Turbone

Legally, you cant junk a car here in WA without a title. But that doesnt mean its not possible. If you know the wrecker, he might take it and immediately crush it. But thats a worse case scenario. Hopefully the car will show up soon, in one piece.

Leave it be, Subaru said a long time ago that it was ok to run them that way. If they were bigger, they would need to be welded or pinned.

Caboobaroo is working on this right now in his 86 RX*. He's having problems finding the right setup for the x-member as his body style is a little different, it used to have a AT in it. He had to have a driveshaft made also.

I've seen and experienced mud before, but Bill........that takes the cake

Upgrading to XT6 swaybars helps a lot also.

My technique is to use my Makita cordless, a 3in buffer pad, a squirt bottle with water and a bottle of Griotts glass polish. It takes me 10min a light.

I think 96 was when it went to OBDII, I could be wrong tho. And it does have 2 02 sensors, one on each cat. I've never had to replace one, but I have removed the exhaust system before and know it can be a beotch. A good place to get accurate info is at http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/

Glad you had a uneventful trip, dont go and melt on us out there....alright?

Your just going to have to bite the bullet and do the 5 lug swap. That opens a big window for wheels/tires and suspension options.

New Yokohama skins for the RX. And a pair of XT6 seats also. Also had to replace the front crank seal on my Brat, it was puking oil badly. Fastest seal change I've ever done - 20min. Gotta luv the EA81

I think thats the same rear end that Qman had in his monster Brat, which also had a ARB airlocker installed.

Its not overheating, its just the timing isnt advancing to compensate for the extra load. It probably wouldnt hurt to drive it 60mi, just put some super in the tank. You can also retard the timing some temporarily.

I might have missed it, but I dont think theres any mention of a divorced t-case. Which he really really needs to do if he's going to all the trouble of a solid rear. Bill, your money would be better spent with a divorced t-case. You have the lift to do it and you know how well my hatch crawls. Plus its cheaper to upgrade the t-case than the tranny.

Yeah, not a good idea. PM me your addy and I can send a used one to you.

Tire size makes a big difference also. I have 185/70/14's on my Brat with a unknown year 5spd D/R. My rpm's run about 2.6k at 70mph.

2 brass L's, a nipple and a union, all 1/8" from Home Depot. Used teflon tape and theres no leaks. Its angled back into the corner so it will clear the alternator.

Its a direct swap on all of it, you should have no problems. Unless its all rusty

EA82T

You must be east of Hwy 18 I assume. Bonney Lk, WA. On the border of Hicksville and the City Slickers

I'm going to send you a scan of the EJ ECU pin outs, it might help a little. Oops, send me your email addy.

He said the seats came out of a 94. And Miles used to own it.

Regardless of what you think GD, the EA82T wasnt that bad a engine. Every EA82T that I ever had, had well over 100k on it. Show me another engine that was turbo'd with that kind of mileage. The reason everyone has a problem with them is they get them with high mileage, then beat the snot out of them and/or mod them.

If you need or want info on the stock engine, or the RX in general ask me. I've been thru about a 1/2 dozen of the engines I now have a EJ22T in the car.

No more knock since I changed the oil (just 300mi). I tried hunting down the leak today but couldnt see anything obvious. I may have a leaky HG :-\ I did replace the IAC and TPS, so hopefully my idle problem is fixed.

It just may be low on fluid, a LSD diff will act funny if low. If thats the only thing wrong with it, I would still buy it, they are easy to replace. You could always throw a open 3.7 rear diff in and drive it till you found a replacement LSD diff.