TomRhere

We all are here to "HELP" each other. Glad I could do so.

Okay, confusion on both ends it seems... With the dimmer switch in "Low Beam" position, outer lights should be lit. All lights should be lit in "High Beam" position Outer bulbs are 3-prong, ( l _ l ) with matching 3 prong connector, inner bulbs are 2-prong, ( l l ). Looking at the front harness as I type this; All 4 of the connectors for the bulbs are a 3-prong socket ( l _ l ), but the inner(high-beams) only use 2 of the wiring ports, ( l l ). Color code is as follows, looking at the connectors as they would go onto the bulbs; Red/Black l _ l Red/Blue for the High/Low bulb Red/White Red/White l l Red/Blue for the inner (High Beam) bulb. I have apparently cut one of the High/Low connections off this harness, otherwise I'd be willing to send it your way. Had issue on the 85 BRAT that TDodge now owns of now Low-beam lights, but could "Flash" the High-beams with the dimmer switch. Found burnt connection terminal in the dimmer switch harness connection under the dash. Don't recall wire coloring now, but the bad connection was clearly obvious when I dug into things. Haven't opened the covering on this harness yet, but will do so if you need it done. Just to see where the Factory splicing takes place. Do my best to get good pics with the P.O.S. camera I have.

I would buy a new High/Low bulb an atleast check to see if it works properly. No need to swap the bulbs completely, just un-plug the one that's installed now, plug in new bulb. The fact that your inner high beams works, tells me that the circuit is good, and something is amiss with the outer high beams. All four high beams are controlled by the same wire at the dimmer switch, with splices/taps for each individual bulb coming off from the harness out front. I have the lighting section of the harness here out of an '86 BRAT, I can check it to see where all of the splicing is. Kept the harness, as I had the thought of converting my '88 Wagon over to the quad-light set-up. Never did so.

Flasher for the Hazard Lights could be bad, or missing. Had the latter issue on a few vehicles.

Haven't seen any of the "Guru's" on here in a while. I believe, that the mode control unit and mode actuator are the complete push-button assembly on the dash. It's two units, screwed together. Had issue with my '88 where it wouldn't change modes unless I left the control unit loose in the dash. Found the vacuum part of the control to be broken in a few places. Swapped in another control, all is good. No ideas on why your blower fan doesn't work. Not real knowledgeable on EA82 systems.

Nice pipe/tube bending. I suggest you now replace the copper tubing with some steel tubing bent to match. Copper doesn't like vibrations all that well Really don't want to be spewing vital engine fluids all over many miles from home.

Have one here already mounted on EA82 intake. Boxed and ready to ship. Previous buyer backed out of deal. PM me, we'll discuss details.

Thanks for taking us along on the trip. Awesome scenery, especially the cliff/ocean shots.

Also. Don't use 4WD on dry pavement. Loose stuff only.. Snow, mud, sand. Heavy rain is a personal choice.

The debate over which is better for performance has been going on for a few decades with the 1/4-mile bunch. Not much of a definitive answer has been proven that I know of. There's still those what run solids regardless. Myself, I'd rather have hydro's, set 'em and forget 'em. Proper oil change intervals with a good quality oil, and you should have no issues other than oil pump being properly sealed also.

I have cut them out of cereal boxes in the past for a temporary fix. Not an easy task to do either.

Proper rear shoe adjustment also.

Before you order a new sending unit, check the wiring connectors for the unit on yours. I have had issues with those on a few EA81's Really not a "water-proof" type connection, so corrosion is going to happen.

Running an '92 SPFI ECU in my '88 SPFI Wagon.

Not finding the push-rods. May have sold them already and don't 'member dong so. I be Old, so I can do that........

Yeah, the BRAT in that link was sold, drove for awhile, rust and accident took it out of the picture, got parted and scrapped. Got an '82 here that I thought of following that build, but with my own ideas also. Difficulties of swapping that engine in, led me away from that plan.

Don't know Justy's either. Myself, I would check the entire run of the engine wiring harness to see if anything got pinched between things that got bolted on. Then, I would unhook the main feed to the alt and check that wire for continuity to ground, also check the connection for it on the alt itself.

As stated. You need to find cause of your low mileage issue. I have repeatedly hit 200 miles+ driven at the 1/2 tank mark, and usually drove between 340 & 360 miles a week before topping the tank back off. Best run on a tank of go-juice was 445+ miles.

Replied to your other thread. But yes it has been done by a few people on here in BRATs, and another in a FWD Hatch.

http://www.subarubrat.com/er27install.htm Some info there. Owner of that BRAT is still here on the Board. The BRAT however is gone.

Looks like the Anti-After-burn Valve, (AAV), judging by angle of that pic. The part is mounted on the DS strut tower, large hose runs to back of intake to a metal tube, then a short section of hose to the EGR valve. All of which can be removed. The AAV can cause issues itself. And the short section of hose at the EGR likes to crack causing one heck of a vacuum leak.

That tube you argued with is for the EGR feed. Routes some exhaust gases to the EGR valve, EGR valve then adds it to the intake stream. Supposedly, it helps with exhaust emissions.

No, you do not have to pull the heads. Do need to pull the valve covers off, but sounds like you've done that already. Do need to loosen the lash-adjusters on the rockers. That will let you remove the push-rods. Fairly certain I have a set of EA81 Solid Lifter push-rods. Give me until the weekend to check on that.

Here's a couple pics of some 195/65-15 24.98" tires on same Wagon. These are 8" across tread, no rubbing anywhere. Rear; Front;

Yep! And the ER27 XT6 6 cylinder engine will fit, just where the heck to put the radiator is an issue. Non-turbo EJ is the way to go for ease of fitment, wiring is another story in itself, but doable.