Legacy777

Also, the cast impeller design is a more efficient design IMO.

You may have moisture in the vacuum pump or in the actuator.

Bump. Can anyone help out? You may also want to try the meet & greet forum, and the regional forums on nasioc http://forums.nasioc.com/forums

There is no heater core bypass on the first gen legacies. Coolant is always flowing through the heater core.

What do you mean cause it to slip?

I don't know the specific offset of your forester rims, however if you remove the rim, it will be stamped on there. Other then that, I'd just look for a rim/tire combo that is the same as your forester. Other subie rims have the same bolt pattern and are swapable.

It shouldn't be noisy. Are your tires the same size, are they properly inflated. it almost sounds like torque-bind.

Using hemp to produce ethanol would fit under cellulose production, which is not perfected. Switchgrass is another plant that is being looked at in the cellulosic process to make ethanol. Josh

This is a hot issue for me. I do work in the oil & gas industry, but that's not what makes it an issue. The company I'm working for is participating in a research committee to look into mitigating the issues when transporting Ethanol in pipelines. Ethanol can cause stress corosion cracking in carbon steel.....but anyway. There's a lot of issues the general public doesn't know about. Ethanol is not market driven, it's political driven. Emissions-wise, it's not cleaner if you look at the entire chain of manufacturing; emissions from the farm equipment, trucks, processing plants, electrical plants, etc. Your essentually using fossil fuels to make ethanol to take the place of fossil fuels.....it just doesn't make sense. Plus, corn-based ethanol is not a sustainable long-term solution based upon the amount of energy extracted vs. the amount of energy required for production. Celluloise based ethanol is a better solution, but is still a ways off. Ethanol will probably get us through the next 5-10 years, it's an interium solution. After that, something else will need to take the place of fossil fuels & ethanol.

I don't have an answer for you, but hopefully someone else will.

I'd call the dealer back and ask. NGK's website also says to use the "5" heat range.

Bernie, Not sure if you got your question answered somewhere else. The transmissions do have a little more noise then some other manufacturers, but the noise shouldn't be too loud. The fact that it changes when you move the shifter would probably indicate to me something internally might be messed up, and yeah you may need a replacement at some time.

Guage might be bad.....or you may have head gasket issues. Unfortunately, it's common for that vintage of EJ25.

Not sure how many people you'll find on here from birmingham. You may want to try Nasioc as well, if you don't find anyone here.

I'm not sure you can go much bigger without rubbing

I loved that road. I never did the entire loop, but it was a short drive from Lake Stevens, and provided some nice twisty mtn. roads.

No I don't think so. The overseas ej20's had the IAC valve on the other side of the intake manifold.

Did the reader also clear the ECU memory? Did you recheck the ECU, and was the same code still there? It's possible the ECU was reset, and when it was reset, and getting the code, it didn't run optimally until the ECU relearned the operating conditions without the sensor. I'd recommend replacing the sensor and/or checking the wiring to make sure it's good, clear the code, and see how the car runs.

Hmmm....I think I may have misunderstood you. So you have a problem when the window is being "rolled" down correct? When the window is being put up, the window stops just fine? If so, I'd actually suspect/wonder if there is an issue at a certain spot in the gearing that is allowing the motor to continue to run and cause the clunking. I don't think electrical would cause what you're seeing.

Any dealer should be able to do that....?

Yeah....it's a labor of love, as I can tell you with all the stuff I've done. Getting an entire car is really the only way to go. Trying to piece-meal everything will take you forever. Most people just don't end up doing all the stuff needed to have a "complete" swap....so safety stuff doesn't work, cruise doesn't work, etc. Which is why I did my write-up...to show what all needed to be done. Josh

This is probably your issue http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?t=1142

I would guess they are the same, or similar enough to be swapable. I'd try giving your local subaru dealership a call to see if they can lookup the two part #'s & compare.

Most switches would stop when the current increases, ie the motor is not moving, but still trying to move. You may want to try and find a used switch at a junkyard and swap it.

That's good to know the sti & turbo leg up-pipe is identical. I am trying to get my hands on an sti up-pipe to make the comparison. But it sounds like they're the same. I'd still prefer an sti one, simply because it's newer then the used turbo leg's running around.