Steptoe

Difference between EA81 and EA82 is a 2 mm difference in the step machined into the flywheel, so a corresponding difference must be in the pressure plate. An EA82 friction plate won't fit an EA81 4 sp 4WD, so I am stumped Must've why it was sold Clutch fork black or blue? Look ok? Not cracked or holed? Might crack after this

225mm kit isn't it? An EA82 pressure plate will fit and work a 225 mm EA81 flywheel and work, just not very well - I have done so I know but did not get hard pedal

Better give us the part number of the clutch kit for knowledgables to compare You get quicker at pulling the clutch out don't you? Compared each part old with new? The size hole where all fingers meet same? And where TOB contacts fingers? Same spot close to end of fingers?

Find as many different10 mm spanners for the heat shield bolts. I used an old wire coat hanger to make a tool to hole M6 bolt with a U shape slightly bent in at the top of the U to hold bolt in until I pull sharply to release, in order to hold bolt six inches up, in the side of the heat shield while long ratchet ring does it up. I made up firewall and chassis mounted heat shields in the end to free up my time

Would be nice eh? I am thinking a soft touch push button in the dash control panel area, timer relay would be ideal for the roof mounted cabin light in the Brumby Anyone done one with some fancy circuitry to to time it off somehow? I already have EA82 map lights installed and wired up through ACC so it's led won't drain battery coz I can't accidentally leave them on

If the FPR diaphragm has a small hole it can suck fuel from the fuel side to the vacuum side and into inlet air stream

Bennie dislikes EA82 , but I agree with him on getting the injectors checked, or at least put a few strongish doses of fuel system cleaner through first, pull (easier said than done unfortunately) injectors and leave them to soak in a bath of injector cleaner/ fuel cleaner over night or 24 hours to see if you get any better reading. Dribbly injectors or not a perfect spray can lead to this before you feel any drive issues. Wonder if you disconnected sensor for emissions test? The O2 sensor is what controls the fuel trim , but not during acceleration. Someone had a positive response tip in here to almost give the beast a hiding just before testing to ensure cat is up to temperature. Had to reset things on my device, meanwhile this reply sat stuck in the reply box 24 hrs so may read like a bit out of sequence here. Your O2 gauge is reading off the same O2 sensor? It is telling us it is running rich so I would not suspect it is the sensor but is the ecu getting this signal - at least to the pins? If ecu does not see O2 sensor it has failsafe default to go rich

Note to self : next purchase, test all lights in the dark Slapped things yet? I have sometimes found just disconnect and reconnect switches and plugs with switch in on position frightens some hibernated switches or circuits back into life - a bit like the trusty slap if a light assembly. Even a spray of electrical contact cleaner has resolved weird issues. Is the 87s dimmer still a rolling switch?

As long as the auto box is not the 4 speed E4AT that some late turbos got, they had different gearbox mounts. Gave mine away to someone so no pics

And, too right on the one bolt style clamp. I have never pulled them out with my driving but have bought cars with this trick already done

If I chucked my first and second GLA sets out, I don't deserve another set ! Besides, I don't think EA82 fit EA81, which is likely why they went. From your photo I can see a few U bolt design issues coming up....forewarned is 4armed

Our vehicle inspectors are not keen on your suggested method carfreak. I have a few things to guide me for placement position, which should help me get U bolt dimensions , got my 8 mm rod today so should be no stopping me. Actually not using the intended vehicle for the fit up so need it to be removeable. Will add pics when completed. Plan is to make legs longer to be cut to even length when finished. It is tricky cutting their threads on finished product so need to bend to an L shape, do a thread each end, bend to U shape without stuffing threads. Might need to make a bending jig

My EA82 auto was 3.45:1 front diff while 3.7 in the bum - work that one out ! Hope you also got the EA81 tailshaft

The clutch I run behind EA82T are standard EA82 and do just fine. The EA82T has about the same torque rating as EJ22. If it fits the job, it should cope

It is not gonna rev at that speed unless the throttle is getting open or a bitch of an air leak. Sticking throttle mech, and check cable condition, floor mats , PCV and booster hose and function

My first post on this vanished.... I have a shortened rear bar from my EA82 GLA that had plates welded to rear arms. I need to make up U bolts and plates to fit this bar in the back of my EA81 1989 Brumby Anyone done this? Any tips?

The most basic, cheapest and easiest service item has been mentioned - the radiator cap. It not only meant to hold the wet stuff in, it holds in the pressure that builds up. Increasing the pressure increases the wet stuffs boiling temp If this ten dollar part has failed on you it will cause your problems described You could possibly drive one of these EA81 for years and miles from new without a gauge and have no problems. Bit riskier trying at this age

Might have to export a few of mine in used condition if I can find them

Ok My donor GF8, 1999 wagon and it's sedan sister have wheelbase of 2520 The foz of same year is wheelbase of 2525 Liberty sedan 2630 Outback 2650

Wonder if Forester tailshafts same or different to Imps And Libacys?

Well Ricky, your local may not have seen abused EA82T ! I still have a short motors to pull down, bought it 12 years ago as complete, but evidence work had been done to it. Quiet as a sewing machine, strongest pulling EA82T I have had. No miss, no shudder at all anywhere But found 60 psi in one pot, 120 in the rest. Seems someone did head thinking burnt valve. Valves sealed well, just rings allowed boost pressure to turn into enough blow by up steep inclines, to blow engine oil up the rear vent baffle and into the PCV system, which I bypassed to a catch can. 750 ml was not big enough!

Wish I knew this a few years ago, friends were working in Malta ....

Repair components for PS pump may still be available from dealer. Did mine with dealer supplied bits in 2007

I was going to suggest simplest, easiest, cheapest first ...oil filter may be loose or have two seal rings because old one stuck to housing, not seen when new filter went on. Not done it but seen it. Oil light sender units love to leak. A new one won't hurt, buy two just in case - they should be a service replace item every 100,000 units. Photos? Oh and these babies have an O ring and oil seal in and behind a removable 'seal carrier' front camshaft bearing support. The oil pump has a Mickey mouse seal between pump body and block and a shaft oil seal As well as front crank seal

Well, an update First in place measures looked like 50-52 mm needed to be cut out of the 99 Impreza manual tailshaft. Leveled up the gearbox, propped up at centre bearing within 6 mm off a likely floor mount support and the cut looked closer to 35 to 40 mm. So using measure twice cut once ( thankyou Mr Harrison , woodwork 1980) I cut it at 35, cleaned up the end plug, uni and whacked it back in - bit like a press fit no one ever mentions! so hard a whack it loosened up the stuff joint! That cut now looks like it should have been just 20 mm if the tailshaft or 15 for tight fit !