TheSubaruJunkie

Yeah.... But a deal this sweet might be hard to pass up. And if I do get it, im going to need a rally bar for some rally lights -Brian

Ive been looking for another subaru lately. Not to replace the 84, but to use as my daily driver while i rebuild the 84. Ive been searching AutoTrader, Cars.com and even Yahoo and eBay but couldnt really find what I wanted. Then my friend suggested I look at Craigslist.com, so I did. And what did I find? http://sacramento.craigslist.org/car/26184280.html So I call the dude, and go and look at it. It drove great, but the body is alittle beat up. He had new tires put on and said he wanted to put new springs in the back to clear them. The downside is it has a failing clutch. I was able to drive it around the block, but didnt get it above 40. It had no problem climbing through 3 gears and acted as if there was absolutly no turbo lag. He also told me he's asking $1500 for it. He said he's planning on replacing the clutch and the suspension and then the price will rise. I was thinking of getting it from him while its cheap, and doing the work myself, but not sure what im getting myself into. The car is sweet though. Fully loaded, 5spd, AWD. Black with alittle body damage (dents & dings, scratches) and the hood is primered. I told him i'd come and take a look at it tomorrow afternoon when its light out. -Brian

I Found a 1992 Legacy Turbo. Its a 5spd AWD and it has a bad clutch. How difficult would it be to replace the cluch on these things? I'm used to smaller engines like the Subaru EA81 and the 8.5" clutches they use. How much larger are these clutches? and how much harder is it to replace them? Would it be easier to drop the transmission or lift the engine? -Brian

I'd be amazed if Ken was able to bash his tank into a rock or something, his tank has to be like 3 or 4' from the ground. -Brian

I would have to dissagree on the kerosene. It will eat away at the internal gaskets quickly and could cause more damage than good. I would suggest Kerosene on a siezed engine, or sticky valves, but for noisy valves just try a quart of MMO. If it doesnt work, then put in a thicker oil like 20w50 (probably better to run thicker oil in FL anyhow since its hot there). If that doesnt work, then shrug it off and worry about something more important like head gaskets, timing belts and CV's. Ticking is normal for any subaru... no matter what year it is. Its something we all get used to. -Brian

Looks real good. -Brian

that would look cool, and mount a strobe light inside behind the radiator and paint your timing belt with glo-in-the-dark paint -Brian

I didnt have a chance to read everybody's reply's but here are some things I had problems with durring my lift install. #1: See image below: I didnt know I had to beat that part of the fender in, and the car wouldnt steer right. It made a horrible popping noise when the strut would hit it. Wasnt hard to bend, and wont be the 1st body structure you'll need to modify. #2: Test fit everything! And dont tighten all the bolts at 1st, make sure everything is straight then tighten the bolts. #3: Pay attention to how your steering wheel is. When you remove the steering linkage, its not hard for the steering wheel to move. When I did my lift, i ended up driving my car for 6 months with the steering wheel upside down. #4: PK Davis has everything coated. Which is great, makes it stronger, more durable, and rust proof. But it does add a degree of thickness to things. Keep that in mind if a bolt becomes stubborn, or when the steering extension doesnt want to attatch to the steering gearbox. #5: Take your time. Might want to do the front 1st then the rear. If you run into any problems come to the board -Brian

I tapped into the blue wire, +, and ran it to a switch. I have the switch mounted in my center console, and it has a light on it so i shouldnt forget to turn it off. I timed the car, with the switch off, the car ran for 60 seconds. With it on, it ran for over 3 minutes, and then took a test drive around the block. came home, parked it, shut off the switch and it ran for another 60seconds before dying. -Brian

Yeah, thats always something to think about. My main goal is getting to and from work for right now. Im planning on getting another sube to use as my daily driver. ive noticed the wiring that leads to the pump is blue and black. I assume the black wire is ground, but i thought i read somewhere that Subaru used Blue to represent Earth, and using blue wires as their ground. Does anyone know for sure which one is the + ?? -Brian

