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lmdew

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Everything posted by lmdew

  1. Never had this problem, make sure the belts are in the correct groves, it's easy to move them over a notch. Is the tensioner on correctly? It should all bolt up without a problem. I've done 6 of theses and never had this problem. Make sure you are using the same year AC Bracket and Tensioner as they are different across some years.
  2. Check the Rear Diff for lube, does it change when you are in a turn one way or the other, if so its most likely a wheel bearing.
  3. Mark if you want to try the coolant temp sensor I have the one that came off the same engine as the injectors. Larry
  4. Anyone up for a Spring Break Road Trip. Looking for someone to drive a 98 OBS to CO for me. Middle of March to the second week of April would be the time frame for the trip. 5 speed, must have insurance and a good reference or two.
  5. Just installed a 2.5 for another fellow in town. I can help or do it for you. I'm out of town Sat but will be back. PM with a phone contact. Larry
  6. Thanks for the input. It might turn out to be a 2 way swap, The 95 2.2 auto engine going into a 99 Outback with a bad motor The 97 Impreza drive train going into the 95 Legacy I just have to see how everything is when I get the cars.
  7. I've done this on several 90-94 with OBDI but never on a OBDII car. Anyone? Looking at taking a 98 Impreza drive line and putting it into a 95 Legacy. Thanks
  8. Pics to Lmdew@hotmail.com I'll take a look and make you an offer. Thanks, Larry
  9. The salvage title is the kicker. Was the body work done by a shop? Is the body like new now or just better. The low miles are good, the condition of the car will determine the value. If the body work was not done by a shop, but the car is in otherwise good condition, 1500-3000 would be a reasonable range. If the Body work is like new as well as the rest of the car you may get up to 4000. Take $2000 off the KBB for the salvage title. You have to figure out what it is worth to you, and what the market is in your area. Post it on the board when you know what you want for it.
  10. Do you have the key on? There is a shift lock that needs to be powered. You can manually release it, there is a hole in the front Left corner that you can insert a 1/4" drive into and press down. Look in the owners manual for the procedure.
  11. Thanks, I have a SOHC long block available and a 99 OB that I'm getting, which I believe has the DOCH so I was thinking about what parts I'd need to make it work and how much would swap from one to the other. AC Compressor PS Pump Intake :<( Water Pipe Throttle body...
  12. Do all the parts from one swap onto the other? Any year restrictions? Thanks, Larry
  13. The bearings are sealed, you can clean the dust seal and put a little grease on it as well as the axle splines.
  14. Yes, you have to lift the engine. If you pull the exhaust down and remove the engine mount bolts you can jack up the engine from below and then put blocks under the engine mount bolt to hold it up. I'd also remove the rear upper dog bone link. RTV is the seal for the pan, make sure the surfaces are clean and give it 24 hours to cure.
  15. Go with CCR if you are going to put in that much money! Then you have a new engine not just new heads
  16. 1/8" would be a little much, but they do bend slightly. You may have over tightened the bolts. You can pick up the metal one off a early 90's 2.2 and replace the plastic.
  17. Sounds like it could be the coupling. Is the rack bleed (turn it lock to lock as the pump is running. Did the binding go away with the front end off the ground? Doing this will unload the rack, if the binding is still present I'd say it was the coupling.
  18. Happy Holidays. If someone can email a report on: VIN: 4S3BK6359S6359795 That would be appreciated. Lmdew@hotmail.com
  19. The tooth idler looks like it is losing grease. This is the idler that fails the most. Did you check it?
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