lmdew

I have a good set, that I was going to send to the recycle center. I just pulled them out of the attic the other day. Good basket and clutches. Your's for the shipping and $10 for my time boxing them. PM me with your email and I can send you some pictures.

I have some spare fans if you need one. I'm in CO 80919

Reseal the breather plate on the back of the block. You should have the aluminum one already.

www.car-part.com Used. If you have a You Pull and Pay do it yourself.

Get a used lower mileage 2.2, put all your new timing components on it and for less than $400 you'll be up and going.

Check out LoadPro and load the circuit when checking voltage. You may be reading 13vdc - Battery voltage with no load but if you have poor contacts or green stuff in the wiring it will not carry the load.

Amsoil made a significant improvement in my 2000 Impreza Trans with high mileage. Great ATF.

The filters seals up the air box pretty good. I have replaced the newer style double airbox with the older 90-95 intake tube. It works well on the 2.2 swaps.

I've had several Impreza with the clock up in the instrument cluster. When the clock goes out is there a repair. I've searched but did not find a repair on the USMB or Web. Lot's of info on the Forester and center in dash clocks. Thanks, Larry

I"d check for voltage with a miltimeter at the Fusebox in the engine compartment, under the drivers side dash and at the starter. If you have battery voltage at all those locations, with the meter on the starter have someone turn the key to start, does the voltage drop?

Do you have an aftermarket Security or remote start unit on it? Have you checked for voltage at the fuse boxes? What caused the battery and cable change to start with?

Right on the passenger side fuel rail on the back. You have a new one on the way. There is about a 2" fuel line that connects it to the fuel tubing. If your fuel line is in bad shape, replace it.

Parts shipped.

No other leaks. GD had noted he had changed several for fuel smell. Thanks GD and USMB!

If the pan is dented up, fix that first. Drain the fluid, drop the pan and straighten it back out. The external filter kits were on some Subaru's. You'll find the filter up on the Driver's side of the engine compartment. The screen in the trans is just that, it's just a screen. No need to change it. Grab 3 or 4 gallons of DEX III, Walmart is fine. Drain, Fill, and pull the upper trans coolant line. Run a temp line into a gallon jug. Start the engine, let the trans pump out about 3/4 a gallon. Turn it off, fill the trans, repeat until the fluid is coming out clean.

I have plenty of good used Red Injectors. How's $40 shipped. If you want the rails as well, I can ship them that way. Have you back on the road in no time.

They installed with ease and seem to be working well. No more fuel smell. BECK/ARNLEY 1580893 Time will tell.

Also check the Rear Diff. If one of the axle stub shafts popped out a bit, all of the power is going no where. I've had it happen more than once. The hardest part of the clutch pack is getting all of the old gasket material off the tail shaft flange. The C-Duty wire is very short as well. Don't pull off the connector.

Are you putting in Fluid in on the Drivers side behind the Starter? The dipstick/fill tube is kind of hidden. If you fill the passenger side towards the front of the Trans, you filled the FWD Diff with trans fluid. Drain it and refill with gear lube. You are not the first to make this mistake.

As long as the link is there it doesn't make much difference what it is. I'm sure the newer styles would work. Same length side to side and strong.

95 2.2 swap. Cheaper and will last a lifetime.

Hit a you pull and pay and grab the complete unit. Have to drop the headliner. www.car-part.com

So you replaced the motor and left the wiper arms on the shaft. The easy way, I'd remove the wiper arms. 14mm nut. Then turn on the wiper motor and watch the arm shaft. It should be normal. Turn off the wipers and then shut down the car. The arms can be installed in the park positon.

The panels do swap for the most part. There are some year to year differences on the plugs on the rear of the gauge cluster. I've changed lots of panels in the 95-2002 range sometimes because a speedometer failed or the clock was not working... If you have a different panel that is not an indication someone did something wrong.

Pull your car about 4 feet away from f flat wall and straight ahead. Turn on the lights and start cranking the two adjusters. You will see the beam move. As you move the left to right adjuster to move the light beam in or out it will also adjust the vertical some due to the design. Inner lower adjuster is for in and out. Top adjuster is for up and down. As you move one it does affect the other some.