lmdew

If you can use the engine and scrap the rest that is the best bet. Of course as soon as you scrap it you will find something you could have used. Parts for the 95-99 Subaru cars are not worth much anymore. With shipping it's just not worth it.

So it goes sometimes. You caught it! Sweet.

Vise Grips and a BFH to break it loose. I have spares if you need one. Just pay shipping from CO 80919

Go to your local you pull and pay and grab a newer set of KYB's off a Forester, complete struts and springs for about 45 each. I watch for them all the time when I'm going through the yards and pull them when I see a good set, even if I don't need them right away.

Yep, there are minor differences but nothing you can't adjust for.

Do you feel it in the driver's seat bottom when you first brake? If so it's the rear brake rotors. I've had a couple Subaru's do this. Hard to track down unless you know about it. s do this.

I always check the car for Oil service sticker or paperwork. I've powered them up with a 9v battery but it been so long ago I couldn't tell you what connector pins you need to go to. Do you have the same car? Could swap the dash into your car. Other than that you will need the factory wiring manual to figure out + and - circuit.

To late now, but for future installs you can buy an adapter harness so the stock plug remains for others down the road. Load (Radio) Power -12 VDC constant-memory functions, switched to power the unit and ground. 3 elements necessary in any circuit. I'm sure you know that already but added it for others.

Yes, it runs up the Drivers side of the rear body side of the hatch, then towards the flex hose you see. Best thing you can do is get it into a warm space before you pull the plastic. If the interior is up above 70F and you give the interior plastic time to warm up it will be less likely to break off the clip tabs. If you have access to a self serve parts yard go pull the panels there first so you know how it all comes apart. Then there is the question is it worth it? You could unplug the rear washer pump connector and disable it and never worry about the leak.

Great, hope it last through the WI Winter at least.

Have you looked at the shift input shaft while someone is shifting in the car? Might have disconnected or is stuck against something since you were just in there.

1" black hose going to the IAC is most likely disconnected from the MAF.

I think I have an auto shifter and cable in CO. I'm not sure what year it is but I don't think there is much difference in the 90's year range.

Did you burp it well? Check the radiator fluid level with the car cold. Is it full?

The original radiator was leaking at the plastic to aluminum seam on the top. I got a nice all aluminum radiator from Radiator Express $180. The stock 2006 fans did not fit but I had a spare set from an 2000 Impreza that bolted right up. They are a little wider so they are very close to the AC Belt adjustment pulley bracket. They also need a little jumper from the 2006 Forester wiring harness to the Impreza Fans. Here's a link to the radiator: https://www.radiatorexpress.com/product/all/subaru/2006/forester/x/25l-h4/222258/1432593 Very nice. Got it all back together and there is a whine from the front of the engine, AC Condenser, ALT or Power Steering pump were all possibilities. A little more checking and I see the PS pump fluid is full of bubbles. A noise check using my long screw driver to the above listed parts confirmed it was the PS Pump. Well it was fine before the radiator change so I figured it was just sucking air in through the hose. Replacing the spring type clamp with an old style heater hose clamp at the PS pump to reservoir fixed the problem. A day later all the air was out of the fluid and the pump was back to normal.

www.car-part.com or the nasioc web site will be your best bets.

Is the Check Engine Light on? If so have the code/s read and let us know what they are. Auto or Standard trans?

I'd clean it well and see if you can pin point the leak.

1+ on GD figures. I've see 10 or more tooth idler bearing fail, taking out the T Belt.

For fun and to ensure folks had a solid Subaru I use to do many 2.5 DOHC to 2.2 swaps. Do all the maintenance needed to ensure it was a good solid Subaru ready for the new owner. Back in the 99-2004 range I'd go up to $1000 for a solid Outback that needed an engine swap. Used 2.2 $400, T-Belt and Gaskets $200, misc $400 and then all my labor. I could sell them for $2200 to $2500 and keep the beer frig full. Flash forward to 2016, I would not pay over $400 for a Subaru in need of engine or trans. The parts were a little harder to find in the yards and folks did not want to pay over $1500 for a 98-99 Outback that would last them another 10 years. I still love working on Subaru's but have stopped the Subaru Hobby for the most part. It's to hard to recycle good Subaru parts so my garage is still too full. Watch your local Craigslist, call a couple of owners and ask them to let you know when they sell their Subaru. Local demand is what will drive price.

Find a good local Subaru Mechanic and develop a relationship with the Shop. In the long run it will be a great investment.

The local demand and norm for used Subaru prices will determine the value. Here in CO a car with rust is a big issue and no one wants them. $500 for a 2001 with a bad trans is more than I'd pay, but hey it's your Mom. I'd rather change 3 engines than an auto trans as they are very heavy and a beast to get into the car if you are working on the ground. I"ve done several but none were fun. Who did the HG? Was it a quality job? I'd say $1800 would be on the top end of the value, but again the local market and the quality of the work will determine what people will be willing to pay.

If you heard the old pump run and it was a Subaru pump, if you put in an aftermarket pump, I'd put the original Subaru pump back in when you fix the cap. A little WD-40 on the fuel hoses on the pump plate will make them easier to get them on and off.

Both options will work, just an easy fix taking the boards in. Some yards pull all of the jacks so you will not find them. Driving it out is an option but not easy.

Did you plug in the coolant temp sensor on the cross over water pipe?