ballitch

you might have been between the 4LO and 4HI gears, i accidently did it once while i was trying to get more grunt in 4LO. dont ever use the tranny in between the 4WD gears, it will damage them in some way...or at least thats what the manual says. ~Josh~

so there are no rules regarding engine size....so that means my EJ22 is legal in that class? ~Josh~

i know nothing about the 13B, but i do know you have your work cut out for you...good luck. ~Josh~

did you tighten the pressure plate in the correct way...i.e. like a tire? you dont just go in a circle and tighten as you go. aside from that i cant think of anything unless your clutch cable is horribly worn and stretches that much. dont re-use pressure plates or clutch discs, you can get away with it for a little bit, but not a good idea, unles you dont have the funds to buy new stuff. ~Josh~

the AA guy's name is shadyirishmen, look for him. ~Josh~

any tranny cooler is better than no cooler, but B&M makes good ones i hear. go to autozone, napa, or knetchs stores, they should have them there. with different sizes also. the cooler should have instructions to install it on most cars/trucks. you might want to pick up about 10 qts. of tranny fluid so you can do a flush/refill while your at it. ~Josh~

the tire pressure thingy on the door jamb is crap, dont rely on it for anything. the tires should have a max tire pressure (when cold, meaning not driven on yet) inflate to that pressure, a lot of tires have different pressure levels. ~Josh~

and on theother end of the spectrum.....i havent ever had an overheating problem with my EJ conversion, but keep in mind suberdave has a turbo under his hood, i dont. if going EJ motor with turbo, use EJ radiator, if using EJ motor w/o turbo, you CAN use the EA radiator, but you might want to use two fans instead of just one. ~Josh~

ebay my friend. there are twin turbo or single turbo AT's and MT's, package deal. but they seem to be slowly raising in price. ~Josh~

well since its an 85 it has to be carbed so i would start by timing it correctly. if your looking at the engine w/ hood open, the front left plug wire is the number 1 cylinder, hook your timing light to that. loosen the two bolts that hold the disty from moving. if youve been around carb'd vehicles before fogive me..... set timing to 8 degrees BTDC, if its already at 8 degrees, and youre feeling cocky.....(use only premium for this) set timing to 10-11 degrees BTDC. that will give you some power, but not much. if you have emissions in your area im sorry. its a 22 year old car so i think they might go easy on you, maybe not though. if you really want more power, motor swap......hear that all to often. a more pracitcal temporary solution is a larger exhaust. from the header/Y-pipe, go 2'' straight back to the muffler( get a good flowing muffler), this will gain you about 5-7 hp. any decent exhaust shop should eb able to fab up an exhaust like that for ~$200-$250. but before that i would get new fuel, air filters and an oil change with a good oil. pump up the tire pressure about 5 psi over normal to give you less rolling resistance, if you notice your tires getting bald in the middle of the tread turn pressure back down. other than that....search my friend. ~Josh~

or look on nasioc.com, in the classifieds. if not you can go to 1stsubaruparts.com or the other subie websites.......but JY is best bet for cheaper parts, only problem is finding one that matches your car's color. ~Josh~

86' GL wagon, 5-lug conversion (185/70/R14) with EJ22. ~22-24 city/highway mix....i think my o2 sensor is bad though.....went from 25 mixed driving to 22. with the old EA82 under the hood i got about 25-28 MPG with mixed driving...but then of course it took about 1.5 miles to get up to 75 from 65. ~Josh~

awesome brad, are you going to be living in the portland area still. id like to give ya a hand with wrenching that beast of a motor under the hood. does this mean that you will be going with a legacy tranny? ~Josh~

the hp would suck, but the low end torque would scream burnouts and towing. ~Josh~

imagine your engine block. on the block were the head and block meet, there is a small circle machined into the mating surface. in this groove you put either a copper or steel ring that sticks above the mating surface only slightly, like a mm or 2, or whatever it is, when you put your cooper HG on the block and torque the head down onto it, the raised O-ring smashes the copper HG tight to the head, in a sense it super compresses it around the cylinder. maybe WJM should tell us all for the 30th time how he did it.... ~Josh~

the R160 is the same rear diff used in the WRX and ALL legacys/imprezas, only difference is the gear ratios, so if you can have a modded WRX with 400hp with stock drivetrain handle it...i think the 80-90hp a N/A EA82 puts out with be okay.....now the tranny output gears on the other hand......will break. im going to try this in the summer when there is no chance ill need the 4WD for mud or snow. but i will have to be careful on the upshifts... ~Josh~

is it throwing any codes now? you might have fried the ignitor by arcing it to a screwdriver. ~Josh~

just buy the magazine, what is it like $7..........come on.......dont eat subway for lunch...pack your lunch and save your $7 and buy the mag. ~Josh~

i dont have any problems related to the EJ swap, the only problem i see in the future is the second gear synchro going out on me.....but its been acting up for the past 3-4 years.....doesnt matter what super-hightech-full-synthetic oil/gear lube i put in it, it still acts like it doesnt like me very much sometimes, only when its cold.......oh well....thats the price of power. edit: oh and i have at least 6k on my swap. ~Josh~

theres a sticky thread on nasioc that tells you how much offset goes with what width rim.......like take the WRX rims for example...its a 6.5'' rim and the offset is like 55....take a 7.0'' rim and your offset needs to be like 48-50 or something like that....get where im coming from. sure the rims and tires will "fit", but are they the right offset for our suspensions. if you go outside of these parameters you could seriously comprimise your car's handling in corners and how it drives. ~Josh~

i think that since the XT and XT6 are both EA-style cars that it will fit. the EJ22T shouldnt be as long as the ER27 so you might have some extra room. ~Josh~ edit: dont the XT6 and EA82 motor share the same crossmember? if not thenyou will have to make custom motor mounts. use the legacy tranny if you want, but i think that the 4eat in the XT6 can handle it, that is if you have the 4EAT.

is the tranny dual range? if not it might be a FT4WD tranny....does it have the putton on the shifter to put it in 4WD? ~Josh~

if i were to do it all over again, taking into account that 98% of my driving is on road. i would do what suberdave did. for $1000-$1100 shipped you can have the EJ20G wire harness, tranny, axles, ECU and motor w/ turbo/s. might as well convert to a 5-lug while you're at it, to have better brakes and correct sized tires for that motor/tranny combo. keep in mind that the single turbo is the only one that will fit the USDM cars. no tranny adapter crap to deal with. ~Josh~

pull up the carpet in your trunk/cargo ( if wagon) area, you should see some wires that go through the body, could be a couple though, like ABS sensor, or air bag stuff. jack up the back of the car and figure out what wires are for the fuel pump. it will be easy as the pump is mounted in the tank. next tap into the wires for the fuel pump and turn ignition to ON position, not start. if your wire tap is good and the test light comes on you have power.....if no fuel pump sounds then its dead. if no power search for relay or blown fuses. ~Josh~

what was the last year the loyale was made? and what was the first year the SVX was made? if they overlap then you can throw the EG33 in a loyale. but for parts availibility id go EJ22, since the 1990 legacy had one, and i know the loyale went until at least 1990, there you go. now just get some huge fender flares for it and lengthen the control arms by about 3-4'' and maybe a small mini-lift(like 1-2'') to get the camber back into normal range. daydreaming..... ~Josh~