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Everything posted by lmdew
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Just go to a yard and get a complete mirror. You will have to remove the inner door panel as well to get to the connector. www.car-part.com is a good search tool for full service yards. If you have a self serve yard where you can take tools in and remove the mirror yourself that is the way to go.
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Basically, turn the cams to where the valves are closed, no pressure on the cam gear and then you can turn the crank until the index mark on the back tooth of the crank gear lines up with the tick mark under the crank sensor. When you have the crank set, line up the cams. When you compress the belt tensioner do it slowly and so it's in the same position as installed - vertical. Turn everything over by hand several times to check for interference. If it's good, start her up. Then put a dollar bill up to the tail pipe, if it gets sucked back to the pipe, you have a bent valve.
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You rebuilt the engine and now you have higher compression - more breaking effect. I doubt it's the clutch if everything else about the clutch is OK. If the pressure plate was tight up against the flywheel and the centering tool slid in an out with ease it should be fine. I'd look at your drive shaft u-joints and then the rest of the drive line. Using the engine as a brake is not the best thing for it anyway, IMHO That's what brakes are for.
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Get the code out of the computer. Clean the oil and then watch where it's coming from - Valve Cover Gaskets is easy There is also a rear cam cover that has an o-ring and is easy to change.
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There is a snap ring on the end of the axle shaft that goes into the Rear Diff. It has to get popped in. If the lateral links are removed, a good jolt on the rear brake will pop the snap ring in. If the links are hooked up, put a wood block up against the inner CV Joint boot and give it a good hit. I don't like this option as you can damage the boot.
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Buy me a few XXX and put me up for a week and I'll fly down with some. Larry
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- 2000 subaru
- legacy
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(and 5 more)
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