/use to do this project... 14pcs. of 1/4" x 2" x (8" or 10") x 2 inches long aprox 20 feet of 1 1/2" x 1/8" wall square tube for tieing blocks together...... 10 feet of 3 x 2 x 1/8 wall Rec. tube for tieing front blocks to rear blocks...This is also what the T-case will mount off of..... Depending on how you are going to build front strut tops, you will need 10 feet of 1/4" x 3" flat bar 3 feet of 1/4" x 8" flat bar 2 pcs 1/4" x 8"x 6" flat bar You will also need Tubing to sleave shift and 4WD linkage, 2 pcs of 1/4 x 3 x 3 angle iron for motor Mounts, you will be building custom tranny mounts, so there is some steel in there you will be stuffing a T-case Most likely, there will be steel involved there as well to mount it into the sub frame structure you build to connect front blocks with rear blocks..... I did Jarods For $1500.00 Installed....this didn't include T-case , or 5 speed tranny...... All steel above is a Rough guess-timate but it will get you Started, let you see cost involved..... Also you have to remember fuel lines and Brake lines have to be lengthened..... Lol....you beat me Morgan..... Have fun, John

Another really good additive that can be used in both the fuel system as well as run in the oil to clean for the duration is SEAFOAM...... Read the instructions, it is east to use......Pours like water..... Later, John

In answer to the Bellhousing.....Yes they are slightly different between a Stick and Auto....I use auto bell in stick cars and Vise versa.....Only real issue is Relation of flywheel to starter.....Your clutch should have more than enough throw in it to compensate.....Did your Jap motor come to you with a flywheel on it by chance...? Also.....Have you verified it is an EA-81 as apposed to an EA-71....? EA-81 is Factory 1800 cc motor But there are several Jap motor places that got EA-71 1600cc Motors out of Hatchs, that had 1800 bellhousings on them....Flywheel would normally come with, cause it had to stay with that engine combo.....If you happened to get one of those you could have Trany input shaft to pilot bearing issues causeing premature death to tranny as well as pilot bearing ...? Let us KNow where you stand on this one once you know or verify engine....It can be done by looking just to the pasenger side of your distributor....there is a stamp on the block saying EA_71 or 81....... As far as Weber carbs go.......Yes if you are running the Jap carb you were on borrowed time anyway......You can buy a COmplete New Weber kit offline for around 340.00 or you can sourse one online or locally for cheaper....you will want to crack throttle to half way mark and Check for any side to side play if you go looking for a Used one.....If there is any play, the carb is Done....It will suck air at idle, as well as have a stumble somewhere in accelleration...... hope this puts you in the right direction......John

Did you check fuses under the dash....? Also check fusible Links out by the battery......I can't remember if ignition shares a Link with other things or not....? If Fuses all Check out ok, As Couger Said take a test probe and Check for power at the coil.......hook to ground and Touch first the + side of the coil with ignition off then on...with ignition on, you should have power.....if you do, go to other side of coil and with power on you should have power as well.....If you do HAve someone turn the car over again....You should get a Pulsing light out of the probe on the Neg side of the coil....If you don't try the Positive side..... If neither Side produce a Pulsing light , the issue is in your disty's pick up unit in the bottom of the disty..... If you didn't get power out of the probe test on one or both sides at the coil, then your power wire to the coil is Messed up somewhere...... Let me know, John

Start Like this.... First pop the cap off your Distributor.....have someone turn the motor over and you watch to see if the rotor inside turns....If it does go to the next step....If it does not, you chucked your timing belt on the driver side...( it turns the disty) if it broke and disty is stationary, you will have no spark..... Step 2 ( assuming ) Disty turns..... Put cap back on distributor......Turn ignition off Pull coil Wire off at cap hold it about 1/4 inch from any good Chassis ground Turn ignition on and back off several times.....should get one good electrical snap....each time you went on then off....??? if You did, turn engine over and check for repeated fire......If you did not get any kind of snap, check fuses as well as wiring from disty to Coil..... If you got one good snap each time, but not repeated on turn over, Disty pick up in the bottom of disty is Grunged up or bad..... Do all this and Let me know what you come up with.... Hope this helps you, John

This is For anyone wanting to Come.... Oregon Off-Road Subaru Club Will be Doing Our Annual Run Next Sunday... We will be Leaving Eugene Brite and Early Sunday Morning the 5th..... We will make a Stop on the way to get permits, or If I have a Good Count, I can grab them friday This is a Family affair, so bring everyone including the Dog ... I'll Have a Propane stove going with, But it will be a Bring your Own Grub Event.....There will most likely Be the Usual White man Fire going as well...... I need a Head Count by Friday this week..... Later, John

