TomRhere
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Everything posted by TomRhere
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I don't think the strainer can be replaced. Could be wrong on that though. Never tried to do so. You can try cleaning it by blowing some air back thru the line that goes from tank to pump. Remove gas cap before doing so. Quick/short blasts of air is recommended.
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The ones in the link are straight shank lugs, Not what you need.
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Wish I could remember what vehicle I have seen them on, but there is/are lug nuts available like what that last picture shows. Wider taper area, with what looks like a washer on the rim end of the nut. There are lug nuts that are straight-shanked and need a flat-washer, so don't mistake those for what you need, as they fit rims with a "straight drilled" lug hole, no taper.. That is what I was thinking you needed until I went back and looked at the pics again. I could make out the taper in the rim. Pic with lug nut sitting in rim is what threw me off. You need lug nuts with wider seat.
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Got to agree with Emily on this one. Bearings are toast now. If, it had been addressed soon after the headgasket went, you may have been good to go. But sitting around with the "Milkshake Oil" in it hasn't done the bearings any good. And cracks between the valves isn't a problem unless they go deep. Just recently tore down an ER27, so if you need pieces/parts, I have "Some" good items available. Let me know what you need and I'll check. Some parts are basically scrap, so......
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Another check to do is drop the trim panel under the steering column and look at the Pink colored connector. That is for the Ignition switch. The White wire is the main Battery feed. It has been cause of a few headaches, as the terminals in the connector have weakened over the years and cause a bad connection due to heat.. If the connector itself, or the terminals for the White wire are discolored, it is either the problem, or the start of future problems. Also could be the contacts in the starter solenoid itself. They wear down over the many start cycles these vehicles have seen in their life.. Easy fix really. New contact kit can be bought, HELP Brand part number, 02349. Most Parts Stores have a HELP Rack, and can order in the above mentioned kit.
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Those appear to have a tapered seat area for the lug nuts, so yeah, 60* conical-seat, ( \ / ) lug nuts, not ball-seat, (curved). In other words, your old lug nuts should work for these rims.
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I don't know the wiring for your year, so can't help much. But do believe that the "White" wire should be on the "B" of the switch Generically speaking, most ignition switches wire the same. B = Battery+ I = Ignition A = Accessory S = Starter R = Resistor - Mostly used on vehicles that had points/condenser type ignition. It was another contact in the start position to feed full battery voltage to the coil. Once engine has started and key released back to run position, coil ran on 1/2 battery voltage thru a resistor of some type. That is why yours only stays running if you hold the key, as you are feeding the switch from the wrong contact, "R" instead of "B".
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I can see the pic. Shows an EA82 short block with crank key at roughly 4:30-5:00. Wrist pin access plugs removed, oil and water pump removed. If you haven't yet, put the pistons back in. Install flywheel, and align the T-belt marks, center one of the lll marks. Now you can install heads, cam carriers, T-belts and components. Crank sprocket for T-belts only install one way. The one closest to the engine is dished to clear the crank seal, other one has pin for crank pulley. Then what ever else you need to install to finish engine.
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'84 is the year that Subaru started to change over to hydraulic lifters. Manual trans had solid lifter engines. Auto trans had the hydraulic lifter engines. Don't recall any other differences right now. If engine you buy has a flex-plate for the auto trans, remove it. Pull clutch/flywheel from your old engine and bolt it on to the new one. Must use flywheel bolts from your engine, as the flex-plate bolts are to short.
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Really don't matter as to where one lives. Similar ordinances/regulations/laws what have you, all over the map. Honestly somewhat surprised one of your neighbors hasn't complained previously about all the cutting/welding/grinding you have been doing on all the vehicles at your place Tom. Been down that road a few times... Been talk for quite a few years now of Regulations being set to make it basically impossible, (read that as illegal), for anyone to work on a vehicle themselves. Noise, un-drivable vehicle, what have you on that. So much for classic car restorations, custom builds or the like. Have recently heard of renewed interest in making such a law, mostly from the Automakers themselves. Citing copyright and other such infringements, mostly for "Tuners and the like" there. This would be Nationwide here in the U.S. of A.. Got a "Move-it-or-Loose-it ticket" on one of the BRAT's, just for leaving it parked in the street and same spot, for more than 24 hours straight. REALLY!!!! I can't park a registered/insured/operational vehicle on the street for more than 24 hours and not risk loosing it? WTF!?!?!?!?!? Been waiting for them to say something about Christopher's truck, or the '88 Wagon, seeing as they both have been sitting in the driveway for awhile. Wagon is drivable, truck needs plates/insurance but is otherwise good to go. It do get irritating at times...
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Got the EA82 u-joints thru AutoZone. 2-0430DL is the part number. edited to add p/n
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Mother Nature hasn't all that helpful either in trying to do things outdoors.
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No idea on what plating would be best. Do know that the quality of the plating makes a big difference. The powers that be at work, switched to having Fastenal keep our fastener supply filled. Big difference in their stuff compared to what we were using. Much better plating on stuff now. Bought a few fasteners from them myself, and I'll get more as needed. A bit spendy but worth it to me. I had thoughts myself of using stainless fasteners until I did a Google search on it.
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EA81 u-joints are easy to replace. EA82 u-joints are a Royal Pain In The Arse to do........
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Unplug the connector for the headlight switch itself, and give it a good look. Do you see a discolored terminal? That could be the problem. Was on my '85 BRAT atleast.
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The driveshaft spins anytime the rear tires are rolling. Have had a few go bad on the BRAT's I've had. Easy replacement.
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Really not recommended to use Stainless fasteners in Aluminum. They are opposite ends of the chart. The further away, the greater the chance of reaction between them. We have enough issues using steel bolts as it is. Then add in the coolant liking to weep in around the intake/head bolts. Not a good thing there.
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I am as serious as a heart attack on sending Jeszek a care package.. Company I work for ships a lot of things to other Country's, so I can find out the details in doing so. Do know that UPS wanted like $270.00 to ship a package to Australia, where I could send same box thru USPS for $70.00. Getting parts to Jeszek, needs to happen. Regardless.
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Liking this... So maybe you will want that good Fog Light lens after all?
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Agreed.. "One Crazy Story"!! Hopefully, no damage done inside of the trans. Thinking that I would do my best to get some ATF to do a flush before putting new gear lube in. Even if it is just a couple quarts of used ATF, it would help. And I am with Mr_Loyale.. There has to be a way for those of us on this Board that want to do so, to send you a Care Package directly to your home. You have given so much to the Members on here with all of your write-ups, and other informative threads. We would like to return the favor. Tom
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You have to drop the Mustache Bar for the rear diff down to remove the tank. I remove the nuts where it attaches to the side mounts and let the rear diff swing down on the front mount. A floor jack under the diff let's you control how far it drops, and makes getting it back in place much easier. That fuel cell cleaned up nice. Thinking I would have done steel lines vs. all of the hose though.
