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lmdew

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Everything posted by lmdew

  1. It's a unit. Rust has it locked in. Soak it with PB blaster or something like it. I've had good luck putting a pipe wrench on the ball joint and spinning it inside the knuckle to break down the rust. Step is the gas tourch to heat the knuckle up.
  2. He went to the You Pull and got the 2nd pulley sensor and installed it. So far so good. Nice!
  3. Transmission shop pulled P2760 they said indicated 2nd pulley sensor. Of course it was driving fine while there. More research I think. Good info. I tried to upload the file but it was to large. Here's the link: https://atracom.blob.core.windows.net/webinars/import/subaru_lineartronic_cvt_introduction.pdf
  4. Swap the bulbs side to side and see if the fault follows the bulb. You will also get a chance to inspect the bulbs and connectors.
  5. Looks like the Damper separated and walked back into the cover. I'd pull it apart and check the components. If it's just the crank damper you can inspect the shaft and key and replace it. If the Timing belt is close to due you may as well do it and all the idler pulleys.
  6. He has it into a good Trans Shop. GD if it's just the TC lockup solenoid can you change just it instead of the complete valve body? Thanks, Larry
  7. Auto Trans is a heavy BEAR! You know about ensuring the TC is fully seated. Good Luck, it's a job for sure.
  8. 105K initially and then I usually go every 80K after that. Cheap insurance. Make sure the pulleys are also changed. The cogged one usually goes first!
  9. Duct tape will not last. Yes, coolant bypass hose. It pretty easy any 90 degree hose bend will work. In total it's about 4" long. Sorry I don't have the Dia. I'm in PDX so out of the garage. Pull it and take it to Subaru or an auto parts store. They will be able to match it.
  10. Thanks. I recommended Jim at Cascade Subaru. Great one man shop in Cascade CO.
  11. GD can the TC lockup solenoids be tested? Can I do it or does it need to be a good transmission shop? Thanks, Larry
  12. Thanks. Napa brake parts. Not sure on the history. Looked fine underneath. Passenger side Brake backing plate is torn across the bottom. Still trying to figure out how something shot up in there going down the freeway. Tire and rim are fine. ABS no visible damage.
  13. A friends Legacy sedan broke a rear brake rotor a few weeks ago. I 4" section of the rotor broke off and jammed up the drive line. He had the brakes replaced and it drove fine for a few weeks. Yesterday he got the P0700 code. He cleared it and it has not come back. I suggested a full inspection of the driveline to make sure it's OK. Brake rotor breaking is very strange. Did that cause the Transmission Control CEL?
  14. Yes the bracket that bolts to the engine and the tensioner are a matched set. You can swap them out as long as you have both. I have spares of both types if you need them.
  15. Yes there is a black single pin connector under the drivers side kick panel. You have to connect the pins and then turn the ignition switch on, but don't start the car. Count the CEL light flashes. Lots of videos out on youtube, here's one. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3y55wdRsa3Q Larry
  16. GD have you seen benefits of using Amsoil coolant? Which do you use, Passenger Car and Light Truck or Heavy-Duty Antifreeze & Coolant PRODUCT CODE: ANTHD1G-EA Thanks,
  17. My 2000 Impreza has the same issue here in CO when the temps reach 95+ F. Temp starts to climb if the AC is on and I'm going up hill in the mountains - heavy load. If I turn off the AC till the load is reduced, the temp will come back down. I have a aluminum aftermarket radiator in it. About 210K miles on the Impreza, Auto trans. The radiator does have the trans cooler built in. I had to adapt older Subaru fans to the radiator as the stock 2000 did not fit. Works well 99% of the year, so I have not pulled the thermostat or water pump.
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