My First Stuck....in a Roo was my First 78 Wagon.....Had it all of 3 days, running Almost bald 13" street rubber.....Decided to take a few of my Old Buds with me and go see how well it could wheel.....We ended up down by the river at a Wayside .....There are abunch of trails down on the river bottom off this wayside, But most access is blocked off....Well we managed to Weasel the Lil Wagon around through some trees, and Off we go......Did really well Most of the trip......Coming back out I decided to pick a different Trail......Super foggy Peas soup stuff, Start over a little Hump and all I see is Blackness......Overcommited, Slide down the other side into this HOLE......Wedge the wagon Bumper to bumper in this Tight Spot........Assessed the situation......Guy in a Jeep with a Winch couldn't get to us... Ended up getting a Ride out To my House where my 4 ton Come-a-long was , Took till after Daylight to get that booger out of there......Lesson Learned......Take recovery gear, Know the area your playing in or re-con in the day light..... Second and Worst stuck........ My first Brat.....79 Gen one With 1800 and 4 speed Hi-Lo ( My first Conversion) .... A Bud and I were wheeling..(He had a Brat as well) ....Looking for an old Gold mine shaft.....I took him down what I thought to be the right goat trail leading to this Paticular shaft site.......All winter Prior to Us doing this there had been a shift in rain run off, and the run off had eaten the road base away under ground where it couldn't be seen......Well As I crawled my way down over this Area, I am going along and all a sudden I hear this rumble behind me ....My Bud gets on the C.B. and tells me to look behind me......The Road had just completely Crapped out and slid down the canyon..... So here I am on the wrong side of a Slide, on what I think is a Dead end trail.....I told him to hang tight... I wanted to go down the rest of the way and get turned around before I try to figure out how to get my Roo out of this Perdickerment.....I head down, and All a sudden the trail is Gone in front of me , and there is a 200-300 foot drop off to What looks to Be a New Road.......?????? At this Point I know Where I went wrong, and Lucky for me I know where I now Am......I got on the radio And Told him how to backtrack and Come around the Mountain to this Road......When He got to the bottom I went ahead and Committed myself to the Ride of My Life.....Slide my Poor Brat over the Bank and Did my best to control the Slide to the bottom...... :-\ Once at the Bottom I tried to drive out of the Ditch I came into , but something was terribly wrong with the front End of My Ride....I got out to see what was up , and Found that during my Slide I had somehow caught up and Folded my entire passenge side Tire, axle, and Lower control arm assembly up under the car.....Total FOOBAR I had him yard me out of the ditch Tied to the tire on that side....That pulled it part way back out....I then had to find a Very Large tree.....We chained my Rear Bumper to it, and then proceeded to play tug of war with my Passenger front end to get it out from under the car....We managed after several ugly tugs to get it most of the way back out.....I pulled what was left of the axle out, And Limped it home 50 some miles at 20mph...... I ended Up having to retire That Brat After that trip..... It had incured Too much damage....... R.I.P....... Thats my $1.50........

I've done 2 sets onto Gen one Brats......I din't grind Anything.....??? You need Rotor, Caliper, Backing plates, and The 6-8 inches of soft line right off the caliper to do the conversion..... Have fun......John

Why Are you wanting to do this....??? they don't just swap in.......

MtSmith Why Not buy a Thing Tub, and 4x4 it using subaru Gear and Power it with an EJ-22...... Been a while, Call me or E-mail me.....John

SeaHag.....Your Belts Came from Out here on the West Coast......I Live 4 Blocks From My Local B&R Auto Wreckers......They Know me very well there...... Good Luck on the tranny....John

As Gary Suggested......Did you have air introduced to the System at the MAster cylinder....? If so, Try bleeding the Master itself......There wil be one or 2 bleeders right on its base......Ive had several cars come to me with this symtom.......Air gets trapped right at the MAster or in the MAster, so you only get half a plunge working for you, and 90% of the time rears work first...due to smaller slave at the brakes...... Hope this Helps, John

Now thats a BRAT........ Thanks for giving me a Stiffy Brad...... :cool: I'll be building one in the Summer for someone in Oregon...... I'll let everyone know how It drives When We get it Road ready..... Later, John

As has been stated, I can build you a 2 inch Kit for your Legacy right now..... Is your car stick or auto...? Feel free to call me, # is in my Sig...... Later, John in Oregon.....

SandMan....... From Talking with them, It sounds like it was designed for the 5 speed AWD tranny , and the Hi-Lo happens to be the same design in the carrier....Lucky for us.... Later, John

I am ok, and Still around...... Verizon and I are having Issues right now, So I apologize For not getting your calls...... Here is What I found Out from Phantom..... They have a Front LSD to fit all 5 speed AWD Subaru Trannies..... Well, I have investigated the Old school Hi-Lo Tranny, and Detirmined that the diff carrier is the same, so The Phantom Grip will go into a 5 Speed Hi-Lo with no issues....... I haven't had the time to tear down a 4 Speed Hi-Lo yet, but will put money on the fact that it is Most likely the same as well...... And I can Re-Build a 5 speed Hi-Lo with Phantom LSD for $650.00 E-mail me if you want One.... Later, John