Turbone

Could be that the axle you got isnt in too good of shape. Make sure the axle nut is as tight as you can get it (150ftlbs)

Welcome to USMB. Did you see where the cable is supposed to attach to the trans? Its on the right side (passenger) of trans, you will see a hole where it threads into. Your shuddering could be due to the bad cv or it could be a tire out of balance. Cheaper to find out if the tire is balanced, then go from there. I dont think the clutch has anything to do with the shudder from take off as the axle swap did work for a short period.

Glad to see everything worked out.

Its part of the A/C mount, the bottom I believe.

Hey Torxx, you ever finish this? Got mine done a few years ago, you dont know what your missing!

Hopefully the hose connections are correct also

Pretty sure your right about it being knock sensor

Should work, did you compare the pics with yours?

That should be your only choice.

x2 to the above. Having a loose nut on the wheel may have also damaged the splines in the hub, which has happened to me before. Torque on the wheel nut should be around 150lbs+/-

Purge solenoid

If the clutch was on wrong you would not have been able to mate up the PP to the flywheel. Are the spring clips still attached to the lever and throwout bearing? Sometimes they will come loose during install. You may also need to adjust the cable nut so it has tension.

Dont rattlecan it, go plastidip. It can be peeled off later and then painted correctly with the color you want. https://www.dipyourcar.com/

Accel coils are notorious for failing within a year of use. I use a MSD on my Brat.

Yes,a coil can start to act dodgy for a while before going out. The car will run like crap and when the coil overheats, it will quit working and the car wont run. Then after it cools off it will start again. Wash, rinse, repeat.

Easiest way to reset the ECU is to disconnect the battery for 20min or so. What about the coil, done anything with that? I've had a few go out on me with EA81T's and EA82T's.

Instead of tearing things apart and throwing money at it, I would try timing it by ear. See if you can get rid of the backfire first, then make a few runs in it to fine tune it. Advance it till it starts to knock, then back it off 3-4deg. If this doesnt get rid of the miss/backfire, I would pull off the valve cover to #2 cyl and check the exhaust valve springs.

Sounds like a possible boost leak.

Whats your price range? I have a 02 Forester that I'm really getting to like. It gets 28mpg hiway and holds a ton of stuff.

Scroll down to the US spec 5MT. http://sl-i.net/FORUM/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=278

Please, lets follow the KISS principal here. The OP was only looking for resources for a clutch replacement, not engine rebuilds etc.

Screw it, I dont need to prove anything here.

You may have the fuel lines switched.

You have it wired in wrong then. The RFI cap has nothing to do with the running of the car. And I'm not laughing. If you want to volunteer info, please be sure its legit. Heres something I pulled off a Marine Engineer's site... http://www.dieselduck.net/machine/03%20electricity/radio_interference.htm I've had many old gen Subaru's that were missing caps or were disconnected. They all ran fine.

You cant be serious? The main purpose of this capacitor is to reduce the amount of signal noise to the radio. Thats it, nothing else.