My Fuel pump on the 84 Wagon is failing. I just replaced it about a month or so ago. The car used to die spurraticly while driving. I replaced the pump and it solved the problem. Now its doing it again. I re-wired the pump, removing the stock plug, and just using attatching the wires to eachother. I made sure this time there was nothing for the wires to rub on, and checked for damage. I even followed the wiring up through the rear bench and made sure everything was good. The pump started to operate again, but as soon as i took it on its test drive, it died again. Didn't even make it 2 blocks. This time, i just checked the wiring from inside the cab, by gaining access to the pump through the hole under the bench where the wiring runs. I could tell the pump was not working. I was able to get my car to run off of carb cleaner, and then somehow again the pump started to pump. I was able to get the car home, where it sits now. Im thinking of just hard wiring a switch to my switchboard inside the car, and control the fuel pump that way. -Brian

Hows that brushguard comming along Sean? Tony, mark me down for a re-enforced diff hanger and skid plate. Not sure when my next trip up will be, but i think thats all i need now -Brian

Zap, i had the same problem. But when i wired mine, as soon as i flipped the switch smoke started to billow (no pour, BILLOW) out of the center console, where my switches are located. A buddy of mine gave me this diagram: -Brian

I took all the power window stuff out of a 2dr EA81 Coupe at a junkyard and sent it to Mick. I had the idea of swapping over power windows in my old brat. All you should need is the door hardware. You dont need the glass, but you will need to salvage the door panels. The passenger side door doesnt have a switch, you have to use the switchboard in the center console. And since there are only 2 doors, there is only use for 2 switches. But the board comes with for (and a 5th that locks them all). The relays for it all are located under the drivers side seat. Ive never seen a EA81 with power locks though, so i couldnt help you there. -Brian

Is this place like olympia was? Where we had to drive 20min to the nearest mom & pop corner store for the nearest bite to eat? Seems like everything is getting summed up. I might have to get an RC car to join the fun, would probably be alot less messy than the RallyX we had at WCSS3. I assume there are trails nearby? Off-Road fun could include things like Hill Climb comp's, mud drags etc. If there is a nice large mud pit, we could have Tug-o-war competitions in the mud pit -Brian

I also gotta give a shout out to TWB as well. I went and met GD at Tony's where i picked up my front Bumper/Brushguard: http://usmb.net/albums/album175/newguard_008.jpg And here's a pic of me and my Sube, this is a pic GD took. http://usmb.net/albums/albun80/muhsoob.jpg TWB also made the roof rack for my car. The best part is that I got to help design the item's. Used PhotoShop to draw up some idea's, and Tony was eager to make it. -Brian

Its not neccessary to remove the strut mount, or the tie-rod end from the steering knuckle. Also, its easier to remove the ball joint from the steering knuckle, that way you dont risk damaging the boot on your balljoint, and you dont need a picklefork. -Brian

Tips: The Castle nut is 36mm, and a nice 36mm Impact socket will go a long way if you have Subaru's. Its best to break the nut loose while the car is still on the ground. You'll need to remove the brake pads, caliper and rotor to get the CV off, so make sure you have plenty of space to place parts. The Caliper doesnt need to be removed from the braket or brakelines, and you can use something like chickenwire to hold it up and out of the way. Also, its easier to remove the lower ball joint from the steering knuckle, rather than removing the joint end from the lower control arm. After the lower ball joint is disconnected, you can pull the strut outward, and use that to pull the CV from the tranny. The pin in the tranny is 3/16" and might be easier to remove from up top of the vehicle, through the hood. I usually use a socket on the end of a few extensions, then slide the punch into the socket. Makes for a nice 30" long punch After the pin is out, try to remove the CV from the transmission, then after the rotor and brakes are out of the way, tap the CV through the steering hub to remove it. Installation is pretty much the same, but in reverse. -Brian p.s. When your done and tightening the 36mm bolt, dont be affraid to use a breaker bar and some leg-power to get it torqued down.

They should be. -Brian

Nor Cal!! w00t. Im in sacramento. -Brian

Your buddy cant postpone until Tuesday? or show up early on Sunday? -Brian

HAHAHAHAHAHA Yeah... i guess your right -Brian

Mondays are the worse days for me. Its almost impossible to get a monday off without using vacation. Sunday's are good though. Is this your friend from Chico? I would like to finally get to meet him. Im down for about anything... Im sure i can follow, and pull you guys out of anything. -Brian

Lets give it a week or so. My car has no 4WD, i broke a front CV and now its RWD. Also, got some smog issues to take care of as well. -Brian

Ok, i have a tow strap.... it can pull subarus too -Brian